three 36" t-tracks by two 24" vertical t-tracks '3/4" wide' on 40"x28"x1.125" wood board 'mdf or blockboard or plywood'
bench dog holes size is 3/4" and are of two groups; dig holes are vertically spaced by 3" measured from the center of the middle t-track and are horizontally spaced by 5" for the sets near the tracks while the inner sets are horizontally spaced by 3"
use a fixed fence as miter as these dog holes give a lot of miter angles- some are absolute to numbers like '10, 12, 13 degrees' and some are true numbers like '45, 15, 22.25 degrees'
so dog hole that are horizontally spaces by 5" are vertically spaces by 6" across all the surface
@Packard thanks sir, i just liked to share , but i need to know if the thickness (1 1/8") is enough for dog holes or what is the thinkness needed and also if the holes should be drilled through all the thickness of the board/panel or just to a certain level of depth?
i have no bench and no bench dogs - i'll order later bench dogs from the net , but i want to make the bench by myself for clamping and miter cutting
You’ll need to modify your design slightly so that you can actually use the t-track. The ends need to be exposed so you can slide your clamps on the t-track.
I don’t understand your comments about the angles being built in. Can you elaborate?
In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
Festool makes a MFT bench (multi-function table). It has the dog holes similar to your. I made two tables using the MFT design for the top.
I used a peg board as a template with a Vix bit to make the guide holes and I used an auger style bit and a bushing to assure that my holes were vertical.
Despite all that, my holes vary in placement by probably 0.005" or 0.010". So if I make a fixture with two dogs attached, they will fit in some but not all the pairs of holes. I think you need a CNC router to get the perfect accuracy.
But for my work it is fine. The Festool clamps work with the 3/4" holes. My top is 3/4". My old WorkMate table also had a 3/4" thick top. But their plastic dogs are larger in diameter and do not fit the 3/4" dog holes.
If you are unsure of the design, then copying Festool's design is a safe bet. I copied the overall dimensions on the top and the hole geometry. I made the table base from 2" x 4" lumber. I made three separate tables. One is primarily an outfeed table for my table saw.
This looked like a "solution" in search of a problem when I first saw this post. I still can't imagine sawing into this carefully drilled top and messing it up. There are very fine clamps which work on miters. There are other means including simple painter's tape to hold the pieces in place until the glue sets. That's my impression. :vs_cool:
This looked like a "solution" in search of a problem when I first saw this post. I still can't imagine sawing into this carefully drilled top and messing it up. There are very fine clamps which work on miters. There are other means including simple painter's tape to hold the pieces in place until the glue sets. That's my impression. :vs_cool:
I agree. I have an old domestically produced version of this clamp that I got when I had my picture framing business. You can micro-adjust to perfect squareness. (I paid a lot more that this 30 years ago.)
You can buy a Festool top and build your table for it. Lee Valley sells a jig to drill holes that are accurate. If you have one of these you can drill your own holes.
thanks you a lot, really very helpful, i prefer to make it myself as a diy project .. it's more interesting and fun .. i'm not in the usa and shipments for heavy stuff is pricey .. woods like pine and mdf and blockwood are available at where i am for cheap if i can say .. such project wood cost a fraction compared to buying pre-made one although i like those from kreg and festools and some others but it's to avoid costs
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