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Discussion Starter #1
I understand the more teeth on a blade the smoother/better the cut. So why do you need blades that are 24 or 40 or etc teeth count? Why would you not just use a 60+ tooth blade on everything?
 

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I understand the more teeth on a blade the smoother/better the cut. So why do you need blades that are 24 or 40 or etc teeth count? Why would you not just use a 60+ tooth blade on everything?
Blades with a high number of teeth are better for cross-cutting than blades with a low number of teeth. They give a smoother cut, as you say.

BUT ... blades with a high number of teeth are TERRIBLE for rip cutting and should never be used for that. That's what low-tooth-count blades are for.
 

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where's my table saw?
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just like hand saws, they are specific

There are ripping blades with fewer, larger teeth and gullets, and crosscut blades with many smaller teeth and smaller gullets.
The 24 tooth blades clear out large bits of material with the grain, the 40 and 50 tooth blades can be used for both ripping and crosscutting and the 60 and 80 tooth blade give the smoothest cuts across the grain. There are even 96 tooth and 100 tooth blades.

Another difference is the way the teeth are ground and oriented which determines how smooth the cut will be.

The fewer teeth the blade has the better it can clear away and carry away the sawdust and that keeps the friction and heat down, an enemy of longevity in a saw blade. Gum and pitch building up on the teeth and the sides of the plate also will overheat a blade. Pine and other woods with lots of resin are notorious for gumming up blades. :yes:
 

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HAH ! Beat you to it :smile: (but your response is much more complete, so, OK ... it took you longer to type)

Oh, and one of the things we both forgot to tell the OP is that those middle-count blades you mentioned are often called, for the obvious reason, "combination blades"
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I am curios for a table saw for example do you guys generally go combo blades then vs swapping blades out? I am looking to get a table saw and just got from a neighbor a radial arm saw. My plan is to use the RAS primarily for cross cutting and table saw for ripping so now I know which blades to get for each. Thanks guys!!
 

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When looking for blades, table saw blades should be "positive hook" and radial arm saw blades should be "negative hook". For each, evaluate what you will be cutting and determine the best tooth count.

You don't have to measure one to tell if it's positive or negative. If you sight (or lay on a straight edge) from the center hole to a tooth, look at the angle of the face of the tooth...either it tips forward (positive) or it tips back(negative) from the line from the center hole. If it does neither, it's a zero hook angle.




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So I am curios for a table saw for example do you guys generally go combo blades then vs swapping blades out? I am looking to get a table saw and just got from a neighbor a radial arm saw. My plan is to use the RAS primarily for cross cutting and table saw for ripping so now I know which blades to get for each. Thanks guys!!
It's a matter of preference and circumstances. Given your scenario, I'd be more inclined to go with task specific blades.
 

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NY-woodworker said:
So I am curios for a table saw for example do you guys generally go combo blades then vs swapping blades out? I am looking to get a table saw and just got from a neighbor a radial arm saw. My plan is to use the RAS primarily for cross cutting and table saw for ripping so now I know which blades to get for each. Thanks guys!!
Never for finish work. I do have a 40 tooth combo I use to get close on sizes. But then I always swap to the correct blade for each finish cut.

By the way....lu91 Is the appropriate frued blade for the radial arm saw.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #13
Damn I love YouTube. I found a video on how to get your blade parallel to the miter and they explained it on my table saw! I will work on in tomorrow morning.
 

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NY-woodworker said:
ok guys I just picked up and installed a 40 tooth diablo blade http://t.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1040X/100055325/ It is NOT 100% parallel to the miter slot. the front part of the blade is SLIGHTLY angled to the left. Its noticable when manually spinning the blade, there is a visible wobble. I am guessing that it's not suppose to be like that right? How can I fix it?

That's my go to TS blade that is on my TS most of the time. I do have a 24 & 60 (I think) version that I use for ripping or laminants when needed. I'm very happy with Frued blades.

Mark
 

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ok guys I just picked up and installed a 40 tooth diablo blade

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1040X/100055325/

It is NOT 100% parallel to the miter slot. the front part of the blade is SLIGHTLY angled to the left. Its noticable when manually spinning the blade, there is a visible wobble. I am guessing that it's not suppose to be like that right? How can I fix it?
Wobbly and out of parallel are two different things, a blade should not wobble when put on the saw, solve that problem before making any other adjustments to your saw. Check your arbor, try another blade to see if you still have that problem before doing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wobbly and out of parallel are two different things, a blade should not wobble when put on the saw, solve that problem before making any other adjustments to your saw. Check your arbor, try another blade to see if you still have that problem before doing anything else.
The original blade that came with it had that slight wobble too. I was hoping it was the blade but when I put the new one on last night it still had the slight wobble.

This means it's probably the arbor right? What are my options?
 

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The original blade that came with it had that slight wobble too. I was hoping it was the blade but when I put the new one on last night it still had the slight wobble.

This means it's probably the arbor right? What are my options?
Check the collar on the arbor shaft to make sure there is nothing on it that is preventing blade to fit tight against it.

Check if the shaft is bent.

Those are about the only two possibilities that will cause a straight blade to wobble.
 

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Anyone know if Freud makes a circular/table saw blade combo pack? Or a company that sells multiple at a discount? I have my new saw coming in this week and would like to get a couple blades for my various cutting needs Adam
 

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Anyone know if Freud makes a circular/table saw blade combo pack? Or a company that sells multiple at a discount? I have my new saw coming in this week and would like to get a couple blades for my various cutting needs Adam
They don't AFAIK, but you can grab the Diablo blades pretty reasonably.
 

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knotscott said:
They don't AFAIK, but you can grab the Diablo blades pretty reasonably.
What are the difference between the two? They appear to be owned by the same company.

Sent from my iPad using Wood Forum
 
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