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I understand the more teeth on a blade the smoother/better the cut. So why do you need blades that are 24 or 40 or etc teeth count? Why would you not just use a 60+ tooth blade on everything?
Blades with a high number of teeth are better for cross-cutting than blades with a low number of teeth. They give a smoother cut, as you say.I understand the more teeth on a blade the smoother/better the cut. So why do you need blades that are 24 or 40 or etc teeth count? Why would you not just use a 60+ tooth blade on everything?
It's a matter of preference and circumstances. Given your scenario, I'd be more inclined to go with task specific blades.So I am curios for a table saw for example do you guys generally go combo blades then vs swapping blades out? I am looking to get a table saw and just got from a neighbor a radial arm saw. My plan is to use the RAS primarily for cross cutting and table saw for ripping so now I know which blades to get for each. Thanks guys!!
Never for finish work. I do have a 40 tooth combo I use to get close on sizes. But then I always swap to the correct blade for each finish cut.NY-woodworker said:So I am curios for a table saw for example do you guys generally go combo blades then vs swapping blades out? I am looking to get a table saw and just got from a neighbor a radial arm saw. My plan is to use the RAS primarily for cross cutting and table saw for ripping so now I know which blades to get for each. Thanks guys!!
NY-woodworker said:ok guys I just picked up and installed a 40 tooth diablo blade http://t.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1040X/100055325/ It is NOT 100% parallel to the miter slot. the front part of the blade is SLIGHTLY angled to the left. Its noticable when manually spinning the blade, there is a visible wobble. I am guessing that it's not suppose to be like that right? How can I fix it?
Wobbly and out of parallel are two different things, a blade should not wobble when put on the saw, solve that problem before making any other adjustments to your saw. Check your arbor, try another blade to see if you still have that problem before doing anything else.ok guys I just picked up and installed a 40 tooth diablo blade
http://t.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-Carbide-Circular-Saw-Blade-D1040X/100055325/
It is NOT 100% parallel to the miter slot. the front part of the blade is SLIGHTLY angled to the left. Its noticable when manually spinning the blade, there is a visible wobble. I am guessing that it's not suppose to be like that right? How can I fix it?
The original blade that came with it had that slight wobble too. I was hoping it was the blade but when I put the new one on last night it still had the slight wobble.Wobbly and out of parallel are two different things, a blade should not wobble when put on the saw, solve that problem before making any other adjustments to your saw. Check your arbor, try another blade to see if you still have that problem before doing anything else.
Check the collar on the arbor shaft to make sure there is nothing on it that is preventing blade to fit tight against it.The original blade that came with it had that slight wobble too. I was hoping it was the blade but when I put the new one on last night it still had the slight wobble.
This means it's probably the arbor right? What are my options?
They don't AFAIK, but you can grab the Diablo blades pretty reasonably.Anyone know if Freud makes a circular/table saw blade combo pack? Or a company that sells multiple at a discount? I have my new saw coming in this week and would like to get a couple blades for my various cutting needs Adam
What are the difference between the two? They appear to be owned by the same company.knotscott said:They don't AFAIK, but you can grab the Diablo blades pretty reasonably.