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Discussion Starter #1
August 29, 2009:

I have a numbe of chisels that are now blunt. I am seeking help re the equipment needed and technique of sharpening.

I do have a sharpening stone (but no oil). I do not have a power driven grinder. I do have a Dremel, but I am not sure that the Dremel is useful for this.

I woudl welcome advice on thsi topic.

Thak you;
:smile:
Angus
 

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KEEP THE DREMEL AWAY FROM YER CHISELS!!!!!! Whew....glass plate and some 400-600-1000-1500 grit paper. Werks fer me. Oh yeah, a honing guide wouldn't hurt either. Don't judge.:thumbsup: They work.
 

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The previous is absolutely right. You should understand the difference between sharpening and honing though. If you chisles have nicks in the edge and need to be ground off flat and resharpened the paper won't work very well. That is mostly for honing. Shapening you need more stuff. You don't need to sharpen very often if you take care of your edges. You just hone it. There is probly a sharpening shop around that will charge you a couple bucks each to put a new edge on your chisels. If you can hone them that is most likely the best way to go. Sharpening can be quite frustrating - stay away from high speed grinding wheels! They can burn your edge. If the edge burns it changes the temper of the steel and you have to start all over again.
 

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There's a zillion articals in a zillion magazines that have a zillion websites...google IS yer friend.:yes:
 

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johnep
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Someone (Corndog?) here posted a sharpening angle chart which I have saved and printed out various sections which I find very useful. I use a bench grinder ( $25) to get the the first angle (30 degree) on the chisel, then hone on wet and dry on glass or laminate to get 25 degree. Finally using 600 grit or more to take off the burr.

For garden shears etc where cannot use grinder, then use diamond sharpener 30 degree angle.

johnep
 

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August 29, 2009:

I have a numbe of chisels that are now blunt. I am seeking help re the equipment needed and technique of sharpening.

I do have a sharpening stone (but no oil). I do not have a power driven grinder. I do have a Dremel, but I am not sure that the Dremel is useful for this.

I woudl welcome advice on thsi topic.

Thak you;
:smile:
Angus

I have had very good results with this method...
http://www.woodworkstuff.net/scary.html
 

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johnep
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Right, I'm off to the motor shop to get the full range of wet and dry and try this system of working through the grits. Have not seen 1200 and 2000 grades before. Used to use something called 'flour paper' about 60 years ago.
johnep
 

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about sharpening

angus mclean what i do is grind all my chiesl an hand planer blades an i do what is alled hollow grind them then i hone the on a combonation oil or water stone . One side is 600 an the other 1200 or 1400 grit an then i strop on a piece of leather 3 or 4 times an all my blades and chiesl are razor sharp. After i do that then all i need to do is hone every once and a while when they need it . For me this works well wish you well.
 

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Lose the Dremel tool , lose the 8 inch grinder, lose the other sharpening tools and go the scary sharp route and you will immediately tell the difference...new chisels out of the box also need scary sharp as they simply are not...sharp....a sharp chisel is a true joy...all others are abominations....
 

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tool snob
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Step away from the Dremel! Stay away from grinding wheels. they will heat your chisels and never be the same. I do the same technique as scary sharp but use water stones. No need to put a mirror finish on it as you will eventually chip your chisel on a knot or something. I just put a smooth polish on them. A truly flat back is impotant. Don't buy the $10 guide, invest in the Veritas, as the 1/2" roller tends to tip over alot. Keeping a nice edge on your chisels by occasionally honing them is better than spending a half day on the whole set.
 
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