Hello coyote. I have very limited experience with jointers compared to others here since i do not use them, and we don't have much Cherry here in Texas either so I can't offer any advice, but I wanted to say howdy and welcome!
Someone will be along to help you soon. Hope you hang around a while and check back for answers. Be sure to select "Instant e-mail notification" so you don't forget like I do.
Is the problem- the jointer flattens a face, you plane the board to thickness,, then the board cups/twists ?
- then, could be a few things:
-wood has high mc.
-Stress in the board (improper drying, or juvenile tree lumber)
-Unevenly removing wood from 1 face of a board. (seldom happens but it is possible on some cuts/slices of tree)
-double check that your initial machining flattened the face (jointer not set up right)
or you are trying to flatten the face of a board with your jointer and not getting good results.
my guess is the top problem.
This is normal for Cherry. Jedo has the right advice, go with the grain. Also go slower with your passes. If you use Cherry exclusively or just a lot, you could have your knives ground with less of a point, maybe at 40-45º instead of the normal 35º. This will help with the chipout, but increase the drag over the knives. It will work with a lot of the chip prone hardwoods.
Cherry, Maple, figured woods all seem to have the same issues. All of the advise you have been given is good advice. I find that it is easier for me to use the jointer to assure a straight edge then I skim saw using a good glue-line rip saw blade on my table saw. I make sure I use a good fluid motion so as not to pause on the pass through and I glue.
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