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Splinters
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Discussion Starter #1
I've always used pine for my woodworking projects, but have always wanted to use some cherry. Well, I finally did, but not sure how to finish it. I really want to bring out the beauty of it, but not sure how. The only finishes I have ever used is Min-Wax Stains and Polyurethanes.

As always I really appreciate the help I get from this forum. It always seems to make my projects more interesting and enjoyable.
 

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Try using an oil finish such a Minwax Antique Oil. Have used it extensively on cherry. Really brings out the color and grain. 2 coats, hand rubber will serve you well. good luck.
 

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I use Danish oil on most of my projects. Many others prefer BLO also. Cherry is somewhat unique in that it will darken to an even better tone with age, so I would advise against any type of stain. Any clear top coating you like would work well
 

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I agree....I wouldn't use any stain on Cherry. Pick your choice to seal it but I'd make sure to only use a clear product. Cherry will darken by itself quick enough.

I personally like the look of General Finishes water based poly with a satin finish.

Good luck.
 

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On my last cherry project I applied one light coat of dewaxed shellac and 5 coats of waterlox. I really like the finish result and yes, cherry is getting darker with time.
 

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Cherry is bad to darken from sunlight. Kwick Kleen makes a product called Sun Block which would retard the darkening process as much as possible. Then you could stain and finish it with any finish you choose. The type of finish would vary depending on the application.
 

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I have used cherry quite a bit. As others have stated, cherry is very difficult to stain, it blotches very easily when you stain it because the softer portions of the wood absorb the stain faster than the harder portions of the wood. The key to staining cherry is to lay down a barrier coat which prevents fast absorption of the stain. This can be done with spraying if you mix a high (75%) mix of lacquer with your stain. This will allow the stain to lay on the surface rather than penetrate the wood. The lacquer, because it dries very fast, will prevent the fast absorption. The other way to do it is to simply spray a coat of sealer down before you apply any stain and let it set.

Good luck.
Ed
 

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The advice from the others is good - I'll add that you must be aware of the difference between the sapwood and the heartwood. The heartwood will darken very beautifully, but the sapwood won't. If you build something with both woods visible, what starts as a subtle color difference will turn into a glaring mistake. IMO.
 

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No way to give you appropriate advice without knowing what the item is and what abuse it will take. Different situations call for different finishes.
 

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Splinters
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks so much for all the replays and advice. I did decide to use the Min-Wax Antique Oil. I just gave it it's first coat and buffed it. Tomorrow I will do a second coat and the next day, a final coat. After that is done, am I supposed to use a polyurethane..?

The piece I am making is a small item. It is a weather station that will hold a clock, barometer, hygrometer and an Admiral Fitzroy Storm Predictor and aAdmiral Fitzroy Temperature tube. I will post a picture of it once I am done with the finish and installing the gauges....
 
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