Woodworking Talk banner
21 - 40 of 44 Posts

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Looks good 馃憤
Soooo.... Why isn't it done yet? 馃槄
They are going to so pleased with that.
Probably because I keep taking pictures and making all these posts.
 

where's my table saw?
Joined
33,058 Posts
Leo, I've been following your work for 15 years since I joined, and it's always phenomenal!
Great photo story of this build as well!
You are truly a Master woodworker. My neighbor down the road, is a custom door maker and I've helped out in his "one man shop" a few times when he was making very large doors for churches, 4 ft X 10 ft, some with arched tops and frames. They are incredible pieces of work and very heavy. Just making the bending form is a project unto itself. I know what it take to make them and you have my total respect!
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Smith_inFL

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks guys. I'm in the home run now but it's still a lot of work to go. All the heavy lifting is done, the major items are all made now. I still need to put the curve on the top outside of the door. I ordered a flush cut router bit and it took forever getting to my shop so I put it off. Still have to mortise the hinges on the door and the jamb, order the glass, finish making the beaded stops to hold the glass in. The lengths are made but the miters need to be cut. On the curved window the curved beads are made and the 2 outside windows have been cut to length, the center today and I need to cope the straight sections onto them. Not even going to try to miter them. Need to make the stops for the door and windows and attach them. And the the huge job of putting a stain on it and a clear.

The door is QSRO and will be stained like this
Brown Wood Pattern Brick Soil


The rest of the door is normal red oak and will be stained to match color.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Had to cut out the beads in the back of the window so glass can be inserted. Used a series of router bits and the last was a 1/4"D flush cut bit. Then I had to use my patters again and create the curved beads, cut them off the edge of the wood with my bandsaw and then sand them as close as I could to the correct radius. It was shown in an earlier post. The curves are just cut so they fit into the opening, butting the ends and the straight pcs were coped to fit over the curves.

Wood Triangle Picture frame Rectangle Pattern


Wood Wood stain Varnish Plank Hardwood
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Fit the door today. Weird issues. Door is square, opening is square, reveals were equal and yet the hinge side of the top of the door was at 3/32" and the other side was close to a 1/4". Pulling the frame only moved it a little, maybe a 1/16". So I already know that 3/32" reveals are tight. I did that because I can always make the door smaller. So I took 1/32" off the hinge side, did a cut on the curve from the hinge side to the center of the door and beveled the latch side. Now when I tweak the frame a bit all the reveals are about an 1/8" Phew. Still don't know what the F is going on. But when it's installed I'll put a little pressure on the hinge side of the jamb and things will be perfect.

Anywho....

Door Cabinetry Wood Fixture Wood stain


Building Door Fixture Wood Window


Working on copying my schedule for finishing which I made a sample. Having a rough time getting it the same as the sample. I'll figure it out.
 

Registered
mechanical engineering
Joined
665 Posts
@Leo G

what a fantastic Journey you've taken us through on this custom built door.

it proves they're still real Craftsman out there doing real custom work.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Fun is. Three coats of Dark Oak Dye. Then scuff it hard. Then three coats of the dye. And scuff it hard again. Then..... three coats of dye, and scuff it hard again.

Then the stain. Let it sit on the door for 1 minute and 45 seconds and wipe it off. Took me about 10 samples to figure that out. Really nerve racking to do all of this to the door and not be able to know if you got the right color until about 6 hours later, which is about how long it took to develop this color and make the flecks and rays in the QSRO pop. It's a satin finish but wet when I took the picture. I wanted to go home.

Here it is after the three coats of three coats of dye
Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Beige


The dye dries almost instantly. I scuff it because the flecks and rays don't absorb the dye as well as the surrounding wood. So that will highlight them.

Then I applied the stain. And like I said 1 minute 45 seconds. I set my timer and start staining. When it goes off it's time to remove what I put on. In my case I was able to do the top panel and the 2 side bevels. Wiped it off. Then I finished the panel up by doing the top and bottom bevels which are treated differently. They are wipe on and wipe off. End grain absorbs the stain quick and if you let it stay on too long it'll get very dark. Then I did the bottom panel and had time to do the end bevels. Then I did the frame of the door. After the stain dries for 20 minutes I scuff it with 220 grit just so the flecks and rays lighten up while the surrounding wood only gets slightly lighter.
Wood Rectangle Table Flooring Hardwood


A coat of Satin clear and I'm ready to do the other side.

Which will take just as long.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Always love trying to match colors - NOT. This is about the 6th try that counted. I did some others that weren't even close, trying to get a one step process.

The camera screws things up. The center color is the closest. On the horizontal picture it looks like the one to the left is closer, but in reality the colors swapped. The center one is a bit dark when seen by eye. I'm not sure if I want to shorten the soak time of the stain or decrease the amount of dye I put in it.
Wood Rectangle Beige Flooring Wood stain




In this picture the center sample looks really close. You can see how the camera distorts the color compared to the 1st shot. This is more what they look like to my eye.
Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Wood stain




Either way I'll be doing several more tries. And after I find that magic formula I'll be doing several more trials to make sure I can get a consistent result and it wasn't by fluke or luck I got the right color.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Actually no issues so far. It's just time consuming. Kinda nerve racking that I have to go through all that and can only see the real color after the clear is on. By then it's way to late to do something. But so far the matches have been damn good.

I plan on making the match of the rest of the doorway go the same way.


Like I can control wood LOL
 

Super Moderator
Joined
4,550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Man this took a while. Been playing with this for nearly 2 days trying to figure out a formula to get the plain sawn red oak to match the QSRO stain. It's not easy because the woods are very different from each other. Using the same schedule didn't work. I was hoping to get an out of the can solution but I couldn't find a mixture that would work. I made trouble for myself because I sanded the stain a bit to remove it from the flecks and rays and that imparted a peach coloration in the color. And that's been the problem. The regular OK won't get dark enough and still have that peach tone to it.

So today I went to my color guy and picked up the batch of dye and stain I'd need to complete the finishing of the doorway and windows. Still didn't have a formula or finishing schedule to do it. I asked him what I could do to have a stain that had a peach or pink overtone. He thought a bit and said try mixing some yellow and orange dyes together. He gave me 3 ounces of each.

I mixed one cap full of each into 10 oz of stain base. Whoa.... That's a pretty bright color. And I added another 15 oz of stain base to it and that muted it a lot.

So I tried a schedule of

Dark Oak dye, scuff with 150. That lightens the flat areas while leaving the recessed grain alone, keeping it darker.

Then I do a second round of the Dark Oak dye and scuff again.

Since it dries in under a couple minutes I put on the stain and leave it for 1:45 minutes and wipe it off. Trying to get to a certain darkness and each pc of wood is different so I rely on my eye to determine how much to wipe to get to the right darkness.

After the stain has been wiped down I wait about a minute and apply the "peach" stain and wipe it immediately.

Then I wait 20-25 minutes and use 220 grit to very lightly scuff the color. Then clear coat. It's a very good match, not perfect mind you. But I can't see me getting it any closer with such different graining of the different Oaks.
Furniture Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
Top