I have been watching a few videos of turning with carbide tip tools. Do any of you fellows have these tools? How do you like them? What are the bar stock made of, cold roll steel or other?
Alloy steel is a better choice over cold rolled, but cold rolled may work for you. I have both types of shank materials in my tool arsenal.What are the bar stock made of, cold roll steel or other?
Your tools look great to me, I appreciate the information.Alloy steel is a better choice over cold rolled, but cold rolled may work for you. I have both types of shank materials in my tool arsenal.
Cost issue is variable depending on where one decides to purchase. Amazon has many choices, one of which is; Wood Turning Tools Rougher Carbide Tipped Lathe Chisel Tool Bar 19.68 Inches With 14mm Straigt Edge Square Carbide Insert for Wood Hobbyist or DIY or Carpenter - - Amazon.com
Scroll down on the Amazon page and you can add two more tools to complete the set.
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Another option is set of tools with only one handle. Easy enough to make a wood handle for each tool to eliminate the need to change the handle from tool to tool. BEAMNOVA Carbide Tipped Wood Turning Tool Set Wood Lathe Tools and Accessories Boring Bar Holder with Indexable Carbide Inserts Replaceable Tips Woodworking Detailer Hollower Rougher - - Amazon.com
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The best (cheapest priced) source I have found for inserts is by ordering from E-bay sellers. Specifically; xttdesign on eBay They usually have a much wider selection of insert sizes than what is currently being shown. Buying in packs of 10 inserts keeps the cost per insert quite reasonable. Typically $2.00 to $2.60 each depending on size and style.
Some tools which I made myself using cold rolled bar stock.
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This is some good information, I really do appreciate it. I have had good luck using a scrapper, so looks like I will be making a couple of these carbide tools. I am excited to get back in the shop and give it a try as soon as the effects of this last virus shot lets up on me.Carbide tipped turning tools were originally designed and expected to be used as scrapers, not cutters.
When you use a cutting tool, you generally ride the bevel, then raise the handle until the sharp edge of the tool cuts fine ribbons of wood from your turning. The general consensus is that you will get a smooth, sanding-not-needed surface with this approach.
With carbide tipped tools, you generally approach the turning at the mid-point with the tip presented horizontally (flat) to the turning. The tip scrapes shavings and sawdust from your turning. This approach may leave a rougher surface that needs touch-up sanding.
Some people use carbide tipped tools as cutters, but it is less common. I do that sometimes, and carbide tips can yield some amazing ribbons.
Carbide is durable. It starts out sharp. For me carbide spends the bulk of its time where it is "not ideal, sharp enough to cut, but not quite dull enough to replace yet."
High speed steel can be sharpened to be sharper than carbide, but it won't hold its edge as long as carbide before resharpening is needed.
IMHO carbide and traditional tools each have their place. Many bowls have been turned using only carbide tools. Using both types of tools builds a greater understanding of which tool to use for a specific task.Tony brought up a point I hadn't thought about. If these tips are harder to use than regular HHS tools, maybe I should not try to make some of them. I am really struggling with turning, I just can't get the hang of it.
Thanks Dave, I saw one fellows carbide square tool where the tip was sitting at a angle instead of square. I thought to myself he needed to make a stop to keep the tip square. I had planned to make the stop at the same angle as the tip underside, but square like in your illustration will be much easier. Thanks again, that is very helpful.IMHO carbide and traditional tools each have their place. Many bowls have been turned using only carbide tools. Using both types of tools builds a greater understanding of which tool to use for a specific task.
Just a couple details on insert support should you decide to make you own shanks.
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Thanks, that is good to know. I was worried that some of the bar might bend. I will post when I get them finished. I am sure I ill have more questions.If youre making your own tools, dont sweat what steel you use, honestly its all the same for this application. Bout the only benefit youll get from using something like 4140ph over 1018 (mild) steel is the 4140 wont scratch if you drop your tool. Changing the alloy of steel doesnt noticeably change the elasticity, you wont get a stiffer tool by going with one over another. You will change how far you can deflect the steel before it goes into plastic deformation, but if your tools are going in plastic deformation modes while youre turning you seriously ****ed up and probably broke your lathe anyways
So long as the bar is thick enough to handle the regular forces of use, nothing to worry about. If you bend a 3/8" bar of mild steel while turning, like i said, your lathe and possibly you are already deadThanks, that is good to know. I was worried that some of the bar might bend. I will post when I get them finished. I am sure I ill have more questions.