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where's my table saw?
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Not every woodworker can afford a decent HVLP gun and a compressor with enough CFMs, so why not use spray cans?
I often use a spray can in lacquer or a fast dry poly for a top coat when I think it will do the job.
The secret I've found is to have good lighting so you can read the wet layers as you lay them down and overlap them. I
I used some self -etching primer by Rustoleum and a Duplicolor Chrysler Red Engine enamel for this Coleman cooler refurb. The bottom was just Rustoleum Gloss White. Lots of lacquer putty to fill the scratches and small dents.
You can see in the reflections showing it came out very smooth, no runs or orange peel:
 

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mike44
retired carpenter and farmer
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Not every woodworker can afford a decent HVLP gun and a compressor with enough CFMs, so why not use spray cans?
I often use a spray can in lacquer or a fast dry poly for a top coat when I think it will do the job.
The secret I've found is to have good lighting so you can read the wet layers as you lay them down and overlap them. I
I used some self -etching primer by Rustoleum and a Duplicolor Chrysler Red Engine enamel for this Coleman cooler refurb. The bottom was just Rustoleum Gloss White. Lots of lacquer putty to fill the scratches and small dents.
You can see in the reflections showing it came out very smooth, no runs or orange peel:
If I have a small project that needs a finish i will use a spray can. I have sprayed shellac, lacquer, and enamel.
No problems with a spray can. I usually pull the nozzle off and let it sit in the solvent for the particular finish. I only leave it in the solvent for a couple of minutes. Then blow it out with compressed air. Keeps the nozzle clean .
mike
 

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Not every woodworker can afford a decent HVLP gun and a compressor with enough CFMs, so why not use spray cans?
I often use a spray can in lacquer or a fast dry poly for a top coat when I think it will do the job.
The secret I've found is to have good lighting so you can read the wet layers as you lay them down and overlap them. I
I used some self -etching primer by Rustoleum and a Duplicolor Chrysler Red Engine enamel for this Coleman cooler refurb. The bottom was just Rustoleum Gloss White. Lots of lacquer putty to fill the scratches and small dents.
You can see in the reflections showing it came out very smooth, no runs or orange peel:
I just used Rustoleum to paint a heater cover and was also quite pleased at the professional looking result...I did have a couple small flies that kept it from being perfect...but yeah...pleased.
 

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Egg Spurt
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Nice overlapping there W&T.. I sprayed a ton over the years both with rattle cans and spray rigs.. Keep the spray parallel, one row then half way down for the next and so on..just keep connecting the dots..
 

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There are some decent airless sprayers out there. I've never tried any of them, but what I've read I would definitely throw $150 into one.

 

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mike44
retired carpenter and farmer
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There are some decent airless sprayers out there. I've never tried any of them, but what I've read I would definitely throw $150 into one.

I had thought an airless sprayer was for latex paint. The specs on the sprayer you show look impressive. I agree that $150.00 is worth a try. I had an airless sprayer a long time ago. Used it to paint a picket fence. Haven't seen it since.
Best I can say for that sprayer , it was cheap.
mike
 

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I use rattle cans all the time for small jobs. So much easier to clean than a gun and it stores almost indefinitely. I just make sure I get the cans with valves that fan out the spray, not that spray a circle.
I have known people that use airless guns for finishing. they just switch to a smaller nozzle, maybe from a 17 (17/1000 inches) to a 9 or 12. It's just another way to get a finish on a surface. I've never tried it, nor seen my one friend's work who did it.
 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice overlapping there W&T.. I sprayed a ton over the years both with rattle cans and spray rigs.. Keep the spray parallel, one row then half way down for the next and so on..just keep connecting the dots..
Dots, well maybe stripes?
You gotta have the right light to be able to see where you've been so you can overlap your "stripes".
A long florescent tube light works good, or spray outside in the shade. That's where this cooler was sprayed.
I must have over 50 cans of spray paint that I've collected over the years. I invert them every so often to keep them from settling out.
It doesn't work all the time, but it helps.
In the last year, I discovered the best $50.00 deal on Amazon! It's a spray can shaker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VYVW1BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=

It will revive cans that won't spray and at $8.00 per can it's paid for itself a few times over.
I also save any nozzles from empty cans in case one clogs up, and they often do.
I soak them overnight in a small metal can filled with lacquer thinner, then blow them out with 125 psi compressor air,
I think the cans themselves are only pressurized to 150 psi, but not certain, saw it on You Tube.

I've also sprayed a few cars and truck in my lifetime with a pressure feed spray gun and a gravity feed gun for repairs.
Everything from a Porsche to a Suburban. I painted the hood on my Restoration Project, notice the reflections:
 

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Egg Spurt
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You know when a shiny surface gets REALLY shiny? Wet sand it down with like 4000 grit and buff it out so you can see the reflection of birds way up in the sky like you're looking directly at them.. I HATE HATE HATE wet sanding, but it's the one task I got really good at when I first started bodywork.. Then got better at buffing...
That was the beginning of my painting career..the designated wet sander.. BLEH! LOL
Even though I quit autobody about 15 years ago I still walk through a parking lot full of cars and can pick out every repair job..it always leaves a tell tale sign..Very few bodyshops repaint the entire car if they can avoid it..
 
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You did an awesome job on that cooler! Rattle cans are fine, you are just limited to spraying what you can get in a rattle can. I use them when I do not feel like cleaning a spray gun. They make many more finishes now. We even carry most of Mohawks pre-cats in rattle cans for cabinet touch ups. They burn in perfectly. In my shop I use a 4 stage turbine, which is heads over the HVLP conversion gun I was running off my compressor. The transfer rate has got to be around 90%. No vapors in the air or residual dust in my shop at all. They pay for themselves in what you save blowing finish into the air.
 
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