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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This plane is 14" x 2 3/8" wide. It has a few markings like "Made is USA" on the front of the sole and on the blade.


It also has a "U" on the frog and cap iron.


There are also these marks inside the sole.


Any way to get any information on this? Thanks very much.
 

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It can be identified - it is your plane. :laughing:

Sorry I could not resist.

So many of the manufacturers made planes for other companies, other brands, etc.

There are hints but not definitive for me.

The lateral adjustment lever looks like Sargent.

The tote looks like classic "Craftsman" based on the flat sides and lack or toe screw.

Lack of frog adjustment screw is not definitive.

I think this is a no-name plane manufactured for e.g., a hardware store or some other company to sell at lower price than the name brands.
 

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I'm going to agree with a defiance. They were a cheaper line made by Stanley and as far as I know the only one with the half bent over lat adjuster. The flat side on the tote is another contributing factor. That probably had a sticker on the tote that fell off years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank You Don. I don't like to sand so as a new woodworker I thought I would get a plane to do some primary smoothing.....but I couldn't figure out why I kept getting outbid on eBay, even on the old rusty, clunky looking ones.....after a few days of plane research I get it now.......:laughing:....now I'm worried about getting "hooked" myself! Dave
 

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I'm going to agree with a defiance. They were a cheaper line made by Stanley and as far as I know the only one with the half bent over lat adjuster. The flat side on the tote is another contributing factor. That probably had a sticker on the tote that fell off years ago.
I had a Fulton with a bent over lateral but the iron was stamped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, after reading Don's blog about restoring these old planes I got all confident and inspired and plunked the iron stuff in an electrolysis bath. I figured if I was going to use it I should get it in the best shape I can. The two painted pieces didn't look too bad so I am just going to scrub them up and flatten them. The knob was easy using Don's method but the bigger handle at the back isn't any fun at all........what is that purple/red finish anyway. ? I'm committed to striping the wood now though so have to get it done and come up with a finish of some sort. How ever it goes I like doing stuff like this, and if I end up with a usable plane I've made progress and had some fun to boot.
 

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what is that purple/red finish anyway. ? I'm committed to striping the wood now though so have to get it done and come up with a finish of some sort.
As you are observing, some planes have knob and tote painted rather than stain + finish.

Removing the existing paint or finish is not easy. I frequently end up making a replacement knob and / or tote.

It will be difficult to get the tote back to bare wood without losing some of the shape.

Good luck. Good to see you are trying a restoration. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don Yep, a pain describes it pretty well.

Dave You are certainly correct about losing the shape if too aggressive with the sanding. At this point I have my sights set on getting it smooth and just painting both wood parts.

Thanks to all for the comments
 

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Have any of you guys tried using a chemical stripper & soft bristled brass detail brush to strip knobs & totes?
 

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Have any of you guys tried using a chemical stripper & soft bristled brass detail brush to strip knobs & totes?
I use a chemical stripper and then a sanding mop.

I have two water based strippers.

Ready Strip. Home Depot or other local hardware stores.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ready-St...entally-Friendly-65832/100665911#.UiIzBH9gvYU

SOY gel at Woodcraft.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2083445/34092/SOY-Gel-Professional-Paint-Stripper-Quart.aspx

I normally use the Ready Strip since it is less expensive.

Sanding mop for irregular surfaces.
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36999/

The mop works reasonably well. I would be concerned with a brass wire brush, it may take off too much wood.

The strippers need to have the paint/stain scraped off. They soften the finish. This goes easy.

The challenge is that even with stripping and sanding, any dings will still show the finish, and it is very difficult to remove the stain without taking off too much wood in the sanding step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Electrolysis.....Black Magic

Magic because the rust just goes away but the down side is the black residue that's left behind. It is worth dealing with though. I rinsed the metal parts off in clean water and then put them in white vinegar and scrubbed them with a Scotch-Brite pad and it came off rather easily, I was worried for nothing it turns out. Then I took Never-Dull to them, it really didn't remove much more of anything but I feel it leaves a protective coating on the metal.


I'm not calling these done yet, this is how they look at this stage. The yellow caste must come from incandescent lighting. Tomorrow I'll run them over the buffer to smarten them up some more. The previously untried rust removal by electrolysis will now be known to me as "Step 1" . Compare this pic to the pics in the 1st post. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, so clean-up of this plane is going along nicely and now I'm trying to figure out the best way to finish the wood. Painting is an option I guess but I'm not real inclined to do that. I got most of the purple/red stuff off but am wondering if any of the "plane people" out there have any favorite ways to make these wood pieces look nice again or should I keep sanding?

 

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I'd hit it with a few coat of dark Danish oil. Then some BLO then wax. If you want to shine it up some, skip the wax and do some 3-2-1 or straight shellac. (I would stop at the BLO/wax, but I don't care for the shine on my tools)
 
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