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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I really have enjoyed reading this forum and wanted some advice.

I was setting up my miter saw (Harbor freight 10in sliding, I know its cheap but its all I can afford now, and this is a hobby) and after alot of adjusting of the fence (which I think was not machined 100% straight) I finally got it square to the blade on both sides (checking with an accurate combination square) and square to each other across the length of the fence (with a strait edge level, this is a single piece fence), this was more challenging, and sealed the bolts with threadlock. Checked the blade bevel and was dead on out of the box. Next I checked the cut/miter gauge with the following method
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/
I finally got the saw on point, however a true zero is a little to the right of the detent/automatic stop. This is annoying because I can not easily shift to my true zero because it is not in the automatic stop/detent. Anyone else with this problem? Any advice on what I should do? The miter gauge/scale is not adjustable you can just move the pointer. Thanks for any help.
 

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It sounds like you need to lock it in the detent and then adjust the fence.

Can you lock into positions other than the detents?

Are there shims/washers that could be added or removed to move the detent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The pointer can be adjusted, but I will take your advice and recalibrate it in the detent. There is alot of play in the detent so I will push it al the way to the right and lock it down, recalibrate the fence and try again. What tools do you all use to check the fence I am using an empire adjustable 12 in combination square. Should I get a drafing triangle? Also does it matter if you adjust the bevel before squaring to fence, or can you do it after? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok so here is an update, as I said this is a one piece fence, I got the bevel dead on at 90 and 45 (did it with a digtal angle guide and checked with the combination square). I can get the fence square to the blade on both sides, however I cant get the whole fence straight, take a look at the following pictures,
the first is left fence square to blade, the next is right fence square to blade. Each fence by itself is square with a strait edge, but as you see in the last 2 pictures there is a gap when a strait edge is put across the entire fence. I think this is due to the fence being machined poorly, is there any solution> Thanks for any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I figured it out, what I eventually did was square the blade to the left side of the fence and locked down the bolts tight, I then took a straight edge level and placed it across the entire fence, and positioned the right side of the fence, and locked down the third bolt (middle right), I then used a clamp to pull the edge of the right fence to bend it in place (took multiple attempts as there is not a great place to clamp onto) and locked the 4th bolt down. I rechecked the left fence for square to blade and it was still on, and there was no (or very little) play in the strait edge across the entire fence. I then cut a piece of 1x4 and flipped the cut end over and there was no gap. I also cut a 8 inch piece of plywood and took the calipers to the off cut and it was within 2 thousandths of an inch, so I am happy. Hopefully it will stay square for the near future. It was a pain, but got it done.
 

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yeah, that gap looks big enough to cause the lumber to rock and give
problems. Can't really think of a solution other than seeing if you can
get Harbor Freight to exchange it.

Seems like any kind of shim would be more trouble than its worth. Not really familar with the fence alignment process on that saw so not much help to give.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea thought about taking it back until I got it fixed. I have heard of people tring to bend fences, dont think I could pull that off. The problem with taking it back is not that they wont, it is that I already have a new blade and laser mount put in on the saw and am too lazy to take it all out and do it over again, especially when I get the new saw I am 50% sure it will be manufactured the same way with a slight bend but who knows. In hindsight that may of been worth it rather than spend 2 days trying to calibrate the fence. :furious:

I also am interested in making a sacrifical fence out of hardboard (1/4 in or 1/2 in), and clamping it to the fence or using carpet tape, I guess if something is a little out of line I could shim behind it untill it is absolutely perfect and on the bright side I would have a really accurate mark for my kerf on cuts.
Thanks
 
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