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Really underground garage
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took some time this afternoon.........this is exactly 12 minutes worth.To include finding the 5/8" SHC,and then chucking/facing/beveling on lathe.Tigged on.

The vise was on welding rack,inventory...it adjusts for whatever tooth bevel.The vise is bolted to adjustable,square ways.It's also adjustable for amt of "drag".

In operation,there will be a pin that locates gullets.You setup blade @desired pitch or bevel...then it will lock into the gullet pin.Next tooth sees you backing off...index blade...shove it back into pin.

Now,you can use the pin as a stop,which is neat because it'll serve two functions....pretty good for a threaded bolt?

Got maybe 5 minutes of thought into this.....told you it was pretty simple.Shall I continue or have you got it figured out yet?
 

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Really underground garage
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Let's see if I got this right....you ask me to show you how to set up some stupid easy fixture so you can basically tell me to "F" off?

Why would you bother to do that?With all due respect,haha.
 

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Let's see if I got this right....you ask me to show you how to set up some stupid easy fixture so you can basically tell me to "F" off?

Why would you bother to do that?With all due respect,haha.
I feel and have experienced your frustration, (in a different thread) (http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/beeswax-make-cutting-board-finish-56427/#post533667).

There is a lot of that BS on this forum.....

Thanks for sharing.... Will you show the rest of the process?

And I love your signature....I wish that I would have read it a few days, ago.
 

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Really underground garage
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes,Rhyno there is.....but there is a metric ton of good info here as well.

C-man "should" have pointed(ha) out that the gullet is NOT the place to register from.And why....if homey wants to "better" a typical grinding shop,that you register off the arbor hole....but he didn't?

Fixture design is a lot of science....but just like WW'ing,theres plenty of "art" to go with it.Just like anything else you do,knowing and understanding the "balance" between the two is usually where the magic occurs.

So,start with a dead simple fixture to measure your tooling.This IS NOT wasting your time.You now should have a way to check resharpen'd OR when assembling cutter heads(shapers,TS's,etc).....whether YOU'RE sharpening them or not.Which isn't the gauldang point(ha).

It is however a step in the right direction.....and it ain't a baby step.You have to have a way to check your progress.In this case it represents a "value" because it's simple fixture/jig building 101.WW'ers get hung up on dial indicators for some freakin unknown reason?If you don't have one fine,you can check with backlighting.......no,it won't put numbers on the problem but in an awful lot of cases it does a better job at finding problems that need further investigation.

When a person sidsteps the issue and says,"I just send them out".....what is the next logical sophmoric retort..."well I just always buy new"........next guy,"well I just buy German tooling".And so on and so forth.Well,I must be from Missouri...'cause you're gonna have to "show me".And the way to do that is with some basic metrology.
 

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Yes,Rhyno there is.....but there is a metric ton of good info here as well.

C-man "should" have pointed(ha) out that the gullet is NOT the place to register from.And why....if homey wants to "better" a typical grinding shop,that you register off the arbor hole....but he didn't?

Fixture design is a lot of science....but just like WW'ing,theres plenty of "art" to go with it.Just like anything else you do,knowing and understanding the "balance" between the two is usually where the magic occurs.

So,start with a dead simple fixture to measure your tooling.This IS NOT wasting your time.You now should have a way to check resharpen'd OR when assembling cutter heads(shapers,TS's,etc).....whether YOU'RE sharpening them or not.Which isn't the gauldang point(ha).

It is however a step in the right direction.....and it ain't a baby step.You have to have a way to check your progress.In this case it represents a "value" because it's simple fixture/jig building 101.WW'ers get hung up on dial indicators for some freakin unknown reason?If you don't have one fine,you can check with backlighting.......no,it won't put numbers on the problem but in an awful lot of cases it does a better job at finding problems that need further investigation.

When a person sidsteps the issue and says,"I just send them out".....what is the next logical sophmoric retort..."well I just always buy new"........next guy,"well I just buy German tooling".And so on and so forth.Well,I must be from Missouri...'cause you're gonna have to "show me".And the way to do that is with some basic metrology.
When you first mentioned that you do your own carbide tipped blades, it peaked my interest. Then you showed what you used explaining how simple, and basic it is comprised of nuts and bolts from your spare bins, or from Fred Sanford's yard, I thought...how gullible do you think we are? I expected you to come back after some responses admitting it was a joke, and you knew better.

So, I didn't address your 'parts', or methods falling for some kind of spoof, and actually thinking you got precision accuracy. Like I said, if what you wind up with is good enough for you, that's all that matters. I've touched up bits with a diamond file, but I wouldn't think of sharpening a carbide tipped blade.

Yes, I'm one that sends out my blades.






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Really underground garage
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rhyno,I haven't read the Beeswax thread,but will.

Just wanted to post this in the spirit of positive juju...and Beeswax.

This can be construed as a tangent?But Beeswax has many uses......these pics are of some boots awaiting the "hotwax" treatment.The little,almost empty jar of Beeswax based waterproofer is the ****.

The connection here is that one thing that folks don't get about wax is the heat/cool cycle.Whether its my race leathers or a stupid cool,figured pce of burl wood......you heat the part,inject Beeswax.....part cools and sucks the wax into the pores.It's magic I tell ya,haha.
 

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Really underground garage
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
C-man....you inferred that I sharpen my own blades.I said that it had been done,and done well.To say I "practice" the skillset or whatever was YOUR mistake.

Look,I've raised 4 sons of my own........engineer,college professor'S,pro artist,not to metion living with PHD wifeypoo for over 30 loooooooong years,haha.Thats just my blood kin.We won't go into the 1/2 dz young boys that found their way here because of life's circumstances,chittin in their bed.Throw in pro sports and suffice it to say I know a thing or two about testosterone.Folks are headed down a deadend st WRT negativity....

You are no-doubt concerned with the overall welfare of this site......you are also no-doubt a very smart,talented builder.Dude,chill the freak out....think about how you can make things BETTER.

You want a good book to read?Lanny Bassham(ok,I had to find his book in library for the name)is/was an olympic shooting coach.You would do well to read his book.Send me your addy and I'll send you a dang copy!
 

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C-man....you inferred that I sharpen my own blades.I said that it had been done,and done well.To say I "practice" the skillset or whatever was YOUR mistake.
With all that you presented about DIY carbide blade sharpening, it's a fetch to think you weren't meaning you didn't do it. You did your best to make a convincing argument about how simple it can be. You are right, that I am for the betterment of the forum. That's why there is additional dialog. I can read text even if there are no spaces after the commas or periods.:laughing:






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Rhyno,I haven't read the Beeswax thread,but will.

Just wanted to post this in the spirit of positive juju...and Beeswax.

This can be construed as a tangent?But Beeswax has many uses......these pics are of some boots awaiting the "hotwax" treatment.The little,almost empty jar of Beeswax based waterproofer is the ****.

The connection here is that one thing that folks don't get about wax is the heat/cool cycle.Whether its my race leathers or a stupid cool,figured pce of burl wood......you heat the part,inject Beeswax.....part cools and sucks the wax into the pores.It's magic I tell ya,haha.

Yes, I use a product, that has BeesWax in it, for my boots, too.

Whites Boot Oil

http://www.whitesboots.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29839

It's good stuff.
 
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