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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I'm converting one of my kitchen cabinets to a pull out trash draw. The cabinet is 13 9/16" wide, and the slides are 1/2 thick. Should I make the drawer 12 9/16" side? Do I need any additional allowances to make it fit?

I'm making something similar to this
 

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Rather than making that out of wood which would be difficult to keep clean there is pull out trash can hardware which comes with the trash cans that would work for that purpose. I think you would have difficulty keeping the door closing correctly mounting it with a drawer. The pull out trash can hardware has a bracket you can adjust if necessary and re-adjust if the door warps someday. If you can't find this hardware at the box stores you can get it at www.wwhardware.com
 

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I never did like buying the hardware and the containers that come with the set. The slide assembly is usually not as stout as the side mount 100# full extension slides. The containers are usually too small, and the cost can be over $100.

I prefer to make a drawer and fit the container as needed like below.
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trash drawer.jpg






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Woodworkers Hardware has many pull out waste bins that are rated at 100 to 150 pounds. They even have one that will carry 4 trash cans. I've never had any complaints from any I've installed. I saw one a month ago I installed in 2007 and it still slides and closes perfect.
 

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I was thinking of using these slides. Would these work for my application.
Accuride has heavy duty full extension slides. They may work better for you as garbage cans can get pretty heavy. As cabinetman suggested, I'd take off the extra 1/16". There's enough play in the slides that the 1/32" makes it smooth.
 

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Better slightly smaller... I had to plane the sides of a set of drawers because the hole was slightly out of square and was binding up the slides..... :thumbdown:
 

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Why do you think the there would be difficulty closing correctly? Thanks for the second options.
The drawer would have to be built and installed perfectly square with the opening initially. Then it seems like since they are made out of wood are affected by the elements warping and twisting the components until from time to time need adjustment which is difficult because you have to shim the door to the drawer. With the hardware since only half of it is wood the door itself is the only thing that might twist or warp. If that were to happen there is a couple screws on the hardware you can loosen and quickly adjust the door if need be. At one time I was making the trash can pull outs with wood until I found out about the factory hardware. At first I just did it because I thought it looked more professional but then I discovered I no longer had to go back and re-adjust pull outs that went bad. For me it usually ended up with me loosing a half days work by the time I drove 40-50 miles to a customers house to fix a drawer.
 

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At one time I was making the trash can pull outs with wood until I found out about the factory hardware. At first I just did it because I thought it looked more professional but then I discovered I no longer had to go back and re-adjust pull outs that went bad. For me it usually ended up with me loosing a half days work by the time I drove 40-50 miles to a customers house to fix a drawer.
I must have better luck than you. I don't get call backs on my drawers or pull outs. When the factory type trash pull out hardware was first introduced, I had several that just failed, or didn't stand up to side motion very well. Discarded them and made drawers.






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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to work on this project this weekend, the vegetable garden took up too much time. Hopefully next weekend will have more free time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Finally getting back to this project. I made the box today from tow piece of plywood I picked up from HD for a buck. Its the first box I've made and it's not too bad. The the front and back aren't exactly flush with the sides, off by maybe 3/64". It's about as good as can be expected with the stop-block clamp system I was using. I chose to use this dado and tongue joint for the fun of it. Later in the week I plan to route a rabbet to hold a 1/4" ply to hold two trash cans.
 

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http://www.accuride.com/Resources/PDF/3732-R10-0408.pdf

In the upper right corner black box, see the recommended spacing. All side mounted slides require an extra 1/32" per side in addition to the 1/2" size of the slides. Some individuals may have success by only leaving 1/2" but it's not likely they are in the business or install hundreds of slides. Follow manufacturer installation instructions.
 

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I think your drawer will work just fine. Have you thought about doubling up on the 1/4 inch bottom for added strength so it will support any weight you might put in the cans?

Recently I dismantled a work bench I built in 1987. The drawers were similar to yours only I used simple butt joints, glue and nails. After all these years and a lot of use (loaded with tools), I still had to bust the pieces of the drawer apart with a hammer. Never had a problem with any type of failure for any of the three drawers.

Good luck. Post some more pics of your project when you get time.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The ply is going on the top and will have a cut out for the cans. I figure it will be kept cleaner if the mess is more visible.

will strips of poplar adhere to the ply edges? I think it will look nicer.
 
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