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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,
I have a question about fastening / gluing PVC boards to plywood. I’ve been contemplating building new kitchen cabinets (very small kitchen) using PVC lumber for the cabinet doors and face frames. I’ve built 2 doors, as a test, using pocket holes and PVC glue for the stiles and rails with PVC wainscoting as the center panel and that has turned out pretty good so far. With that being successful, I’m confident that the face frames can be constructed using the same method. My concern is fastening the face frames to the face of the cabinet carcass / box. Does anyone have any experience with this or any suggestions for securing the face frames to the cabinet, or better yet, is this a effort in futility?

Thanks for any and all help, ideas, suggestions.
 

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Let me understand ...
- By PVC you mean polyvinylcloride - plastic?
- Your concern is attaching your PVC doors to the cabinet frame?
- Have you experimented w/ the holding power of screws into PVC?
- Is there a particular reason for using PVC?
I would be concerned about the following:
- screws pulling out of the PVC
- not being able to get enough holding power to fasten the doors to the frame using short screws
- the PVC becomming more prone to breakage, especially over time
- the PVC having a tendency to yellow over time
Just some thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dlb
Thanks for your response and thoughts. Sorry if I didn’t explain this very well (trying not to make a long post)
To see the material I’ve been testing check this link
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-3-4-in-x-4-1-2-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-6-Pack-IN5416418/203640252
The product description pretty much describes why I’m testing this and when you live in Florida the” Impervious to moisture” part is appealing.

My concern is attaching the face frame to the cabinet. Finding some type of glue or method that will adhere / fasten the PVC face frame to the front of the cabinet. I’ve already tested the ability of the PVC holding together with Gorilla PVC Glue and pocket hole screws for the door construction and they are holding fine. I even tried to break a joint and it seemed to hold as good as a wood to wood joint.
I’ll try and attach pictures of what the doors look like

Thanks again for your input.


IMG00250.jpg

IMG00251.jpg
 

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I think he's talking about composite wood they use in decking. I've never heard of anyone using it in cabinets, but if you insist on using it, try a glue that comes in a tube, like Liquid Nails or I prefer LocTite PL glue. I experimented with the LocTite and successfully glued 2 pieces of bamboo flooring together, finished surface to finished surface. I have bamboo floring covering my workbench and woodglue, stains and paints are easily removed when dry - but not that LocTite glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
cabinetman, you're on the right track...up north it's called a screened in porch or patio you Floridians call it a Lanai :smile:...I'm still learning!!

BernieL, I've tried the Liquid Nails and it didin't hold very well. Is the Loctite similar to Gorilla Glue??

Thanks
 

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I've used them in my bathroom with brads and they held just fine. For a cabinet I'd probably use liquid nails under pins and maybe even clamp overnight.

They do shatter easier from the brads so if you want a REALLY sharp look, avoid brads altogether.
 

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You could always try using some PL Premium or Gorilla glue ( if that's what you have ) and screw them together. Then, use a plug cutter to hide your screw holes.
 

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If you are using the Gorilla no primer needed PVC glue--- I tried it on PVC pipe and I think the can cleared two pastures before the garbage landed. It had no hold for water pipe. You may have better luck on zero pressure frames but who knows! FYI when I told the guy at the store about it they pulled it off the shelf.
 
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