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Buying Softwood Lumber for Shop Furniture

575 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  holtzdreher
Full disclosure...very much a newbie. I've purchased almost all of my wood products from the big box stores...with a few exceptions. I'm getting more involved with woodworking, and I want to build a nice 4x8 foot mobile workbench with shelves, drawers, etc. My question...

Obviously, this is shop furniture and I'll use softwood. Should I go to a lumber yard to buy the lumber? They may have higher quality lumber (i.e. less knots, dryer (i.e. less chance for warping), etc.). It may cost a bit more, but if I can find 20 2x4s that are higher quality, it may be much easier to use - i.e. worth more money (within reason).

Thoughts?
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Of the softwoods I've worked with, Southern Yellow Pine is the strongest, and least likely to wrap.
Another favorite wood is Cypress, not certain what family species it is, but it's also straight grained, cuts easily and impervious to moisture.
Regular Spruce and Pine construction grade lumber is often cut from small diameter logs close to the bark and tends to warp as it dries out.
I did get 40 - 2 X 6 X 10 ft ground contact SYP from Menards and hand picked them. All but 2 were flat and straight.
Standard white wood 2x4’s are generally straight, stable. You can usually select boards with few to no knots. SYP is not as stable, has a lot of knots. That said, 2x10 or 2x12 SYP boards can be ripped to use the outer 3-4” and will be rift or even quarter sawn. Be prepared for movement!

All in all your best bet is white wood - spruce or fir. Species vary with locale.
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Full disclosure...very much a newbie. I've purchased almost all of my wood products from the big box stores...with a few exceptions. I'm getting more involved with woodworking, and I want to build a nice 4x8 foot mobile workbench with shelves, drawers, etc. My question...

Obviously, this is shop furniture and I'll use softwood. Should I go to a lumber yard to buy the lumber? They may have higher quality lumber (i.e. less knots, dryer (i.e. less chance for warping), etc.). It may cost a bit more, but if I can find 20 2x4s that are higher quality, it may be much easier to use - i.e. worth more money (within reason).

Thoughts?
I think by the time you build the table with shelves and drawers by the time you get the contents in it it won't be so mobile. I built one about 3'x5' with rubber tires on one end to be moved like a wheelbarrow. It's so heavy with the contents I can't move it.

I think if you get picky you can select through the wood at the box store and find some good wood. If it were me I would use a sheet of 3/4" birch plywood for the top. It's sturdy and lighter weight than a solid wood top.
If you can process the 2x12 southern yellow pine from home depot, you can get really good wood from those boats and they are usually pretty dry. The board's I used for my bench didn't move at all.

Table Product Wood Rectangle Tablecloth
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I live a couple of blocks from Home Depot. I walk there. I buy a lot of stuff there. I even own HD stock.

But when I need lumber for a project, I go to the local lumberyard. When I was building my deck, the worst piece from the lumberyard was as good or better than the best from the big box.
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If you can process the 2x12 southern yellow pine from home depot, you can get really good wood from those boats and they are usually pretty dry. The board's I used for my bench didn't move at all.

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That's pretty much how I did it..2x12s and rip them down and get rid of the pith..
My next bench is going to have a replaceable melamine top. My old heavy bench is too heavy and takes up way too much space. I want the perfectly flat surface of melamine and don't feel much like planing a bench top every time the wind blows the wrong way..
Ripping down 2x12s is a good idea...probably a bit cheaper. Should be able to get three 2x4s out of each board.
BigCountry79, that's a beautiful quartersawn surface on your workbench.
csmcswain, take note that the 2 workbenches with solid tops are much narrower than the 4' wide work table you are thinking of. Narrow benches often start with a massive top, but wider tables start with a stiff understructure stable in both directions, not just one. I read your description and it sounds like a piece of plywood casework to me. You could build it with a framed structure if you are thinking it will be practice with solid wood joinery. For rigidity, this requires quite a few closely fitted mortise & tenon or bridle joints, particularly of you are going to put it on wheels. If you want to go that route, chose harder wood like Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas fir rather than the spruce/fir mix often referred to a whitewood and make some practice joints first. These are often described in terms of strength, but stiffness is frequently what is important.
I learned a couple lessons with this bench made entirely of Douglas fir LVL.

Wood Table Hardwood Composite material Machine tool


The structure is two large frames with slot and tenon joints at the corners. These are very ridged. These are joined by about 12 cross members using dowels and large screws. It swayed back and forth like crazy until I added the closely fitted "X" braces at each end
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John's explanation is great.
But, most folks do not understand that all of the components need to work together for rigidity, for mass, for bending, and for resistance to racking especially.
One giant hunk of wood would be ideal, but not at all practical.
We want the top massive and stiff to absorb blows from hammering and striking.
We want the bench to resist pushing and horizontal forces from hand planing.
We want the bench to resist racking like an open carboard box will do.
If we fold all the flaps inward, it has no resistance to folding over and collapsing.
If we open all the flaps and tape them down, even a light weight cardboard box becomes rigid.
"X" braces work because a triangle can NOT collapse.
Triangles are used as braces in bridges for the same reason.
A sheet of even the thinnest plywood on the back and ends will do much the same, but will NOT add any mass.
Book cases need a back because books are heavy and when set in motion, the greater mass will keep it in motion.
An "open" book case relies entirely on the strength of the dados holding up the shelves, not all that much.
The mortise and tenon joints have good resistance to racking because the shoulders are tight against the legs to prevent any movement.
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it may be cheaper and stronger to look for steel legs. I found an old used pair on Market place for $20. Even adjustable for height. I bolted 2x6's to the back and one on the front to resist racking and then laminated used 2x4's standing on their sides to make the top. Used wood glue between them and pipe clamps to squeeze them together. .
A couple thoughts not related to lumber -- A mobile table that big will be heavy and need a very sturdy frame. How will you address the joinery?

You might consider building the whole thing out of plywood. Basically 3 cabinet boxes fastened together w/ doors and drawers. The top overhangs 3” all around.

If you need an actual ww’ing bench you need a solid top capable of holding a vise. This can be a laminated 2x4‘s or 3-4 sheets of ply or MDF. It could be part of the bench, the rest could be a torsion box.

Another thought - 2 separate benches 2’ wide?
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work benches VS work tables, VS cabinets which one?
As much as I admire real Roubo style work benches, I don't have one. I may not ever make one because my working style doesn't require that massive a bench.
Rather I have come up with a design that utilizes legal size two drawer file cabinets as supports for various types of tops:

I use slab doors with a 1/4" hardboard protective surface:
Shelving Gas Wood Shelf Cabinetry


A torsion box made from 1 X 3's and 3/4" particle board:
Furniture Cabinetry Table Wood Shelving


A laminated Maple top with bench vises at each end;
Table Wood Drawer Wood stain Desk


Three file cabinets all attached, with a over hanging 2 drawer Formica top:
Cabinetry Countertop Automotive exterior Bumper Gas



Cabinetry Wood Wheel Office equipment Gas


By using the file cabinets, bought used at a office supply warehouse for $75 each, I get heavy duty drawers and great structural support.
By attaching them together at the sides, they become "modular" and when used through the shop are interchangeable if necessary.
Torsion box top and the Formica top above, do not allow for mounting a vise in the 3/4" thick surface like the laminated Maple top.
The pair of Craftsman woodworkers vises at each end can work together to support a longer piece when hand planing an edge.

Each different style or "work bench" has a different use in my case:
Supporting the outfeed from the table saw combined with an assembly surface.
The slabs are used for bench top tools like drill presses and general utility tools, not as a "working" surface.
The two drawer Formica top is a light duty work surface on locking casters.
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for a work table, I have an old office desk that I put up on a dolly on each end. I can sit in my counter height stool to work at it., move it around when I need to and it has drawers for the lighter "craft type supplies" It is where I paint items, design projects etc. The work bench is for the heavy, banging stuff and vise work, and for extra heavy duty stuff, down next to the barn, I have a tree stump about 28 inches in diameter and 36 inches high and a piece of rail.
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