Buying a HF Sander and looking for additional coupon
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'Wood' Magazine has them in their HF ad. Also, they show up in various newspapers (like in the Sunday sales supplements), etc.
Bill
Bill
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Thanks, I'll pick up a wood magazine today. I hope this months retail price is worth it. LOL. I'm sure the extra savings will be.:smile: I don't subscribe because there are just too many issues that I'm not interested in.
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almost any magazine will have H-F coupons
4 Wheeler, Hot Rod, Woodworker's Journal, American Woodworker, Guns and Ammo, etc. anything that may require tools is fair game for the H-F coupons.
However, you want the one that has the spindle sander coupon, a woodworking magazine, and you'll have to "browse" through some of them to find it. It should be on sale for $89.99 , a "super coupon" what ever that means...
The 20% off any item coupon may give you the same discount, it depends on the price they quote before the discount. I have that sander and it's a great buy and works fine. You can get the sanding sleeves at H-F pretty reasonable also.
4 Wheeler, Hot Rod, Woodworker's Journal, American Woodworker, Guns and Ammo, etc. anything that may require tools is fair game for the H-F coupons.
However, you want the one that has the spindle sander coupon, a woodworking magazine, and you'll have to "browse" through some of them to find it. It should be on sale for $89.99 , a "super coupon" what ever that means...
The 20% off any item coupon may give you the same discount, it depends on the price they quote before the discount. I have that sander and it's a great buy and works fine. You can get the sanding sleeves at H-F pretty reasonable also.
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Sleeper, have a flyer with a 25% Off one item thru 10/27/13....would a scanned version work?
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Thanks guys, I just went Lowe's and bought a wood magazine that had a coupon.
I’m not sure if it’s the regular Wood issue or a special, but it has the $89 coupon and saves me about $35 of the sale price minus the $6 for the magazine.
So tonight I will have a Spindle Sander. :smile::thumbsup:
I’m not sure if it’s the regular Wood issue or a special, but it has the $89 coupon and saves me about $35 of the sale price minus the $6 for the magazine.
So tonight I will have a Spindle Sander. :smile::thumbsup:
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Oh I love it. I bought the wood magazine and took the whole book in because I didn’t want to cut out the coupons. They just crossed out the bar code and even gave me all the other discounts in the book including a flashlight.
I didn’t use it at first because there was a lot of oil on the table and I figured I’d leave it on until I was actually was going to use it for something, but I did turn it on and run it.
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I have this sander and I think it works great, no problems in the half dozen times I have used it. Dust collection works well too.
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I actually did not realize it had dust collection until I got home, so that was a big surprise. I’m going to have to add a wye to my router table and connect it to that hose.
I'm glad to hear it works. :smile:
Am sure you'll get lots of good use out of your sander.
Point of response is in reference to the sanding paper(rolls,belts,etc).There have been books....well,maybe pamphlets,haha...written on the degree of grit sharpness and how that relates to..."when do I change the paper".
Not going to give you answers,just saying to be aware of the time "wasted" using worn out paper.Try to get a $$ handle on the balance between new/fresh/fast cutting...and...getting the "most" out of the belt.
Also pay "real good" attention to the differences in performance with fresh paper vs old.....and how the resultant performance effects processes down the line(big difference in the "scratch" between new and old.....how does this impact "finishing" for instance)
All this may seem academic or overstated for the equip here.....I'd disagree.You have a pce of equip.....you are using it......you are building stuff.Paper performance is right up there in importance in shop ju-ju....be it a spindle sander or a $50K+ widebelt.
Point of response is in reference to the sanding paper(rolls,belts,etc).There have been books....well,maybe pamphlets,haha...written on the degree of grit sharpness and how that relates to..."when do I change the paper".
Not going to give you answers,just saying to be aware of the time "wasted" using worn out paper.Try to get a $$ handle on the balance between new/fresh/fast cutting...and...getting the "most" out of the belt.
Also pay "real good" attention to the differences in performance with fresh paper vs old.....and how the resultant performance effects processes down the line(big difference in the "scratch" between new and old.....how does this impact "finishing" for instance)
All this may seem academic or overstated for the equip here.....I'd disagree.You have a pce of equip.....you are using it......you are building stuff.Paper performance is right up there in importance in shop ju-ju....be it a spindle sander or a $50K+ widebelt.
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good points
When the sandpaper "wears" and becomes less efficient, it has essentially become a finer grit. It's time to remove and replaxe that belt or sleeve and get a fresh one, relegating the worn one to another operation where a finer grit is needed. Another point that I would make is belt and sleeve cleaning. The gum rubber belt cleaners that you press into the moving belt while it's running are very effective in removing the loose particles that have built up between the grits. If however, you have overheated and gummed the belt up there is little hope to regenerate it's original efficiency, just replace it. A gummed up "wood" belt becomes an acceptable "metal" grinding belt in my shop. I do a lot of metal grinding/sharpening on the 6" x 48" belt sander.
Finally there are different types of sand paper, like open grit which has more space between the abrasive particles and will clog less readily. Gummy woods like Pine are murder on sandpaper in my experience and the slightest heat from too much pressure will fuse the dust into the pores between the grits. Always start with the most coarse grit possible and work your way to the finer ones.
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5571552_open-face-sandpaper.html
http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/articles/sandpaper/index.htm
When the sandpaper "wears" and becomes less efficient, it has essentially become a finer grit. It's time to remove and replaxe that belt or sleeve and get a fresh one, relegating the worn one to another operation where a finer grit is needed. Another point that I would make is belt and sleeve cleaning. The gum rubber belt cleaners that you press into the moving belt while it's running are very effective in removing the loose particles that have built up between the grits. If however, you have overheated and gummed the belt up there is little hope to regenerate it's original efficiency, just replace it. A gummed up "wood" belt becomes an acceptable "metal" grinding belt in my shop. I do a lot of metal grinding/sharpening on the 6" x 48" belt sander.
Finally there are different types of sand paper, like open grit which has more space between the abrasive particles and will clog less readily. Gummy woods like Pine are murder on sandpaper in my experience and the slightest heat from too much pressure will fuse the dust into the pores between the grits. Always start with the most coarse grit possible and work your way to the finer ones.
http://www.ehow.com/facts_5571552_open-face-sandpaper.html
http://www.woodzone.com/Merchant2/articles/sandpaper/index.htm
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Sand paper has always been a problem for me because I’m so cheap. I like to get my money’s worth and always go too far. It’s usually when the paper starts tearing apart.
It reminds me of a coworker who was cutting pipe with a dull Saw-Zaw blade and the blade was getting red hot with smoke was coming out of the motor. I finally had to stop him and make him put on a new blade. The new blade cut through the pipe in seconds where as the dull one was destroying his saw, not to mention time it was taking.
It reminds me of a coworker who was cutting pipe with a dull Saw-Zaw blade and the blade was getting red hot with smoke was coming out of the motor. I finally had to stop him and make him put on a new blade. The new blade cut through the pipe in seconds where as the dull one was destroying his saw, not to mention time it was taking.
Although a touch pricey......there is an incredibly "good read" written by the engineer who started "Timesaver" sander co.Can't remember when "the book" was written?1985?
It is invaluable to anyone running much paper(sander/grinder stuff).
For us here.....grinding(sanding to some)wood to tiny little measures requires precision.Which is a component in my original response that was left out.How much $$ is precision worth?
Old paper builds heat....and you can take that to the bank!!!Heat affects wood.....take that to the bank.If you want to "hit your numbers" WRT precision,the heat has to be controlled......dang,need "direct deposit" "cause we keep heading to the bank.
Heat,I'd say is the #1 problem/opportunity that WW'ers,"leave on the table"...irrespective of whether we're dodging cut'off fingers,machining Cherry for instance on a TS....or that same pce of Cherry using ya'lls spindle sanders.
Beat the heat in 3 ways......At point of contact(tooth geometry,paper grit/freshness)....injected air(ya'll would be slackjawed at what a difference it makes directing a blast of air right at certain machine operations does for cut quality)....and then dust collecting,which should really be "extraction" ..'cause unless you're a chicken farmer,why are we "collecting" dust?Collect handplanes or handsaws,yes.....but dust?
DC is the entrance door to controlling heat....you gotta have it right(DC)?Make it do more than just collect....you're trying to extract as much heat as possible out of the cut.
It is invaluable to anyone running much paper(sander/grinder stuff).
For us here.....grinding(sanding to some)wood to tiny little measures requires precision.Which is a component in my original response that was left out.How much $$ is precision worth?
Old paper builds heat....and you can take that to the bank!!!Heat affects wood.....take that to the bank.If you want to "hit your numbers" WRT precision,the heat has to be controlled......dang,need "direct deposit" "cause we keep heading to the bank.
Heat,I'd say is the #1 problem/opportunity that WW'ers,"leave on the table"...irrespective of whether we're dodging cut'off fingers,machining Cherry for instance on a TS....or that same pce of Cherry using ya'lls spindle sanders.
Beat the heat in 3 ways......At point of contact(tooth geometry,paper grit/freshness)....injected air(ya'll would be slackjawed at what a difference it makes directing a blast of air right at certain machine operations does for cut quality)....and then dust collecting,which should really be "extraction" ..'cause unless you're a chicken farmer,why are we "collecting" dust?Collect handplanes or handsaws,yes.....but dust?
DC is the entrance door to controlling heat....you gotta have it right(DC)?Make it do more than just collect....you're trying to extract as much heat as possible out of the cut.
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