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I was reminded of something about using routers the other day. It's better not to make big cuts in one pass, twice I've had a router bit wonder out of the collet even though collar nut was tight. Better to make several passes advancing work in after each pass. The first time with powerful router (1/2") the bit went straight up into the air, I thought it was going to take off sideways at me.
 

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I know this is an old thread but I enjoyed to tale of Steve's door. He built it against all possible odds and it still swings open today. Ok, maybe it wasnt all that dramatic but it was a good thread to read anyway. I picked up a few things along the way.

One thing I read though and didnt understand was why Red Oak is not suitable for exterior doors. A good finish will not protect it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
mjdtexan said:
I know this is an old thread but I enjoyed to tale of Steve's door. He built it against all possible odds and it still swings open today. Ok, maybe it wasnt all that dramatic but it was a good thread to read anyway. I picked up a few things along the way.

One thing I read though and didnt understand was why Red Oak is not suitable for exterior doors. A good finish will not protect it?
Thank you, once again the only reason I'm posting on the forum is because i am sick in bed "again".

I will post better pics soon and maybe fork the thread to with better pics.
 

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Whats with all the spam all the sudden? :eek:These folks have a "classified section" here and they are very nice to us and let us use it pretty freely,:thumbsup: please post your ads there.:yes:
 

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Can I get your door builder friend's info?

BTW please post your location, so we will know what environmental conditions exist. A few things I didn't mention: My buddy, Doug, made the doors ( 4' x 10' high x 3" thick with architectural details and beveled glass,) to the Governor's office in Lansing, Michigan. He's an expert. His tools include a 24" planer, 16" jointer, 2 spindle 10 hp shaper, a cast iron "flat" gluing table for the expoxy glue ups, a straight line rip saw to cut the maple laminations, a 3" wide blade resaw 10 Hp to make the applied panels, and last but not least a 42" wide belt thicknessing sander. Roughly about $30,000 to $40,000 worth of equipment, to make my door 42" x 6'8" x 2 1/4" thick, nine raised panels. The stainless steel hinges were $60.00 apiece x 3, The lock set was $250.00. Are you getting a picture here.....If you would like I'll give you his phone and email if you will PM me or maybe John would like to make a door for you. This is a big door and a big project, not one normally done with standard woodworking equipment found in "home" shops. You can do a laminated style door on some substrate as John and I mentioned, but that's the only way I can think of to come in under budget on this one. I have 2 shops full of equipment and I still couldn't and wouldn't make the same quality door for what Doug charged me. Now that's just my advice and my opinion, I don't want you to feel that it's not possible, it's just not practical. :no: bill
I live Greenwood, IN, and I was wondering if your buddy might be able to build me a door? I don't much care for the ones I see on the market as they're expensive and not real anyway. I don't mind expensive if I'm getting a real and beautiful product. I have an existing 36 inch door and two 12 inch sidelights that I'd like to replace. I could have the glass installed if your friend builds the door with glass cutouts and hangs it. Anyway, I would be interested if you can pass along his contact info. I want to pass you my email but can seem to find where I can contact you privately. Thanks. -Stu
 

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I know this is an extremely old thread, but hoping to get some insight as I'm thinking about doing the same thing as Steve.
I'm wondering if Steve went with the solid OAK door as opposed to the epoxy laminated as was suggested? It looks like it from the pics he posted. I read a few times he got the wood, but I didn't read exactly what he went with. Just wanted some clarification.
Also, if it was the solid core oak, since it's been a few years now, how has it held up to the environment? Any warping? Still swinging and closing good? Tight seal all the way around?

I'm in Chicago with widely fluctuating weather throughout the year. From 100+ degree summer days to -20 degree winter days. Rain, sleet, snow, sun, humidity etc... and I want a door that will last the life of my house, with proper upkeep of course.

thanks...
 

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I know this is an extremely old thread, but hoping to get some insight as I'm thinking about doing the same thing as Steve.
I'm wondering if Steve went with the solid OAK door as opposed to the epoxy laminated as was suggested? It looks like it from the pics he posted. I read a few times he got the wood, but I didn't read exactly what he went with. Just wanted some clarification.
Also, if it was the solid core oak, since it's been a few years now, how has it held up to the environment? Any warping? Still swinging and closing good? Tight seal all the way around?

I'm in Chicago with widely fluctuating weather throughout the year. From 100+ degree summer days to -20 degree winter days. Rain, sleet, snow, sun, humidity etc... and I want a door that will last the life of my house, with proper upkeep of course.

thanks...
Steve G. hasn't been here since March 2011. This Steve would always rather use solid wood for a door than laminate one.

As far as finishing the door would last better with your temperature extremes with a good marine grade spar varnish. The best is Epifanes.
 
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