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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the frame built tonight for my miter saw station. I building a cabinet beneath the saw for a shop vac for dust collection and will enclose the rest of the base. Will 1/4" ply be stout enough to enclose the base? I don't need 3/4 ply to add any structural rigidity since the base is all 4x4 and 2x4 construction(what I had laying around).

Also I'm building the wings or infeed/out feed table to be permanent and not fold away. I was going to go out 3ft on each side to give me a total fence length of just under 8ft with the saw centered. Will that be adequate?
 

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John
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Got the frame built tonight for my miter saw station. I building a cabinet beneath the saw for a shop vac for dust collection and will enclose the rest of the base. Will 1/4" ply be stout enough to enclose the base? I don't need 3/4 ply to add any structural rigidity since the base is all 4x4 and 2x4 construction(what I had laying around).

Also I'm building the wings or infeed/out feed table to be permanent and not fold away. I was going to go out 3ft on each side to give me a total fence length of just under 8ft with the saw centered. Will that be adequate?
Pretty daunting challenge, trying to tame a miter saw:thumbsup:
1/4" should be plenty for just enclosing it. I'm thinking 3ft might be a little light for infeed/outfeed support but it depends on what your job mix is. My recommendation would be to go ahead with the 3 ft but try do design it so it will be fairly easy to extend should you need to.
Good Luck:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Most everything I do is <8ft. If its bigger that 8ft I'll break out the skill saw. I'm thinking 3ft is the least I can get away with. Gives me a total width of about 8ft. Should be ok I think.
 

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To the original question - 1/4 ply is antiquate for enclosures... As for the length - always go for the maximum you can fit into the big picture. If you know your needs and have no intention of expanding your woodworking skills and project line, your measurements will be fine. For most of us, we intend on developing our skills and repertoires, so max length is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For a miter saw enclosing the top is what is critical for dust collection. Even then you will get dust. The pictures show the crude hood I made from scrap materials.
Yea I plan on making some kind of hood for dust collection along with some kind of dust port for the shop vac I plan on putting inside the cabinet.
 

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When I built my miter saw station, I made it a total of 8'....has worked well for me....didn't build a hood, because I took the bag off and hooked a shop vac to it.....

 

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When I built my miter saw station, I made it a total of 8'....has worked well for me....didn't build a hood, because I took the bag off and hooked a shop vac to it.....

I assume that you found out that the vac does not catch much of that dust.

George
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got it framed out tonight and the casters on. Casters were salvaged off of an old roller cab toolbox I scraped and the 4x4's and 2x4's were salvaged as well. I have a tendency to over build. So far I'm in this project $0.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thought I would fallow up on this thread. Made a run to lowes today to pic up what I needed to move a little further. I got it sheeted and everything done up. I might be off a 32nd or a 16th here or there but Im ok with it. Maybe not as plush as what some of y'all turn out but it's functional and for this woodturner that's good enough especially considering i have about $50 in this. I've got exactly 9' of supported work surface. The next installment will be about dust collection.











 

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Thanks for the information on this. It gave me some motivation to start on my own miter station. I am learning the joys of working with melamine. I'm building it as a torsion box with a stepped down area for the saw. I'm building in 8 feet of total length and will level it with my stationary workbench do an additional 6' of out feed support.

I also like the kreg system and will likely go that route as well.
 

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Good job WB. If you hadn't finished your extensions, I was going to suggest considering making your extensions hollow boxes so that you could put a telescoping section inside. All you would need is a scrap the same thickness as the top when you wanted to use the extra length. If you use your setup at all for casing, crown, etc. you really need a good 8+ feet on either side.
 

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Uncle Fester
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I also built a scms into an old 10 foot wide existing work bench for my Makita 10" saw. The hood is oak with a bottom 10"x10" dust collection port hooked up to a Delta dust collector. The fences on each side are Incra fences which have 1/32" spaced teeth for the stop.
After all the effort at least the chips and dust are mostly contained.
 

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Wood Snob
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Waterboy12 said:
I'm looking into the kreg setup.
I have always made the stops. I've never found any that were without any play. The rails are from 8020. Very ridged and easy to mount.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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Wood Snob
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Masterjer said:
Thanks for the information on this. It gave me some motivation to start on my own miter station. I am learning the joys of working with melamine. I'm building it as a torsion box with a stepped down area for the saw. I'm building in 8 feet of total length and will level it with my stationary workbench do an additional 6' of out feed support.

I also like the kreg system and will likely go that route as well.
My ends are torsion box construction. I need them to stay straight an true. Besides the ends need to be built up to the saws level.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 
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