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wow that is awesome !!
(keep an eye on it or it may grow legs and wonder off to parts unknown)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys! The depth of the quilted wood is really amazing, especially after filling the pores and getting that polished look.

This is the first time I've went with a high gloss finish on a board. It's a decent amount of work to get the pores filled. I basically sanded down four coats back to the wood. There's probably a quicker way.
 

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Thanks guys! The depth of the quilted wood is really amazing, especially after filling the pores and getting that polished look.

This is the first time I've went with a high gloss finish on a board. It's a decent amount of work to get the pores filled. I basically sanded down four coats back to the wood. There's probably a quicker way.
Looks great. Grain filled high gloss finish is labor intensive. You wind up sanding off a bunch of finish as you build up the finish in the wood grain. It just takes lots of coats....
 

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@BigCountry79
What did you use to fill the pores?
Never mind, I found it on your earlier posts on this thread.
very similar to making a mirror finish on a table top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@BigCountry79
What did you use to fill the pores?
Never mind, I found it on your earlier posts on this thread.
very similar to making a mirror finish on a table top.
Yep. Lots of coats of shellac...

I did find that adding a coat of DNA has a leveling effect similar to sanding and adding a coat of shellac
 

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I am a lacquer guy.
I would have to spray very wet coats and sand them down, then finish sand and buff. I was curious what you did. Anyway, thanks for the info and presenting that awesome chess board to the group.
 

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Excellent work! I really like that all the grain is going the same direction! Great attention to detail to make sure that happened.
 

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Don't be surprised if that design doesn't start cropping up all over the place.
 

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I love the beauty of the wood and the execution of this project. It is a beautiful piece of woodworking.

I am still struggling to grasp the design of the maple frame around the board. I worked on a similar board design, and found no easy solution to the concerns that wood movement in the internal squares would cause gaps or cracking in the frame. The squares are likely to expand and contract more in the direction that is perpendicular to the grain.

Is there some hidden trick that will keep this mitered frame intact over the long term? Is there some trick to these "frame the wood square/rectangle" problems that I do not know?

Note: I have gotten away with "ignore the wood movement concerns, build it anyway, and hope that it holds" designs. Sometimes they work, but it seems to be more luck than anything.
 

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I am still struggling to grasp the design of the maple frame around the board.
I'm curious about that too. My guess: the squares aren't simply edge glued to the frame. Maybe the outer squares have a rabbet/tenon fitting into a slot in the frame? Would like to see a photo of the bottom too.
 
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