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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my last thread featured a FBE hollow form that I cut through during hollowing which is pretty indicative of how my turning has been going lately. I had one last piece of spalted FBE and I was in serious need of a win. After a long day of working with this soft, tear prone chunk I finally completed a piece to my liking. It's 7.5" tall x 6.5" wide, unfinished. 1/8" walls and 7/16" hole. Critiques and finishing suggestions are always appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Love the wood. The combination of color and form are celestial. How do you clear shavings from a 7/16 hole?
Thanks. Dust and chips will come out with compressed air. Curls have to be pulled out with a hooked wire. It's a 15 second cut followed by 1 or 2 minutes of clearing, measure, repeat, over and over and over...
 

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:thumbsup: Those are brilliant , as the man said , Celestial .

They put me in mind of how the turned Norfolk Pine lampshades and tea lights look before they are oiled and lit up
 

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Well that's a fantastic way to get out of the everything-I-make-breaks run you've been having.

Serious respect, there's no way I could hollow something through a hole even twice that diameter.

Since you asked for finishing advice ... take this with as many grains of salt as you can find ... I'd be tempted to try deliberately allowing a finish to run and streak on the outside of this one, kind of like a potter does with slip glaze.

Maybe dipping the form into a vat of finish, then hanging it up to dry (holding onto it with a bent wire coat hanger inserted into the top) and letting the finish run down the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
duncsuss said:
Well that's a fantastic way to get out of the everything-I-make-breaks run you've been having.

Serious respect, there's no way I could hollow something through a hole even twice that diameter.

Since you asked for finishing advice ... take this with as many grains of salt as you can find ... I'd be tempted to try deliberately allowing a finish to run and streak on the outside of this one, kind of like a potter does with slip glaze.

Maybe dipping the form into a vat of finish, then hanging it up to dry (holding onto it with a bent wire coat hanger inserted into the top) and letting the finish run down the outside.
Sounds cool but I'm not sure I've got the guts. Have you done it or seen it done, or is that an original burst of creativity?
 

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Have you done it or seen it done, or is that an original burst of creativity?
Never seen it done in the context of wood, but I'm not sure it counts as "original" -- or "creativity" for that matter :laughing:

I know a couple of potters and have seen them dip pots into glaze before kilning.

And I've had my share of wood finishes that I laid on too thick and got runs, requiring me to sand it all off again ... suddenly thought it might be possible to turn the runs into a feature by piling them on till it's clear they are deliberate.

No idea how it would look, I was rather hoping you'd show us ... :shifty:
 

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Beautiful HF I love the FBE get mine out of NC now
 
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Discussion Starter #13
wood shavings said:
very nice work, what system did you use to end up with the final product

Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I use a number of Ellsworth style tools I make myself. In fact I had to stop hollowing for an hour to make a new one. There's always that one little spot I can't reach with any tool in the rack. It's not a captured system, just small HSS cutters on various drill rod shafts. Nothin fancy.
 

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Hi Very very well done. Finish I would try a satin finish not sure a gloss would work. In the end it is up to you. If you are going to keep the piece ask the folk nearest and dearest to you what they think.regards Roger
 

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Great job Bonanza,
how thick did the walls end up being? For a finish I would use something that doesn't add any yellow to the piece, like satin lacquer.
Mike Hawkins;)
 

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Thanks Jerry. I use a number of Ellsworth style tools I make myself. In fact I had to stop hollowing for an hour to make a new one. There's always that one little spot I can't reach with any tool in the rack. It's not a captured system, just small HSS cutters on various drill rod shafts. Nothin fancy.
I'd love to see pix of these tools -- fancy or not, they quite clearly get the job done (in the right hands ;))
 

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Discussion Starter #19
duncsuss said:
I'd love to see pix of these tools -- fancy or not, they quite clearly get the job done (in the right hands ;))
Here is the bulk of them. Shafts are 1/2", 7/16", 3/8", and 1/4". I'm sure there's less than $5 in materials in any one one of them. They aren't aggressive but give you really good feedback so you can tell what's going on in there (usually).
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
firehawkmph said:
Great job Bonanza,
how thick did the walls end up being? For a finish I would use something that doesn't add any yellow to the piece, like satin lacquer.
Mike Hawkins;)
Thanks mike. I got them as close to 1/8" as I could I believe it's pretty consistent except for the base, which I just can't judge that closely yet. I always try to leave some wiggle room down there. I wondered about lacquer. I agree I need something that won't yellow. I was considering using a light coat or two of Krylon acrylic artist fixative and then knocking off any shine.
 
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