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· master sawdust maker
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Personally. I use a bow saw to make the same cut. You would with a band saw. I don't own a band saw. So that is my reasoning. And its enjoyable to do some things by hand.

As far as blades go, there are a lot of of different styles to choose from. Check out gramercy tools. And tools for working wood. These are two good sites that sell bow saws, as well as kits to build your own saw.
 

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I built a Grammercy one from the kit parts. I really like it for cutting curves. Much more relaxing then the bandsaw which is my arch nemesis. Do I need it? No, probably not, but for handtooling projects they are really nice to have.
 

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Personally. I use a bow saw to make the same cut. You would with a band saw. I don't own a band saw. So that is my reasoning. And its enjoyable to do some things by hand.

As far as blades go, there are a lot of of different styles to choose from. Check out gramercy tools. And tools for working wood. These are two good sites that sell bow saws, as well as kits to build your own saw.
I'm with you on this! I use a 12", and a coping saw for cutting curves, as with a band saw, and a 28" with 1" wide rip blade for resawing.
 

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My benchtop BS can't cut more than 8" off the end of a 2" thick stick. I have 4 bowsaws (Sandvik?) in 3 blade lengths with 3 different tooth pattern blades. The first (32"?) is nearly 40 years old. I use them for making "fret cuts" in the perimeter of large (24" and bigger) wood carvings. Then I bash out the blocks with a 1" chisel and a mallet. I get to an approximation of the basic shape quite quickly.

My only criticism is that I have great difficulty cutting any length of a straight line over 3-4 inches = they tend to wander with a mind of their own. In my application, that's never a problem.
 

· In History is the Future
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6,422 Posts
Splinter, unfortunately there are not a lot of options out there for frame saws.

The job really dictates the saw best for it - just as with a band saw. For just curves blades are readily available and if you cant find exactly what you want you can always grind the hardened teeth off of a band saw blade and retooth it.

For resawing or sawing veneer you would want a pretty wide blade. 3-4" wide with 4-5 pitch seems to be the sweet area for resawing with only one person.
 

· In History is the Future
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6,422 Posts
As a side note, I've been talking to Kevin Reeves of North Wind about him coming up with a line of frame saw blades, particularly for resaw and veneer work.

Hopefully that pans out because there really aren't any resaw blades out there that I would consider great. A resaw / veneer plate should be 3"-4" wide not the 2" wide wimpy blades out there.

I'll keep the forum posted on the progress with that.
 

· In History is the Future
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6,422 Posts
Be sure to keep us Updated. I would really like a wider blade for my frame saw. The two inch blade in mine works, but I would think a wider blade would track a little easier.
Will do - toothing your own is always an option but my job is easier if I can say "Here's a link... Go buy that." lol
 

· In History is the Future
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6,422 Posts
After some thought and deliberation I am proceeding with an idea I had. I am currently working with a couple of manufacturers to offer complete frame saw kits based on the design found in the text of Roubo. First small run of hardware is nearly complete - I'm still working on getting the blades balanced between quality and price.

Stay tuned! I'll start a new thread with developments.
 

· In History is the Future
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I'm excited to see what the end result is too!

I gave it the green light yesterday evening, picked up pieces at one shop mid-morning, dropped those off at another shop for further work and I'll get those back tomorrow or Fri, my shop is the last stop for drilling, taping and final finishing.

I should have something to show y'all by Tue, I'll start a thread then!
 
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