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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I'm new to the forum. Looks like a good site, looking forward to hanging out with ya'll. Anyway I bought a used craftsman table saw model #315.228310. Cast iron body with stamped steel wings, looks to be about a 1.5hp motor and belt driven. Not as heavy as my steel city but not a bad saw. What I want to find out is: What is the max width dado that I can cut. I have a stack blade CMT 8" dado that goes up to 3/4" I put on the saw but to get the full width I had to leave off the blade washer and use the nut only. Is this gonna cause any problems? Also I'm looking at the Leecraft CR-1 insert for this saw. Is this the proper zero clearance insert?
Thanks,
Ray
 

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Hello,
I'm new to the forum. Looks like a good site, looking forward to hanging out with ya'll. Anyway I bought a used craftsman table saw model #315.228310. Cast iron body with stamped steel wings, looks to be about a 1.5hp motor and belt driven. Not as heavy as my steel city but not a bad saw. What I want to find out is: What is the max width dado that I can cut. I have a stack blade CMT 8" dado that goes up to 3/4" I put on the saw but to get the full width I had to leave off the blade washer and use the nut only. Is this gonna cause any problems? Also I'm looking at the Leecraft CR-1 insert for this saw. Is this the proper zero clearance insert?
Thanks,
Ray
Your description sounds like a saw I have. I use 3/4" dado without any problem. If memory serves me the washer still fits.

George
 

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Welcome Ray. It's not a problem leaving the arbor washer off as long as the nut is fully seated on the arbor threads. It's a common practice, and is suggested by several reputable manufacturers to accommodate a full stack.
 

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Hello,
I'm new to the forum. Looks like a good site, looking forward to hanging out with ya'll. Anyway I bought a used craftsman table saw model #315.228310. Cast iron body

FTR, those saws have what i bekieve are steel cabinets and CI tops. it's a more current version of the emerson built 113 series TSs but was built by ryobi for sears.

with stamped steel wings, looks to be about a 1.5hp motor and belt driven. Not as heavy as my steel city but not a bad saw. What I want to find out is: What is the max width dado that I can cut. I have a stack blade CMT 8" dado that goes up to 3/4" I put on the saw but to get the full width I had to leave off the blade washer and use the nut only. Is this gonna cause any problems? Also I'm looking at the Leecraft CR-1 insert for this saw. Is this the proper zero clearance insert?
Thanks,
Ray
+1 on KS's comments re: leaving off the blade washer. also, just make your own ZCI. i use 1/4" mdf and route a rabbet around the underside perimeter. here's some instructions:

http://http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/107/107-zeroclearanceinsert.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First I want to thank you guys for the quick responses. I knew this looked like a good place to get some information. Let me give you a little back round about what I'm trying to do. My hobby is beekeeping, I'm working on turning that hobby into a full time job. The reason I picked up wood working was to save money by building my own equipment. I really don't do anything fancy. My joints are all rabbet cuts most are only 3\8" and I deal with 1 by material. The primary reason I bought this saw is to turn it into a full time dado machine. It is a replacement for a Porter Cable fold up TS that is a "if I knew then what I know now" mistake. Light, under powered, inaccurate POJ. I just should have remembered "good things ain't cheap and cheap things ain't good". My wood working skills are at best novice level, I am more comfortable with metal because it is more forgiving. My work is very repetitive and speed is an issue because there is simply more stuff to do than me to do it sometimes. I'm hoping to use these saws for separate functions to speed up the fabrication times for my equipment. I've built sleds and a couple of jigs but they are for the small retired saw.

Your description sounds like a saw I have. I use 3/4" dado without any problem. If memory serves me the washer still fits.

George
George, I might have misspoke about the width I assumed that the CMT Dado I bought was at max 3/4". After looking at the manual for it the max width is 13/16" so that could account for the washer issue. It still works out good for me because I will be removing material from the edges of my stock. I want to attach a sacrificial board to the fence to make the process a little bit safer.

Welcome Ray. It's not a problem leaving the arbor washer off as long as the nut is fully seated on the arbor threads. It's a common practice, and is suggested by several reputable manufacturers to accommodate a full stack.
KS, thanks for the reassurance and welcome. The Porter Cable saw manual states that going washerless is Ok I just didn't know about the craftsman. I have a thread showing past the arbor nut so I should be fine.

+1 on KS's comments re: leaving off the blade washer. also, just make your own ZCI. i use 1/4" mdf and route a rabbet around the underside perimeter. here's some instructions:
TG1K, I don't have the equipment to support that kind of work. no router. That why the question about the ZCI. I just didn't want to buy one twice.

The saw had been sitting out side. The top CI was rusted pretty bad, the motor and switch were full of water and almost every bolt was loose. It took a while but I got it cleaned up and operational. The PO didn't know much about saw care it's almost like a rescue mission. I only paid $100 for the saw and it came with the mobile base so don't feel like I made a bad buy.
 

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You can buy a blank insert and easily cut a zero clearance. I've used Lee for my old Craftsman and they work nicely. Just make sure the one you buy is for your saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just wanted to post a thanks to everyone. The Leecraft CR-1 worked well in the saw. Full stack dado used without problem.I attached a board on my fence then raised the dado into it. To change the dimensions of my joint is so much easier now.
 

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Just wanted to post a thanks to everyone. The Leecraft CR-1 worked well in the saw. Full stack dado used without problem.I attached a board on my fence then raised the dado into it. To change the dimensions of my joint is so much easier now.
+1 to the Leecraft CR-1. I use one for my my regular 40T thin kerf blade. I think if I needed another I'd try making my own since hardboard costs next to nothing. :thumbsup:
 
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