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Discussion Starter #1
I think that I'm going to be purchasing the Ruth Niles bottle stopper kit. (The $80.00 kit)

She has 2 styles of mandrels....#2MT-A and the #2MT-B.
I understand that the #2MT-B can be used in a chuck, my question is, can it be used without the chuck? Will the taper fit into the spindle with the 1 1/8 shoulder?

Also, can you give me any other pros and cons on which one to buy?

Thank youDick
 

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Both of them will fit into your MT. I use a draw bar with mine. I have the one that fits in a chuck but for the life of me I cant get my chuck to hold it tight. It always moves just slightly so I only use it in the MT now. I wish I had gotten the regular one not intended for a chuck since I dont use it that way. The one that fits in a chuck has a large shoulder that can get in the way sometimes.
 

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yes both fit the morse taper and the one also has a flat portion so it clamps in your chuck
i just bought that kit last week
 

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I use the 2MT-A...I use a draw bar with mine...I love it its so easy to use...The bottle stoppers are very nice quality-10 came in the kit,I have 8 more to make...Ruth Niles was very nice on the phone when I ordered...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for your replies.

This "draw bar" that some of you have mentioned, is it something that you purchase at one of the woodturning stores or something that you fabricate at home?

Once again, thank you.
Dick
 

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a draw bar is a threaded rod better known as all-thread that you place through your headstock or tailstock that threads into your mandrel/chuck to keep it in place...internet search/youtube will yield some results...you can purchase at your big box store...
 

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This "draw bar" that some of you have mentioned, is it something that you purchase at one of the woodturning stores or something that you fabricate at home?
Easy to make at home -- you'll need some threaded rod, a piece of wood to make a knob, a t-nut and another regular nut to act as a lock-nut.

Here's pix of the one I made ...

IMAG0302.jpg

IMAG0303.jpg

IMAG0304.jpg
 

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I have both mandrels. I did not like using the one in the chuck due to it moving or shifting in the chuck. Also, the larger diameter of it can cause you to knick your tool up against it. I mostly use the regular one and today was the first day I had to use a drawbar on it as I have some crud in the MT of the headstock.
 

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I just use a washer and a wing nut on my draw bars. Dunc has to go and get fancy with it and make us all look bad!:laughing:


I have both mandrels. I did not like using the one in the chuck due to it moving or shifting in the chuck. Also, the larger diameter of it can cause you to knick your tool up against it. I mostly use the regular one and today was the first day I had to use a drawbar on it as I have some crud in the MT of the headstock.
The MT isnt designed to hold anything without pressure against it. You really should use a draw bar all the time when not using the tail stock.
 
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I just use a washer and a wing nut on my draw bars. Dunc has to go and get fancy with it and make us all look bad!:laughing:
Maybe if I'd had a wing-nut ... ;)

In truth, I don't think it would've worked on my lathe -- the outboard hand wheel has a deep center recess, which is why I turned that long handle. Unless that was the size of the first piece of wood I found and I was too lazy to shorten it.
 

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Lol

Mine has a recess too. If it were any deeper than it is, I wouldnt be able to use a wing nut.
 

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Thanks guys for the info on the drawbar. I have played around with lathes for many years and never knew about that. Now I know why the MT drill chucks are threaded and why my chuck often comes loose during a drilling operation. Still learning at 72. Off to the shop to make one.
 
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