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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had finally started narrowing down the router bit set I wanted to buy after asking for advice on here. But now I'm totally confused again. I have a Bosch1617 router that I put in a rockler table. I researched the heck out of it before i purchased the table but not knowing what I was doing apparently cost me. It looks like the largest bit I can use with the table and insert is 2.5" and every raised panel bit set I see online with a cove profile is 3" or larger. Am I missing something or did I screw up? What are my options?
 

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It looks like the largest bit I can use with the table and insert is 2.5" and every raised panel bit set I see online with a cove profile is 3" or larger. Am I missing something or did I screw up? What are my options?
Options may be :
a) Use smaller dia cove raised panel bit, one link
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raised_panel_router_bits1.html
b)Make a custom base with larger hole. I would not be eager to be spinning a 3in or larger bit in a router, although we may find out many folks do this.
c) Look for a vertical raised panel bit. One link.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raised_panel_router_bits2.html
 

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John
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I had finally started narrowing down the router bit set I wanted to buy after asking for advice on here. But now I'm totally confused again. I have a Bosch1617 router that I put in a rockler table. I researched the heck out of it before i purchased the table but not knowing what I was doing apparently cost me. It looks like the largest bit I can use with the table and insert is 2.5" and every raised panel bit set I see online with a cove profile is 3" or larger. Am I missing something or did I screw up? What are my options?
It depends, if you ordered the large plate, the hole is 3-11/16" so you could get one of their blank inserts and drill it out for a larger bit. If you got their standard plate the hole is only 3-1/4" so you could try running it without an insert. 3" bit would be about the max you could run though. The Bosch will throw the bit OK, just need to dial the speed way down and make extra passes.:smile:
Daves' suggestions will also work for you, although If you go that way I would suggest stacked feather boards to help keep the panel tight against the fence. I'm not a big fan of running tall panels vertically on the table.
 

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Funny you posted this. I have the 1617 in that router plate. I got a cmt raised panel set and never thought to pay attention to the opening. Since I built my own router table, I'm waiting for my jessem master lift II to get here and moving the rockler plate to the wing in my table saw.
 

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Another option, albeit not a pretty one, is to mount the bit in the router above the table, and then put a false top on it. This might be a piece of 1/2" (0r 1/4") MDF, with a hole cut in it to go around the bit. It then gets double stick taper to the RT top. It doesn't have to butt up against the fence precisely, but would need to be close. I see this as kind of a last resort workaround.
 

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John
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There is one more option although not necessarily a good one for a novice router user. Large bits CAN be done handheld by changing the bearing to vary the depth of cut, at least 3 and possibly 4 bearings would be needed. A great deal of thought would also need to be put into the jigging to keep the panel solid also.:eek:

Dave's first option is likely the best. Depending on the width of your doors, a large cove may not be attractively proportional. I would go ahead and rough out the size panels you will actually need, accounting for rail and stile width. You may find you have a non-issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am good with using a smaller diameter cove bit but I was hoping for one with the back cutter. Does anybody know of a set with a back cutter that has the smaller diameter? The sommerfeld bits are definitely out since they are 3 1/2" and the katana bits require an opening of 3 1/8. The opening in the plate is 3 1/4 with no insert so that would be really close and i'm not sure that's a good idea but maybe you guys can advise me better on that. I really think 3 inches is max. The first cabinet is 70 inches long end to end and will have two sets of double doors. So by my math the doors will be roughly 15-16 inches each right? I don't want shaker style doors so I really want to find a cove bit that will work. Not so much worried about the doors in the shop kitchen where these cabinets are going but my next project is a hutch that will go in the house so I know I will want doors that match the cove raised panels in my house kitchen.
 

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John
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I am good with using a smaller diameter cove bit but I was hoping for one with the back cutter. Does anybody know of a set with a back cutter that has the smaller diameter? The sommerfeld bits are definitely out since they are 3 1/2" and the katana bits require an opening of 3 1/8. The opening in the plate is 3 1/4 with no insert so that would be really close and i'm not sure that's a good idea but maybe you guys can advise me better on that. I really think 3 inches is max. The first cabinet is 70 inches long end to end and will have two sets of double doors. So by my math the doors will be roughly 15-16 inches each right? I don't want shaker style doors so I really want to find a cove bit that will work. Not so much worried about the doors in the shop kitchen where these cabinets are going but my next project is a hutch that will go in the house so I know I will want doors that match the cove raised panels in my house kitchen.
3 1/8 bit in a 3 1/4 hole will work OK. That gives you a 1/16" clearance which is fine. The back cut doesn't really need to be done in the same pass and can be done with a straight bit, mortising bit or almost any other bit. You are really just making the tongue. Most back cutters will have a slight radius to them but, IMO, that is of no consequence as I have yet to figure out the function of that radius. :blink:
 

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I had this same issue with my lock miter bit in my kreg router table. The hole just wasn't big enough for the bit. I ended up using a 1/2" piece of ply and made a false top that I was able to put under the fence and the fence clamped it in place. It worked well.
 
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