What is the actual piece or pieces that need drilling (including sizes), and where on them? What size hole? A drill press is your best bet. It should have a depth stop for the throw.will be more in the range of 100-500.
A drill press is doable, I have one in the shop. Just need the holes to be completely precise, guess some trial and error.
Any advice on making some blocks/shims, also any pictures for reference that you know of?
Haha woa, er would you mind giving me some further reading info? That is all a bit beyond me but I do want to do this right so willing to put the time into researching before making any purchases/drillsAs an x aerospace machinist for real precision drilling we always knocked off the drill chuck and fitted a tapered collet holder, the run out is reduced to almost zero(providing the drill bit was a quality one) . Most quality collet holders range from 1/16" to 5/8" without a quality drop off. If a drill chuck has to be used then it will run truer if the bit is 'chuckle' properly , this means gradually tightening ALL three holes in rotation (each hole tightens one jaw). Do I practise this , honestly, rarely, I use the other old machinist trick and tap the drill bit (while the drill is running) until the bit runs true. Slap. My wrist.
No no no, you have been very helpful. I am asking these questions to be confused. The more I am confused the more reading I can do, thus the more I can learn.Okay, on the vast majority of drill presses the chuck is attached by a tapered shank ( often called a Morse taper) a drill press chuck is almost always a three jaw chuck identical to a lathe. Each jaw has it own tightening hole ( the one you put the key in), the correct method of fitting an item into the chuck is to tighter each jaw gradually and in order ( yep a lot of people think these holes are spaced around the chuck for convenience). Now do we bother to do that, no, so an old machinist trick is to run the drill and gently tap the drill bit until it runs true (and don't let the boss catch you).the alternative to this in to remove the chuck and replace it with a Morse taper collet holder, basically this is like a router collet in a drill. You can buy a collet holder and a whole set of collets, from 1/16" up to ? . Not cheap but we are talking precision here (0.001 max runout and 0.001 out of round). To help with the confusion you can also buy 'tapping collets' for cutting threads and in the larger sizes morse tapered drill bits. Sorry I have probably caused more confusion than ever. So try the old machinist trick first.