[gnl.weirdness]

Would anyone recommend the best way to set up a template to bore out 4 holes at roughly 1mm-6mms deep in the corners of a small rectangle?

I have dremels and routers, just curious what would be able to do such a precise bore.

 

[woodnthings]

It's not the depth so much

Use a drill press! If you really need precision, it's the only way I know.
How big are the holes and will a standard Forstner bit be the correct size? 3/8" 3/4" etc? The depth can be controlled visually to a mark or by putting a various blocks or one with steps under the quill to bottom out upon. OR one block with precise shims to the different depths.
How many of the pieces will you need, 5 or 500? You can use a MDF template or aluminum for greater production quantities.

 

[gnl.weirdness]

will be more in the range of 100-500.

A drill press is doable, I have one in the shop. Just need the holes to be completely precise, guess some trial and error.

Any advice on making some blocks/shims, also any pictures for reference that you know of?

Cheers

 

[cabinetman]

will be more in the range of 100-500.

A drill press is doable, I have one in the shop. Just need the holes to be completely precise, guess some trial and error.

Any advice on making some blocks/shims, also any pictures for reference that you know of?

Cheers

What is the actual piece or pieces that need drilling (including sizes), and where on them? What size hole? A drill press is your best bet. It should have a depth stop for the throw.

What drill press do you have?

.

 

[MT Stringer]

Drill press with stop blocks set up to insure you drill in the same spot every time. And a stop on the press depth gauge to insure the same depth each time.

 

[FrankC]

Drill press and a drill press table so you can set up some guides, holes will be as accurate as your set up.

You didn't mention diameter of the holes, use a forestner bit if possible for a clean hole.

 

[yank]

I read 1mm dia X 6mm deep. Am I wrong or?????

 

[gnl.weirdness]

the hole will be 3-5mm wide and 2mm deep.

I have not purchased a drill press yet, thought I had one I could rely on on craigslist, but that literally just fell through.

I am making these holes to hold magnets to keep a very small container shut. I am going to also bore one of the magnets in further (so a 2mm magnet would be put into a 3mm hole, and the counter part 2mm magnet would be put into a 1mm hole for additional holding power/prevent from sliding open).

I am open to advice on drill presses for sure.

 

[FrankC]

Almost any drill press will work for holes that small, depending on the throat depth that you require.

Since the holes a quite shallow you might want to try an end mill for a nice flat bottomed hole:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2mm-Carbide...566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item20d589e906

 

[gnl.weirdness]

yeah was looking at some endmill type bits. Thanks for the share that one looks great, and it's graded for metal so it should last forever on wood/hardwood.

Now to figure out a decent drill press for around $200

 

[MT Stringer]

Regardless of what drill press you wind up with, a good table will make you love your drill press. That way, you control your work piece and stops, clamps, fence, etc.

Mike

 

[tonyuno]

As an x aerospace machinist for real precision drilling we always knocked off the drill chuck and fitted a tapered collet holder, the run out is reduced to almost zero(providing the drill bit was a quality one) . Most quality collet holders range from 1/16" to 5/8" without a quality drop off. If a drill chuck has to be used then it will run truer if the bit is 'chuckle' properly , this means gradually tightening ALL three holes in rotation (each hole tightens one jaw). Do I practise this , honestly, rarely, I use the other old machinist trick and tap the drill bit (while the drill is running) until the bit runs true. Slap. My wrist.

 

[gnl.weirdness]

As an x aerospace machinist for real precision drilling we always knocked off the drill chuck and fitted a tapered collet holder, the run out is reduced to almost zero(providing the drill bit was a quality one) . Most quality collet holders range from 1/16" to 5/8" without a quality drop off. If a drill chuck has to be used then it will run truer if the bit is 'chuckle' properly , this means gradually tightening ALL three holes in rotation (each hole tightens one jaw). Do I practise this , honestly, rarely, I use the other old machinist trick and tap the drill bit (while the drill is running) until the bit runs true. Slap. My wrist.

Haha woa, er would you mind giving me some further reading info? That is all a bit beyond me but I do want to do this right so willing to put the time into researching before making any purchases/drills

 

[tonyuno]

Okay, on the vast majority of drill presses the chuck is attached by a tapered shank ( often called a Morse taper) a drill press chuck is almost always a three jaw chuck identical to a lathe. Each jaw has it own tightening hole ( the one you put the key in), the correct method of fitting an item into the chuck is to tighter each jaw gradually and in order ( yep a lot of people think these holes are spaced around the chuck for convenience). Now do we bother to do that, no, so an old machinist trick is to run the drill and gently tap the drill bit until it runs true (and don't let the boss catch you).the alternative to this in to remove the chuck and replace it with a Morse taper collet holder, basically this is like a router collet in a drill. You can buy a collet holder and a whole set of collets, from 1/16" up to ? . Not cheap but we are talking precision here (0.001 max runout and 0.001 out of round). To help with the confusion you can also buy 'tapping collets' for cutting threads and in the larger sizes morse tapered drill bits. Sorry I have probably caused more confusion than ever. So try the old machinist trick first.

 

[gnl.weirdness]

Okay, on the vast majority of drill presses the chuck is attached by a tapered shank ( often called a Morse taper) a drill press chuck is almost always a three jaw chuck identical to a lathe. Each jaw has it own tightening hole ( the one you put the key in), the correct method of fitting an item into the chuck is to tighter each jaw gradually and in order ( yep a lot of people think these holes are spaced around the chuck for convenience). Now do we bother to do that, no, so an old machinist trick is to run the drill and gently tap the drill bit until it runs true (and don't let the boss catch you).the alternative to this in to remove the chuck and replace it with a Morse taper collet holder, basically this is like a router collet in a drill. You can buy a collet holder and a whole set of collets, from 1/16" up to ? . Not cheap but we are talking precision here (0.001 max runout and 0.001 out of round). To help with the confusion you can also buy 'tapping collets' for cutting threads and in the larger sizes morse tapered drill bits. Sorry I have probably caused more confusion than ever. So try the old machinist trick first.

No no no, you have been very helpful. I am asking these questions to be confused. The more I am confused the more reading I can do, thus the more I can learn.

Tony any chance you can PM me? If that's available on this forum?

Cheers mate.