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What a Great Forum !

Over the years I have done many different styles and types of built-in's but the ones that I always enjoy doing are one's that are unique and challenging. I have built several Custom BookShelf Doors and have included a Link to a Photo site for you to view.
http://finishers.myphotoalbum.com
These Custom Doors are always built mainly to hide a room and give the owners great enjoyment when they show their guests.
#1 Door leads into a computer room set up with 4 computer stations for the whole family.
#2 is conveinently hiding a large storage space
#3 secretly keeps a large messy playroom hidden from guests.
Consideration has to be given to the "heavy" loads that may be exerted on them.
I always try to use a swivel caster on the leading edge of the door when the floor permits it. However, as we all know floors are not always level...so I have to resort to ballbearing hinges "well mounted" and pray that the kids don't swing on it :laughing: .

Looking forward to any comments or question.
I may post some other pictures of my work later.
DUSTY
 

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Those are awesome. I am actually glad you put those up. I am actually doing a job that has a book case door right now. Here is my main concerns, and maybe you could help me answer them. It looks like your doors swing into the secret room, and are flush with the wall of the main room. The job i am working on is all stain grade, and calls for a whole wall of book shelves, and for the door to swing into the main room. the only way I think I can do this is to put a thick fluting seperating each book case section, and for the one with the door, I would have to have some space behind the fluting, so it can open, without the back of the door hitting the other book cases. let me know if you understand what I am talking about. but your doors look good, I am also curious to know what kind of hardware you used and how you open them. thanks
clint
 

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Clint,
Thanks for your reply.
I fully understand what your are asking. :thumbsup:
The 'swing' of bookshelf doors is alway the main concern.
Be it in or out.... you still have to allow for substantial clearance so it will swing freely. I always mock up a piece with the hinge on it and play with it until I have the correct clearance. "Hardware".... well like I said I always try and use a swivel castor on the bottom leading edge - hidden behind a false kick or base. This will take a good portion of the leading edge load, but like the problem I had with uneven floors, I had to make sure my mounting jamb / gable was substantial in thickness and stiffness to take the mounting of the four pairs of 4" ball bearing hinges with at least 1" screws. Your gables may not be thick enough so you might have to used some form of back up blocks for the screws.
Auhhhhh....the question...how do I keep it closed :icon_wink: . Well I don't mind sharing my secret...we're all here for the same reason....right :blink: . . .. 'for the good of wood' . I use a barrel type roller catch in the top leading edge. I find this to be a good method and quite adjustable for a positive firm hold. The ones I use take up about 7/8" in depth and 1" in dia. and fit snug in a bored hole.
I hope this may have helped.
One other note I might mention is that when the door is swung closed.... and sometimes this is done by people without caution... or even the wind...is that the books or whatever will fly off onto the floor. I always try to convince the owner to have a nosing on the shelves protruding up at least 1/2". However, if you can't do that because of the surounding shelves...just warn them that it may happen :yes: .
Good Luck with your project.
Dusty
 

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Really cool doors!
I've done that in the past as well. Found the heavy rubber swivel type wheels work best.
The nicest door I did was in a formal library, one of the bookcases swung open to a stairwell leading to a game room and trophy room in a basement.
 
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