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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a simple 3 piece jig made from 1/4" x 96" x 7" hardboard an 3/4" x 2 3/4" oak and 3 toggle clamps. It will put a straight edge on a board while holding it safely. This is a ripping operation and a splitter should be used.
You can see in the last photo the curved off fall on the left of the blade.
 

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very nice. I have been wanting to make one like that. I have seen clamps online that are made doing this, but this way is easy enough. Do you have different sizes, for say 12'-16'ers?
 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not that long

This one is for 8 footers and shorter, which fits most of my hardwood stock but for longer pieces I would prefer moving a circular saw against a straight edge rather than a long board on the table saw. Only problem is finding a "straight" straight edge that long....:laughing: bill
BTW those are HF toggle clamps I think they were $5.00 or so.

 
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I've done it a few times. I took my 8' straight clamped it to the stock then took 14' of 1-1/2X3/4" pine and clamped it tight to the straight edge. Move the straight edge down enough to maintain straight and continue clamping.

If I'm creating ext. trim for a house I always hand pick "Clear & Better" or "Eastern White Pine" which is much finer than (finish or select pine) -0- knots, straighter grain less cup and crown. When there is a crown if it's severe enough I snap an edge line and either plane it or use my trim saw on it.
 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Scott!

Now that's the way you do it! :thumbsup:
That's the way I do it now, after different methods weren't satisfactory or safe. The shoe at the end keeps the board from working it's way toward me, the operator, and the toggles are a quick way to hold and release the work. It took a while for this idea to sink in, but I'm really pleased with it since I work with a lot of milled lumber.
Hope others can use the idea! ;) bill
 

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I don't really get the idea of trying to clamp your material with those toggles against the very flexible pressed board.
 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yah, I thought so too

I don't really get the idea of trying to clamp your material with those toggles against the very flexible pressed board.
But when the board is clamped to it it becomes rigid enough to run through the saw. You know jigs are always a work in progress, so I will keep an open mind as to what works and what doesn't. The thin Masonite I used rough side up to provide more "grip", but I may replace it with a 3/8" or 1/2" piece of ply. I wanted to maximize my depth of cut by using the thinnest board possible...I can always go thicker if need be. I also wanted the off fall to drop as little as possible to prevent a bounce back into the blade.

A roll of 60 grit sandpaper, glued down on top would also keep the work from shifting around, but with a sharp blade there really isn't that much force on the work to move it. I just want to be a safe as possible, you know about Murphy's Law....:laughing: bill
 

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Interesting, I've seen that kind of jig before, but it was made to run in the mitre slot. Yours is made to run against the fence, right? That's a pretty good idea, as it makes it more flexible with width of wood you deal with.
 

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If very long pieces need to be cut (10' - 18'), I've used two cuts off of a 1/4" sheet of tempered masonite. That'll give you 16' of straight edge. Tack them down on top of the wood with #4 finish nails in tandem. You only need about 3 nails per section, which those ity bity holes can easily be dealt with later.

On long thick boards, and if narrow, rigging up a straight edge to be used with a handheld circular saw can be problematic if you have no room for the shoe of the saw, and the width of the straight edge.

Besides, 8/4 and thicker might be a bit too much for some saws.






 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're welcome!

That why we are here, learning and sharing. :thumbsup:
Here's another jig in You Tube video. I like mine better, but that's just my biased opinion. :laughing: bill

 
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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
off fall drop distance

If you use a thick base say 3/4" rather than 1/4" the piece will fall 3/4" when the cut is completed. It might bounce a little and into the blade but not necessarily, as it falls. This is not fixed in stone, but just a precaution I wanted to try on this jig. Keeping the base thin also allows for a greater depth of cut. ;) bill
 

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Flowers....

This is a simple 3 piece jig made from 1/4" x 96" x 7" hardboard an 3/4" x 2 3/4" oak and 3 toggle clamps. It will put a straight edge on a board while holding it safely. This is a ripping operation an a splitter should be used. :thumbsup: bill
You can see in the last photo the curved off fall on the left of the blade.
In your first pic, it appears, at first glance, that the clamps you have there looks like a bouqet of flowers. :laughing:
 

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woodnthings - I know this is a very very old post but I am just curious if you still use this jig and what, if any, improvements you made to this jig?

Thanks - Bob
 

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where's my table saw?
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
yes....

I added 2 more toggles, one in the center and one on the far end. I find I only need 2 for clamping, but the length of the board to be cut determines which of the toggles I will use.
 

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Another great idea. I have built something very similar using 80/20 alum with a track that clamps to the table saw fence. I use a stop with a steel pin at the end and run it through as any other board with a straight edge. Will post a pic when I get a chance
 
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