Woodworking Talk banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Wood Snob
Joined
·
5,963 Posts
mike1950 said:
The grain at the bottom is incredible. Nice job- turning and finishing. Ask 20 different people about finish and you will get 26 answers........ I use General wipe on- finish for dummies...........
Good for you. I do to for the most part. Anything but poly.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,651 Posts
Good for you. I do to for the most part. Anything but poly.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
Wow you are on a roll today Al- general wipe on poly /oil amor/seal
Different strokes for different folks. :thumbsup:
 

·
Wood Snob
Joined
·
5,963 Posts
mike1950 said:
Wow you are on a roll today Al- general wipe on poly /oil amor/seal
Different strokes for different folks. :thumbsup:
Turpentine and paste wax is a favorite for some things. Lacquer,Shellac. With all the choices, why use poly. Oh right it's hard.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,208 Posts
That's because all you guys forget the best product to thin with, turp. It also makes the finish stronger because unlike min spir. it leaves solids behind that bind with the finish. Try it.

When I use BLO I never just wipe it on and wipe it off. You gota let it soak in and keep mopping it on until it stops. No need to wipe off the excess. Just put down the rag and keep rubbing it in till it starts to feel dry. Look it over. If you see more finish coming up. Keep rubbing it in with your hands. Your going to spend a while doing this. Then you really get a great first coat. It's much deeper into the wood and that's what makes it a great finish. My grandfather told me to forget about the instructions on the can. That's the way it was done before the can had instructions.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
The only problem with your comments is I don't normally thin these products with anything. I agree turpentine is a better solvent but the last time I tried to buy some I had to get a substitue called turpenoid at a arts and craft store.

Today there isn't much instructions on finishing products. There isn't room with hazzard warnings in multiple languages.
 

·
Maker of sawdust
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
0000 Steel wool

This is one of those project that I can't afford to mess up on the final outcome. With shellac it sort of melts the last coat you applied and blends in, hence leaves very little in the way of scratch marks when knocking down the finish. With this a lot more is at risk one half no void while the burl half full of pin holes and one major crack. Do you still recommend 0000SW or use maybe 800 - 1000 wet / dry. If SW do you think it will get caught on burl side. I know it sounds like an easy question but most of my SW experience is on big areas boat hulls.

Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Another cool trick especially small project is to warm the piece in the oven until warm, then finish. Heat opens the pores and the finish chases the heat, thus, a deeper penetration
 

·
Maker of sawdust
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
finished platter

As promised here is the final product less a little shine it turned out okay. May buff with ( not sure with what yet ) to give it a more warm appearance. just a little shinny for my taste.

Jerry
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
Red oak finish

I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet.

The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??

Would adding BLO to my poly and mineral spirits darken it or blend it together better with many coats? Using the once a day for a week, once a week for a month approach??

Any thoughts, ideas, input or wisecracks greatly appreciated. JIm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,208 Posts
I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet.

The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??

Would adding BLO to my poly and mineral spirits darken it or blend it together better with many coats? Using the once a day for a week, once a week for a month approach??

Any thoughts, ideas, input or wisecracks greatly appreciated. JIm
No, BLO and or mineral spirits won't affect the color to oil based poly and is incompatable with water base. Also an oil based poly may not be a good product for natural oak. Exposed to sunlight an oil base poly tends to yellow over time.

Your easiest solution would be to get some more wood that matches. The only other option would be to stain the lighter boards with a dye stain to match the darker boards. This is very hard to do and not get it on the darker boards. You would have to have the means of spraying the dye to even make the attempt.
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,027 Posts
I have some leftover red oak which I want to use for a oriental step cabinet.

The wood bought at various times has many different grains and colors to it. I like a natural finish but afraid this time there is too much variance in color?? I suspect it would not look right??

Would adding BLO to my poly and mineral spirits darken it or blend it together better with many coats? Using the once a day for a week, once a week for a month approach??

Any thoughts, ideas, input or wisecracks greatly appreciated. JIm
Adding BLO to an already mixed oil base polyurethane won't change the color it will impart, but will significantly soften the finish, and take longer to cure. It may not ever achieve the same durability as it would have been if left out. Once an oil base like that has been applied and cured, it can be compatible with a waterbase polyurethane.






.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
I do not know how my post ended up here?? I thought I started a new topic. Gremlins or old age? Will try to repost at a later time as a new topic.
JIm
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top