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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Freud Fusion P410 on my TS....have used it for a couple of years....built 2 sets of kitchen cabinets.....everything was fine, until last week...I ripped the eased edges of of 6 framing 2x4's....this morning, I started cutting some soft maple to build a small clock, and the blade is burning every cut.....

Is this a simple fix of cleaning the blade in mineral spirits, or is it time for a new blade and return this for sharpening?.....thanks for your help.....
 

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I have a Freud Fusion P410 on my TS....have used it for a couple of years....built 2 sets of kitchen cabinets.....everything was fine, until last week...I ripped the eased edges of of 6 framing 2x4's....this morning, I started cutting some soft maple to build a small clock, and the blade is burning every cut.....

Is this a simple fix of cleaning the blade in mineral spirits, or is it time for a new blade and return this for sharpening?.....thanks for your help.....
Likely it needs to be sharpened, but first try cleaning. Framing lumber is softwood and the resins can build up on the side of the teeth. Cleaning is quick. Ensure you get any resin/crub off the sides and face of the teeth as well as the blade steel.

Even after cleaning you may find it needs to be sharpened, not bad after 2 years.
 

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You should be able to feel the tip of the blade and se if it is dull or not. Some 2x4's just smoke even if you put a brand new blade on. A lot depends on the sap content and sometimes the boards just close and pinch the blade as it is cutting. This alone is enough to cause it to smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should be able to feel the tip of the blade and se if it is dull or not. Some 2x4's just smoke even if you put a brand new blade on. A lot depends on the sap content and sometimes the boards just close and pinch the blade as it is cutting. This alone is enough to cause it to smoke.
Steve, it's even burning soft maple, 3/4" thick....I'll take the blade off, clean it, and see what happens......but then, I need a second blade, anyways....thanks for the help, all.....
 

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So this brings up a question I've always had a hard time with....how do you determine blade/knives are dull and need sharpening.

I've run 400-500 bf of oak and maple through my dewalt 735 planer on the original knives...still comes out nice and smooth...but given that everyone says the stock knives are junk I have I think mine are dull??

Same thing on my table saw blades, they still cut fine, but should I be sending them off periodically to get sharpened?

How do you all decide when it's time
 

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So this brings up a question I've always had a hard time with....how do you determine blade/knives are dull and need sharpening.
A very good question - blades, knives, turning tools.

For my turning tools, I am getting a feel for how they should cut. In general I will re-hone if any doubt since a fresh edge is always going to cut better.

For my table saw blade, I clean periodically depending on the woods I have been cutting. Some build up on the blade more than others.

When I am cleaning the blade, after all debris is removed, I inspect every tooth. If any tooth is chipped, time to send out for sharpening.

If I feel the blade is clean but not cutting as well as normal, time to send out to get sharpened. I do not have black-and-white method to determine when to sharpen, it is just gut feel.

For the planer, I replace the blade due to nicks more than dull. With the 735 blades, I cannot move one blade to the side to clear up a nick, so if I get a bad nick, time to change.

Another time to change is when the wood should be feeding through the planer, but needs assistance. I check the rollers, but if clean, then likely the blades are dull. Replace and it is amazing how easy it will then plane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I removed the blade and looked at it under a magnifying glass....cleaned it well (didn't look all that bad), and re-installed it. This past week, I moved my saw to the center of the shop, and built an outfeed table....just as a precaution, I checked to ensure the fence was parallel to the blade, and it is....so, I'm going to order another Fusion, and send this one back to Freud to be sharpened.

What I like about this forum is that I can ask what I think is a rather amateur question, and it turns into a a really good discussion...Thanks, everyone for the help.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FWIW, maple can burn easier than many woods. Clean the blade often. Double check the blade to fence alignment, and try raising the blade a tad higher. It's also best if the wood is flat and straight prior to ripping.
Ran it through the jointer and planer yesterday, and it is flat and straight.....ran my finger on the tips, and they definitely are not as sharp as they were when new....but then, that's to be expected.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Follow-up.....I went back out to the shop, removed the Freud and replaced it with the combo blade that came with the saw (saw very little use before I changed blades).....ripped a piece of soft maple, and no more burning.....so, at least I have a blade until the new Freud comes in....thanks, again, all.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just an update, because I don't like to leave things unfinished :yes:.....I received my new Fusion blade and installed it.....checked everything again, and the old blade was definitely dull....the new blade cuts perfectly...no burning, no drag...reminds me of when the saw was brand new......happy, happy.....thanks for all the help.....
 

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