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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This Black Walnut Rocking Chair was designed using Pro Engineer CAD software. We gave it as a Christmas present to a very close friend recovering from brain tumor surgery. The accents on the seat and lower support were 'burned" in. These chairs are a joy to build and present.
 

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Wow! Beautiful lines on that. Certainly way beyond anything I could create! Hmm, maybe I'm in the wrong forum:huh:
 

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Stunning piece of craftsmanship Stan! Well done. How were the accents burned in? Laser?
 

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That chair is awesome. I love the details, especially the etchings. Wonderful display of craftsmanship. And welcome, I look forward to seeing more of your stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to all of you for your gracious comments. Having just joined the forum yesterday, (01/11/010), I can see that there is quite a lot to take in. I have seen some very cool work from others and hope to get a chance to take a peek at your work, as well.
JohnK007, the "etchings" were done by hand with a woodburning pen; a touchy operation, as the seat is already carved by hand, so I only get one shot at it.
wletson, not really; it just requires lots of patience and a lot of hand tool work. You should try one, you might suprise yourself!
wolfmanyoda, I tell folks that you don't so much sit in this chair, as it "recieves" you. I used to design hospital beds for a living and took a lot of the aspects of comfort and applied them to these chairs. They are very easy to fall asleep in.:sleep1:

Thanks again, all!
 

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What finish did you use?

Very beautiful work. I am just starting four simple dining room chairs in black walnut. I have never used bw before. Would you explain how you finished the wood as I would like to get the same look?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
RE: What Finish Did You Use?

Hey Zircon, I think that Black Walnut is my favorite wood to use. It machines and turns like a dream. I also think that to get the grain on Black Walnut to really "pop", the best finish is good ol' Boiled Linseed Oil, (BLO).
Of course, surface prep is very important. I don't sand all that much. I scrape with a card scraper all over. I then sand from 220 grit through 600 grit and remove the sanding dust. One of the best ways is to brush it off, and/or vacuum, then go over the entire piece with mineral spirits and a rag. This will remove most of the remaining dust, AND show you how the color is going to turn out, without raising the grain, (avoid tack rags, they contain wax). It will also show any scratches that will need to be sanded out. Let the mineral spirits dry; it doesn't take too long.
Apply the 1st coat of BLO, flooding all surfaces, let set for about 30 minutes, then simply wipe/buff out with a clean rag. Make sure and go over it again with another clean rag to get any oil that is still setting on top, or you will have shiny spots. Allow to dry 24-48 hours.
Apply the 2nd coat following the same step as above.
For the 3rd coat, I lightly "wet sand", with the grain, using 320 grit sandpaper (3M Sandblaster). This creates a slurry that acts as a filler and leaves the surface smooth like a baby's bottom. Wipe/rub down with a clean rag(s), once again making sure you get everything that didn't soak in. Let dry.
For a final coat I used Sam Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish. You can get it from Rockler. You can also make you own by mixing equal parts of Boiled Linseed Oil, Pure Tung Oil, and Polyurethane. You'll want to rub this mixture out as soon as you get the piece covered. The poly starts to set up rather quickly and if you wait too long, you'll have a hard time getting the excess off. After this final coat is dry, (48 - 72 hours), you have the option of applying and buffing out a coat of paste wax. I use plain old Turtle wax. This gives it a satiny smooth feel that will amaze people, (how did you get it soooo smooth?).
This may seem a little tedious, but the results are well worth it. You can even use an old fashoined technique and heat the BLO to 120 - 130 degrees/F to help it penetrate better/deeper. I do this and it works great. Oh, and be absolutely sure to lay out the used rags flat to dry thoroughly. If you leave them in a pile they have the potential to spontaneously combust; can't have that! :furious:
I have found that the blue shop rags, (paper towels), that you can get from your local home center work great. They don't leave lint on the surface like cotton rags do.
Give it a try and let us all know how it turns out!
 

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Finish

Thank you for taking the time to describe the finish you used in such detail. I printed out the post and added it to my woodworking library.
 

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Wow !!!

Well, I think I have been humbled by that chair.
Very nicely done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
RE: Do you offer schooling?

Thanks again for your comments.

steamer71/Robert, I'm mulling around the idea of putting together a package of drawings , templates, pdf's, instructions, etc.. for my Rocking Chairs. I don't know if there would be any interest in this, and I wouldn't charge very much for it. I may ask folks in the forum what they think...If I do it will take some time to compile everything.
 
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