[SCADAman29325]

Quick question, I have to drill 30 holes in landscaping timbers for rebar anchors.

What is the right bit to use? I have a few spades, I don't know how long they will last on a job like this.

Probably burn up my 3/8" drill in the process.

Thanks!

 

[FrankC]

It would be essential to know what size rebar and what size timbers before giving an opinion.

 

[Kerrys]

I would use an auger style bit. Your 3/8 drill isn’t going to work. Rent a right angle drill similar to what plumbers and electricians use, 1/2 inch.

 

[woodnthings]

I've used both 3/8" long length twist bits and 3/8" X 18" augers with a 1/2" corded drill. I pre-drill the holes for 12" galvanized spikes for 6" x 8" timbers and nail them in with a 3 lb sledge. After a while it got tiresome, but it helped the spikes go in much easier.
Like they say about clamps, "you can't have too many kinds of drill bits"

 

[JayArr]

I've done what you're suggesting, drilled holes and used cut rebar to anchor the ties in place.

I used a spade bit because it's easier to sharpen with a diamond grit paddle sharpener.

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[John Smith_inFL]

Just out of curiosity, how deep will the rebar go into the ground ?

 

[JayArr]

I cut mine in 2 foot lengths, so 20" underground? Works great, I basically went around the hose and shop with ties about 16" out and then filled in with pea gravel. Nice and neat and no growth next to the house or foundation.

 

[Quickstep]

I would use an auger style bit. Your 3/8 drill isn’t going to work. Rent a (Big Azz) right angle drill similar to what plumbers and electricians use, 1/2 inch.

This would be my choice too. (Note my addition in Kerry’s reply) It will make the job a lot easier and you won’t destroy your 3/8” drill.

 

[R B Fishin]

I don't think you'll have a problem. Building my shed, I drilled at least twenty 1/2" holes in pressure treated 2x and 4x, attaching the posts. I used a new Diablo 1/2" self feeding spade bit. If anything, it cut too fast. Cut a little, back it out to clear chips. My 18V Makita worked fine, but I switched to my 30 year old Craftsman corded drill (because I'd rather replace the Craftsman than the new Makita.) I didn't drill more than 4 holes at a time, so the drill motor never got hot. Both the drill motors and the bit still work as well as they did before the project. Tools are meant to be used.

 

[shoot summ]

I would use something similar to this.

IRWIN Drill Bit Set for Wood, 3-Piece (3041003) - Hex Shank Drill Bits - Amazon.com

IRWIN Drill Bit Set for Wood, 3-Piece (3041003) - Hex Shank Drill Bits - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Rebelwork]

I would use something similar to this.

IRWIN Drill Bit Set for Wood, 3-Piece (3041003) - Hex Shank Drill Bits - Amazon.com

IRWIN Drill Bit Set for Wood, 3-Piece (3041003) - Hex Shank Drill Bits - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

One at a time would be okay, but if he stacks them, he’ll need something longer..
I bought these years ago and still haven't used them.

 

[highfigh]

Three-flute bits, absolutely.

I do low voltage electrical work (Audio/Video, Home Theater, phone & network cabling) and used paddle bits for a long time, but they bend or break when they find a screw, go dull quickly, etc- I started using the Irwin three flute bits in about 2005 and haven't bought a paddle bit since. These also fit any 1/4" extension, so extremely deep boring is possible, but make sure the extension doesn't allow the bit to wobble. For that matter, if you need very long reach to drill a hole, a second extension can be used but I wouldn't do this without the type that doesn't require releasing the bit to remove it. Irwin makes those, too.

 

[shoot summ]

Three-flute bits, absolutely.

I do low voltage electrical work (Audio/Video, Home Theater, phone & network cabling) and used paddle bits for a long time, but they bend or break when they find a screw, go dull quickly, etc- I started using the Irwin three flute bits in about 2005 and haven't bought a paddle bit since. These also fit any 1/4" extension, so extremely deep boring is possible, but make sure the extension doesn't allow the bit to wobble. For that matter, if you need very long reach to drill a hole, a second extension can be used but I wouldn't do this without the type that doesn't require releasing the bit to remove it. Irwin makes those, too.

That is how I discovered them, doing some electrical at the house, suffering through trying to bore through a top plate with a paddle bit. Bought the 3/4" and it was amazing, those bits get busy. I still have a bunch of paddle bits in an organizer, but absolutely never have a reason to use them. Reminds me, I should send them off to Habitat restore...

 

[Wilk3513]

You have gotten lots of good advice here and I am sure all of it will work.
I would recommend that if you are using landscape timbers (approximately 4”x4” with rounded opposing sides) and installing them as a ground border that you consider using pressure treated for ground contact 4”x4” dimensional lumber.
I installed a landscape timber border a number of years ago and after about 5 years it was showing a lot of rot. The dimensional lumber is more expensive but will hold up better over time.

 

[highfigh]

That is how I discovered them, doing some electrical at the house, suffering through trying to bore through a top plate with a paddle bit. Bought the 3/4" and it was amazing, those bits get busy. I still have a bunch of paddle bits in an organizer, but absolutely never have a reason to use them. Reminds me, I should send them off to Habitat restore...

The final straw for me was when I drilled up through the plate of a wall in order to feed some bundled cable into the stud space and as I drilled, I heard a 'plink' as the shank quickly moved forward. That would have been OK, normally, but I hadn't finished drilling through- it broke of, cleanly- this had been removed from the package less than ten minutes before and it was the first time I used it. No nails, screws or other metal in the area, either.

 

[Doboy]

I would NOT use a 3/8 drill. (one time deal? Pick up a HF 1/2" angle drill)
I have drawers full of all types of drill bits. I'm constantly drilling through thick timbers, barn beams, treated, & RR ties.
RR Ties & 6 x 6" treated lumber,,, I'm Drilling slightly undersize holes for re-bar pins or long lag bolts.

Seems like, I always start out with the brad point or auger bits. & Lubricate the sides with a shot of used oil.
OR I just use an extra long H F TWIST steel bit,,,, & sometimes, I'll change the angle on the cutting edge. Ya, You'll have to 'In & Ou' more often, to throw chips, but THEY DO NOT BEND when jammed up or when hitting something hard.

I'd love to see a picture of your project. ?
If your stacking ties or treated timbers for a retaining wall,,, I would place some 'DEAD MAN' concrete mesh on top of each layer of ties, back into the dirt fill.
AND, if your subjected to WINTER frosts, place about 1' of 57 stone behind the ties, then filter fabric, then your earthen fill.
I'd hate to see walls PUSH OVER & out.

 

[woodnthings]

What he said ^.
I use a "dead man" about 3 ft or 4 ft long at right angles to the wall every 8 ft or so, depending.
It gets nailed into the wall making an 8" space when laying the others up tight to it, so I need to account for that added dimension.