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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I drill lots of 3 inch diameter holes through 3/4 inch cedar with a carbide tipped hole saw. I wish I did not need to pry out the slug after drilling the hole. Does anyone know of a hole saw on the market that will effectively eject the slug?
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I've never seen a hole saw that makes it easy to get the slug out easily if you drill all the way through. The easiest thing I've found it to drill almost all the way through and then flip the board over and drill the remainder from the other side. That leaves relatively little wood in the saw and a good amount to grab on to to pull it out. Be careful when you grab the wood. The hole saw can be quite hot.
 

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I find that if the center drill bit is removed from it's housing , the timber plug is released somewhat.

This type looks like a winner


It looks as though it is good for drilling holes for roof vents but nothing much thicker.
 

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I've seen where a smaller hole (3/4"-1") is first drilled inside the proposed larger circumference, very close to the edge of the new hole.
Serves two purposes. Allows the dust to escape so the hole saw doesn't heat up as readily and allows easier removal of the plug.
 

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I have used hole saws for years with the same problem of getting the wood plugs out. But today I was using the hole saw cutting 6 - 2" holes and a light went off. I got my screw gun and a couple of 2" drywall screws, then screwed the drywall screws into the plug - when the screw tip hit the hole saw it pushed the plugs out.
 

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I make a lot of 2-3/4 holes out 3/4 thick wood repeatedly. I have a drill press table with a hookup for a shop vac. I found that if I hook up my shop vac, the suction holds the wood in place and creates enough suction to pull the cut out piece down into the opening in the table where the suction is. I can then CAREFULLY remove the piece without having to turn the drill press of and then drop in the next piece. This seems to work probably 7 out of 10 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I drill 3 inch holes in 3/4 cedar boards. I do not use a drill bit with the saw. I have a wooded base/table on my drill press that has dowel pins for stops. I took the earlier post advise and drilled 1/2 way through, then flipped the board over to finish. I drilled 400 holes that way without any of the pucks getting stuck. Great advise,
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I have a set of really cheap hole saws... I think I paid about ten bucks for them, seven or eight years ago. I don't need to use them often, so they still work pretty well. They have holes in the top that a screwdriver will fit through, which makes popping the plug out trivial.

Do the high-end hole saws really not have that?
 

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I have a set of really cheap hole saws... I think I paid about ten bucks for them, seven or eight years ago. I don't need to use them often, so they still work pretty well. They have holes in the top that a screwdriver will fit through, which makes popping the plug out trivial.

Do the high-end hole saws really not have that?
Some of the high end ones have an ejector spring.
My set is not so fancy , it has a slot in the sidewall where a screwdriver can nudge the puck out .
Removing the drill bit makes it easier to do .
Unscrewing the saw from the arbor helps too.
 
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