Best method for joining angled legs to credenza.

Well, I have the DF-500 and the DF-700 Domino machines, so I would pick the best one for the thickness of the piece of wood, and use the largest domino allowed…. And West System Epoxy..


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My choice would be a pinned mortise and tenon.

Nice work!

Looks like there is an apron of sorts in addition to the legs? If so is there a similar detail on the end and back sides?

This could be as simple as pocket holes with some dowel or domino reinforcement. In addition to mechanical fastening, a good adhesive should be used too.

Do you intend to make the support base separate from the cabinet?

Rebelwork said:

Do you intend to make the support base separate from the cabinet?

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I didn’t intend to make it separate but that’s an interesting idea.

shoot summ said:

Nice work!

Looks like there is an apron of sorts in addition to the legs? If so is there a similar detail on the end and back sides?

This could be as simple as pocket holes with some dowel or domino reinforcement. In addition to mechanical fastening, a good adhesive should be used too.

Click to expand...

I think the apron will only be on the front so the back legs will be free standing.
I am leaning towards pocket holes and dowels with an adhesive. I’m thinking though now that extending the apron around the sides and back and making the support stand separately and then attaching it once it’s assembled might be a sturdier option.

Rmg27653 said:

I think the apron will only be on the front so the back legs will be free standing.
I am leaning towards pocket holes and dowels with an adhesive. I’m thinking though now that extending the apron around the sides and back and making the support stand separately and then attaching it once it’s assembled might be a sturdier option.

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I think that is a solid plan, the apron at least on the sides gives it more continuity IMO, across the back fortifies it all as a base.

Rmg27653 said:

I am in the last stages of assembling a mid-century modern solid walnut credenza. It is quite heavy. I am looking for the best, most structurally sound ideas for joining the angled legs to the bottom of the credenza. I don’t have access to a lathe so they'll be rectangular as demonstrated in the design. Ideally I’d like to avoid metal cleats but if that is the best way to accomplish the job I’m open to it.

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What you have drawn looks fine. On each end where you have skirt attached to the legs, as long as the skirt is firmly attached to the legs you could just put screws from underneath into the cabinet. Then furniture manufacturers generally glue corner blocking into the skirt for additional strength. If you wish to do it better you might rabbet the skirt and the top of the legs on the inside side and glue and nail a piece of 1/2" plywood. It would help hold everything together and give more places to put screws up into the cabinet.

Rmg27653 said:

I think the apron will only be on the front so the back legs will be free standing.
I am leaning towards pocket holes and dowels with an adhesive. I’m thinking though now that extending the apron around the sides and back and making the support stand separately and then attaching it once it’s assembled might be a sturdier option.

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I would make two end panels that form the legs. A cut away center portion would create separate "feet".
The assembly would consist of a top and an angled leg as described above, glued and pinned and reinforced with glue blocks on the inside.
The assembly would be quite strong and resist splaying of the leg panels.
Simply screw it up from the bottom into the base of the cabinet. Close off the ends with "faux feet" if you want that look.

Other ideas here:

Awesome! That looks great

Rmg27653 said:

Awesome! That looks great

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Keep in mind that the above method relies on the fastener, a single screw, and the end grain in the legs to hold fast in spite of any lateral forces tending to pull it out.
They do look very good, that's for sure, but in my experience, end grain and screws are not the most secure. Suit yourself, however.

What @JohnGi suggested - screws (really bolts) but with threaded inserts and screwed from the bottom. You can run three thru the angled pieces that attach to the legs into the bottom of the cabinet. Countersink the screws to equal lengths into the angled pieces. Those angled pieces can be slot mortised into the legs. The leg can be doweled into the bottom of the cabinet.

I said pinned tenon b/c with the design the critical factor is securing the leg to the ”apron”, not the leg to the cabinet. Personal taste but I think it’s great as opposed to a single leg.

Just me, and my thinking the focus is on the wrong issue.

Well, that's all well and fine, but in johnGi's example there is no apron. He screwed them to the cabinet bottom.
The singular legs look better, just my opinion. But in any case, the attachment must be very secure.
The issue with any splayed leg, whether part of an apron or singular is that any downforce wants to splay the leg out further and rip out the screw(s) that secure it.
Now. load up the cabinet with heavy books or records and set it into motion sideways and you've got the worst of conditions.
If a leg bumps an obstruction the momentum will be magnified.

woodnthings said:

Well, that's all well and fine, but in johnGi's example there is no apron. He screwed them to the cabinet bottom.
The singular legs look better, just my opinion. But in any case, the attachment must be very secure.
The issue with any splayed leg, whether part of an apron or singular is that any downforce wants to splay the leg out further and rip out the screw(s) that secure it.
Now. load up the cabinet with heavy books or records and set it into motion sideways and you've got the worst of conditions.
If a leg bumps an obstruction the momentum will be magnified.

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His legs have enough width and are proving to be fine. The OP’s drawing indicates they are oriented parallel. But thanks for making my point lots of forces to figure out 😁