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The internet has finally failed me. Usually it knows what I'm searching for before I even begin typing. But when it comes to finding the best saw blade for ripping hardwoods, alas, I have won the battle.

Wondering what people consider the best blades for ripping hardwoods, specifically for creating the cleanest edge for glue ups?

I've been primarily using my 7 1/4" circular saw with track system to rip clean edges for glue ups. It works better than my cheap table saw and is more fool proof. But I want to find the best blade possible for this purpose, and there seems to be nothing on the internet pertaining to the topic. There are a ton of 10" table saw blades that fit the bill, but it's been hard to find a high end circular saw blade. I wish Freud would make their Glue Line rip blade in 7 1/4" diameter.

Would love to hear your thoughts!
 

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CharleyL
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Freud Glue Line Rip blade is the best that I have seen for this. I have one and have been very satisfied with the results that I get with it, but I don't know if it's available in 7 1/4". Mine is a 10" for my table saw.

Charley
 

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where's my table saw?
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The internet has finally failed me. Usually it knows what I'm searching for before I even begin typing. But when it comes to finding the best saw blade for ripping hardwoods, alas, I have won the battle.

Wondering what people consider the best blades for ripping hardwoods, specifically for creating the cleanest edge for glue ups?

I've been primarily using my 7 1/4" circular saw with track system to rip clean edges for glue ups. It works better than my cheap table saw and is more fool proof. But I want to find the best blade possible for this purpose, and there seems to be nothing on the internet pertaining to the topic. There are a ton of 10" table saw blades that fit the bill, but it's been hard to find a high end circular saw blade. I wish Freud would make their Glue Line rip blade in 7 1/4" diameter.

Would love to hear your thoughts!
I have all the expensive glue line rip blades and they get good ratings, but I came across this video today and I was pretty astonished at his conclusion:
 

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Summarizing @woodnthings' post:
The person making the video argues that a Freud 7-1/4 inch blade with a 1/16 inch kerf makes cleaner and better rip cuts in a 10 inch table saw for ordinary boards. The maximum cutting height is too low for thicker boards. He describes multiple benefits that result, and a couple of drawbacks. The video has four pauses for ads in a short video, a bit greedy (?) for me, sorry. (It leads me to question his motives.)

I am not going to argue whether he is right or wrong.

My message is that you cannot use a 7-1/4 inch blade on a SawStop table saw. It will refuse to run with that blade installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for finding that. Pretty interesting. Makes sense from a physics standpoint. I do wonder though, with such a thin blade, how resistant to side loading will it be? I imagine part of the effectiveness of good rip blades is their rigidity, so as not to get pushed out of line.

It still doesn't solve my problem of finding a great rip blade for the circular saw. I'm beginning to think that companies like Freud just don't make it. Which is odd, because I know track-saws are becoming very popular and a lot of woodworkers use them for ripping clean edges.

I purchased the best finish blade I could find at the local Homeless Despot a while back, and it couldn't make a rip cut on my track saw. It was too flimsy and would migrate away from the tracks, eventually running the saws motor down. That's when I realized the need for a really stiff blade.
 

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where's my table saw?
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You said:
It still doesn't solve my problem of finding a great rip blade for the circular saw. I'm beginning to think that companies like Freud just don't make it. Which is odd, because I know track-saws are becoming very popular and a lot of woodworkers use them for ripping clean edges.
How so? That blade is made for a circular saw. It wouldn't be any different than using it on the table saw..... none that I can discern?
Bottom line, for $15.00 it's worth a try! I've seen them for $8.00.
The "secret" of ripping any lumber is to let the blade do all the work and not influence it by "over feeding". Over feeding puts some lateral stress on the blade causing it to wander. I use only thin kerf blades for my glue ups, but I'm careful about feeding too fast. I have a drawer full of full kerf blades I got before the thin kerfs were so plentiful and reasonable..... Freud Diablo's.
I don't know if I'll ever get around to using them ......? I had used a Freud 40 tooth for about 3 years and just decided to try a 50 tooth for kicks, not a great deal of difference that I could tell either way.
 

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I only buy Fraud if I going to use and abuse it. I've got two Amana glue line rip blades. I bought one for in the shop and the other so I would have one in the shop and the other at the sharpener. I thing they were $40. Each
 
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