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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any experience with these?

I'm looking to clamp up 4 boards, 1'' thick, cut on a 45 angle
that will act as a "frame" for a chessboard.

Does anyone see why these couldn't get the job done?
Or does anyone have any recommendations for other techniques?

Thanks a lot !!

Josh.
 

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I bought one a few weeks ago to use to make some picture frames. It worked well, although I've nothing similar to compare it to.
 

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I have one and really like it, though it does seem a bit overpriced. I've also just used a nylon strap that had a ratchet on it. This isn't a load strap, but rather just has the ratchet mechanism on a 12' long nylon strap. I made my own corner blocks and used it. Not nearly as good as the Bessey, but it cost more like $5 and the effort for the corner blocks. I think I got it at HF.
 

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I suggest the Veritas 4-way Speed Clamp from Lee Valley. I bought one and I've used it a few times. It works great and is super simple. I've used strap clamps in the past and I can never seem to get them just right.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=31162&cat=1,43838

Mark
I have the same clamp, it is easy to use and works great.

I don't know why the link does not take you to the product page? Maybe it is my computer.

 

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Yes the Bessey Strap Clamps work great I have several, an never had a problem with them
 

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>>>> "frame" for a chessboard.

Before you get too far, consider this.

How are you constructing the field (chessboard). If you are going to be using solid wood, you can not surround it with a frame. The field will want to expand and contract with changes in its moisture content. The movement will be constrained by the long grain frame pieces. The wood movement will not be denied and something will want to warp or break.

The way chessboards are normally made is to use veneer squares glued to a composition (MDF or particleboard) substrate. You can purchase an already prepared chessboard veneer chessboard from most veneer sources. That way there will be no wood movement of the field.

Another way to construct it is to construct a tenon on each of the four edges of the field and then route a slot in the sides of the frame. Make the final dimensions of inside of the frame about 1/4" more than the outside dimensions of the field. Fit the field into the frame allowing space for the movement of the field.
 

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Or does anyone have any recommendations for other techniques?

Thanks a lot !!

Josh.
Maybe I'm one of the few that tend to keep things simple. This mahogany frame has held the bevel glass mirror for several years. The mistake often made in glue ups similar to this is a starved glue joint and too much pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks everyone, I ordered them from rockler.:thumbsup: gonna try not to mess anything up.ha

Howie.. Ive already made the field, by gluing 4 strips of walnut and 4 strips of maple alternately. Then cross cutting that board into 8 pieces. Then swapping every other strip so that i ended up with a 64 piece check.

Thank for all the advice guys! New to the forum and already benefitting like crazy!:gunsmilie:

Josh
 

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I use my clamps and run my small indexable cutter along the work. Just like to add that gluing up and clamping a project proves just as critical as the machining and finishing stages, so take the time to get it right.
 
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