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I think I know why there’s a dearth of 2x3s in the sunshine state…………….no basements. They’re usually used as a “space saver”. Basements don’t have load bearing walls and can save a few inches in a room. HD and Lowes probably did their due diligence on this lol
 

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I believe you are putting too much thought in hardware. I built this window seat, in two of my dormers, from a knee wall and 3/4” lumber covering.
After I built the knee wall, I screwed ledger boards, to the walls, around the dormer. I built a 3/4” subframe around the dormer seat opening, about 1/4” to 3/8” smaller than the window seat door seat. The frame will rest on the ledger board. The frame along the bottom of the window needs to stick out from the wall about 4 to 6 inches. That way, when the window seat is open, it will stay open. You can use about any kind of hinge you like. When the seat/door cover is installed, it should be 1/4” larger than the frame opening. That way there should be a 3/8” ledge around the window seat opening.
 

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Many cubical based work stations have a similar type of mechanism above the desk - a vertical front cover hinges up and then slides into the cabinet horizontally but I think some of the suggestions here are more practical.

Also, I once mounted two HD cabinet drawer slides on a vertical surface with a single board mounted to them so I could slide out my under cab reverse osmosis filter for service. Bad idea - cabinet slides do not like any force which tries to pull them away from the mounting surface because the smaller slide piece pops out of the larger slide.
 

· cyclemarv
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So I'm remodeling a bay window in my house that's shaped like the one in the picture (not mine, I'm at work and dont have any images). View attachment 444868 I want to make the inside to be a storage area, but also want to make the bench seat one solid piece. In order to access the storage this way I would need to be able to slide it out, then fold downward. Trouble is, I have no idea what all hardware I would need to make that happen. Anyone know of a slide that can hinge at the end? Granted, I could do a cut out and make the cut part fold back, but I would like to keep it as one solid piece.
Why must the top be one solid piece? That's a recipe for an amateur outcome if I ever heard one. Do a neat & tight job with permanent installation of triangle pieces on both sides. You'll have nice big center rectangle to lift with a piano hinge at the back. With the top raised there will be good access to the entire storage area. Work carefully and the space between the center and side sections can be 1/16th inch and look totally professional. Your desired approach, IMO, will fail.
 

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Why must the top be one solid piece? That's a recipe for an amateur outcome if I ever heard one. Do a neat & tight job with permanent installation of triangle pieces on both sides. You'll have nice big center rectangle to lift with a piano hinge at the back. With the top raised there will be good access to the entire storage area. Work carefully and the space between the center and side sections can be 1/16th inch and look totally professional. Your desired approach, IMO, will fail.
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It's either a three piece with the center on piano hinge or its solid on top with hinged or panel clips on the bottom.

It's not complicated..
 

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Why must the top be one solid piece? That's a recipe for an amateur outcome if I ever heard one. Do a neat & tight job with permanent installation of triangle pieces on both sides. You'll have nice big center rectangle to lift with a piano hinge at the back. With the top raised there will be good access to the entire storage area. Work carefully and the space between the center and side sections can be 1/16th inch and look totally professional. Your desired approach, IMO, will fail.
Just because someone thinks outside the box, doesn't necessarily mean they will fail. I hope his idea works and he returns with an update. That is what draws me to this site, is learning something new.
 

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Just because someone thinks outside the box, doesn't necessarily mean they will fail. I hope his idea works and he returns with an update. That is what draws me to this site, is learning something new.
It's a problem of geometry. No amount of outside the box will change that (assuming the top must remain 1 peice, and must be hinged at the rear)

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What about a much less elegant design choice?
How about full extension drawer slides installed vertically to accommodate vertical lift, and a simple hinged prop stick to keep it "locked" in the full height extension?
 
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