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I am about to bid on a job where the owner wants a Bar Top Finish. I have never done this before and am looking for people that actually have used this stuff. I will be using Envirotex because that is what I can get locally. These type finishes are probably all the same or close to it. Anyway, I don’t need info on cost or mixing. I need info for the actual application. The person I need to talk to locally is on vacation this week and next week and I want to get a price out by Monday morning. From what I gather, it is not difficult I just have to work fast.
What do I really need to know?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks John.
I loooked at youtube and it does look easy enough. I figure its just a pour and level operation.
 

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Anyway, I don’t need info on cost or mixing. I need info for the actual application.
What do I really need to know?
Thanks in advance.

Since you say you don't need info on cost, you're probably just referring to materials cost. I will say, don't underestimate how much you would need.

To bid the project without ever having done the procedure, lacks the ability to estimate the total labor involved...start to finish. There's not really that much to it if you follow proper steps. It might pay, depending on how large a project is money wise, to know what you are getting into, to do a small top just for the experience. I know that sounds like a waste of time and money.

What can be a financial demise is to get the job and run into a problem. Doing a small top won't answer all your questions, but it will give you a hands on feel, and you may be better able to judge the labor cost for a bid.

I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.

Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.

Mixing:
When ready, do not stir either container per se, but rather use a stir stick and slowly pass the bottom of the can for any settling that may have occurred. Slowly mix equal parts so as not to create any bubbles.

For tops that will have an edge with overflow from the top pour:
Use a brush and coat the edges with the mix so when the top is poured it will have a clear run on the edges. Pour from the center of the top near the end and slowly work your way to the other end. For long tops, pour from the center to the outer ends. Allow the mix to run off the edges until you get coverage all the way around.

When the consistency gets to a gelled state, take a knife and cut off the excess from under the top.

For tops with a captive edge:
Depending on the height of the pour desired, you may want to do two pours. If you get ¼" to ⅜" minimum per pour that is fine.

Right after the pour:
Use a propane torch passed over the top, keeping the flame off the epoxy. This will heat up the material so any bubbles will rise and dissipate. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer may cause a gelling or areas that kick too soon, due to the hot forced air. Block or belt sand the cured epoxy off the bottom and ease the sharp edge where it ran off, and it was cut off.

Here is a good site that covers most questions you may have. There...see how easy it is.






 

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Day-um CM.... I'm glad I've never even attempted something like that. :eek: And, after your description, I won't be either. I'll just hire you or Tony B. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Since you say you don't need info on cost, you're probably just referring to materials cost. I will say, don't underestimate how much you would need. I was referring to the cost of materials. It will cost me $82/gal delivered toi my shop. I planned on ordering 2 extra gallons. That will take care of my training and underestimating quantity. Tony B

To bid the project without ever having done the procedure, lacks the ability to estimate the total labor involved...start to finish. There's not really that much to it if you follow proper steps. It might pay, depending on how large a project is money wise, to know what you are getting into, to do a small top just for the experience. I know that sounds like a waste of time and money. Doing a small top or two for the esxperience is not a waste of time or money. it is the wise thing to do. Tony B.

What can be a financial demise is to get the job and run into a problem. Doing a small top won't answer all your questions, but it will give you a hands on feel, and you may be better able to judge the labor cost for a bid. Too bad I dont have time for a practice piece before the bid. I never cut myself close to the bone. If I get the job, great, If I don't- so what. If you get every job you bid on, you will shortly be out of business. Tony B

I can give you a short course. The work area should be absolutely clean, with no moving air. Don't clean, brush off, blow off, or sneeze in or near the work area. If the top has any cracks, knots or holes, they should be plugged/filled with epoxy prior to the pour. The top should be sitting level.

Have the top in an easy to work and move around area. Cover the floor with drop cloths. Visqueen (brand or other brands of clear plastic sheeting) the area completely.

Mixing:
When ready, do not stir either container per se, but rather use a stir stick and slowly pass the bottom of the can for any settling that may have occurred. Slowly mix equal parts so as not to create any bubbles.

For tops that will have an edge with overflow from the top pour:
Use a brush and coat the edges with the mix so when the top is poured it will have a clear run on the edges. Pour from the center of the top near the end and slowly work your way to the other end. For long tops, pour from the center to the outer ends. Allow the mix to run off the edges until you get coverage all the way around.

When the consistency gets to a gelled state, take a knife and cut off the excess from under the top.

For tops with a captive edge:
Depending on the height of the pour desired, you may want to do two pours. If you get ¼" to ⅜" minimum per pour that is fine.

Right after the pour:
Use a propane torch passed over the top, keeping the flame off the epoxy. This will heat up the material so any bubbles will rise and dissipate. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer may cause a gelling or areas that kick too soon, due to the hot forced air. Block or belt sand the cured epoxy off the bottom and ease the sharp edge where it ran off, and it was cut off.

Here is a good site that covers most questions you may have. There...see how easy it is.








Thanks for the short course that answered a lot of my questions. I saw a few videos on youtube and it seems pretty straight forward. I will follow your 'short course' advise. I am very good at following instructions without getting creative.
One more question - would you estimate 2 hours per 2' x 8' top counting set-up to clean-up? There are 3 tops involved and it will be going over hunduras mahog.
Thanks again
 
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