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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newbie here, though been WWkng since the 60's.

I recently had to replace the tensioning rod on my Delta BS, now I can't get it to tension properly according to the indicator. Yeah, I know indicators are not very accurate, but it gets me to a starting point. I'm thinking I did something wrong when I installed the new rod (zero instructions with it). I just assumed remove the old one, thread in the new one, as soon as the bolt lodged in the adjuster all was good. Now I have to go past the 3/4" mark to tension a 1/4" blade. Before I just had to get to 1/4" and give it a few extra turns. Any ideas?
 

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A cat made me do it.
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What is the model number of your Delta?

Just a very generic idea, some how the indicator is out of sync with the actual tension, looking at the indicator mechanism can you see any adjustment? Or starting the threads of the tensioning rod into the indicator at a different rotation? Maybe post photos of the areas involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What is the model number of your Delta?

Just a very generic idea, some how the indicator is out of sync with the actual tension, looking at the indicator mechanism can you see any adjustment? Or starting the threads of the tensioning rod into the indicator at a different rotation? Maybe post photos of the areas involved.
Model is 28-293.

I figure it it out of sync as well, but not sure how it's supposed to be in sync. The setup is pretty simple: rod goes into the tensioning bracket, inside is a spring, a red washer, and a square nut. Originally the rod sat at the botton of the arm, and it still does.

Here is a stock photo:

422743


My setup looks exactly the same, but my spring is a Delta, not a Carter.
 

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Don't worry about it. Tension it until its tensioned properly.

Frank Klausz said his boss who was also his father, once when he complimented him on a piece of furniture, told him "After 45 years you'll be a pretty good beginner, too."
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't worry about it. Tension it until its tensioned properly.

Frank Klausz said his boss who was also his father, once when he complimented him on a piece of furniture, told him "After 45 years you'll be a pretty good beginner, too."
I wouldn't be concerned if it were off a little, but there isn't enough adjustment for a 3/4" blade, possibly even a 1/2" blade.
 

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(A) have you checked the spring for breakage? The upper portion of the spring is hidden inside the sliding bracket and possibly has broken?

This may not apply in your situation but actual blade length (not the length on the box label) will affect the tension adjustor spring position (which serves as the indicator). A shorter blade will tension "sooner" than a longer blade, even though both blades are in the acceptable range of blade lengths.
422771
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
(A) have you checked the spring for breakage? The upper portion of the spring is hidden inside the sliding bracket and possibly has broken?

This may not apply in your situation but actual blade length (not the length on the box label) will affect the tension adjustor spring position (which serves as the indicator). A shorter blade will tension "sooner" than a longer blade, even though both blades are in the acceptable range of blade lengths.
Yes, Dave, I've taken the spring out and visually checked it, seems OK.

It's the same blade that was on when I started this.

I'm thinking it's more how it goes together: I put the rod through the slider, insert the spring and the indicator washer, then the nut. How far should I thread the rod in before I put it back in the frame? Should it just clear the nut? Should it thread in as far as it can go? Is there some relationship between where the slider should be in the frame when the rod bottoms out?

I've watched every video on YT about changing the slider, the spring, the indicator, they all show how to disassemble everything, then either fast forward through assemble or just say, "now put it all back together". Useless. Delta's owner's manual talks about assembling the saw in the beginning, but the slider is already on the top cover at the time, so no help. I've reached out to Delta last week, but haven't heard back from them.
 

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I'm confused, First you said you replaced the tensioning rod. Now you indicate that you disassembled the entire upper wheel assembly to replace only the tensioning rod? The rod should have been able to simply be fully threaded up and out of the assembly and the new one threaded in from the top.
Perhaps there is something else that needs corrected other than the items you are concerned with?
As you properly indicate, the actual tension rod, tension spring, nut and red washer are pretty straight forward in assembly and function. The end of the rod bottoms out against frame and the nuts raises as the rod is rotated. The nut puts pressure on the spring which in turn raises the sliding bracket, thus tensioning the blade.

If you have removed the entire assembly perhaps this video will help. (1) Band Saw Repair - Replacing the Sliding Bracket (Jet Part # 100016ACP) - YouTube
Your saw should be very very similar.
 

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I wonder how similar the Delta 28-293 is to the Grizzly bandsaws? I remember a couple threads here about issues with 92-1/2 inch vs. 93-1/2 inch blades, which sounds similar to @pahiker's issue. Maybe, just maybe. I searched, and found this one, but I don't know if it would help or not:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/band-saw-tuning.217413/

During the search, I also found this one, which is before my time:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/grizzly-band-saw.48710/

Sorry if this is no help, but the discussion reminded me of discussions from the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm confused, First you said you replaced the tensioning rod. Now you indicate that you disassembled the entire upper wheel assembly to replace only the tensioning rod? The rod should have been able to simply be fully threaded up and out of the assembly and the new one threaded in from the top.
Perhaps there is something else that needs corrected other than the items you are concerned with?
As you properly indicate, the actual tension rod, tension spring, nut and red washer are pretty straight forward in assembly and function. The end of the rod bottoms out against frame and the nuts raises as the rod is rotated. The nut puts pressure on the spring which in turn raises the sliding bracket, thus tensioning the blade.

If you have removed the entire assembly perhaps this video will help. (1) Band Saw Repair - Replacing the Sliding Bracket (Jet Part # 100016ACP) - YouTube
Your saw should be very very similar.
Dave, initially I did only remove the tension rod, but when things didn't work right I thought perhaps something else broke, so I took it all apart to check everything out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wonder how similar the Delta 28-293 is to the Grizzly bandsaws? I remember a couple threads here about issues with 92-1/2 inch vs. 93-1/2 inch blades, which sounds similar to @pahiker's issue. Maybe, just maybe. I searched, and found this one, but I don't know if it would help or not:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/band-saw-tuning.217413/

During the search, I also found this one, which is before my time:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/grizzly-band-saw.48710/

Sorry if this is no help, but the discussion reminded me of discussions from the past.
TA, yeah, I've had that problem. My old bandsaw was a 50's Delta, I had to special order blades from Carter, even ordering two at the same time I would get slightly different sizes. Never made a difference other than tensioning a little more or less. If this were off just a little I wouldn't have been concerned, but since it's the same 1/4" blade that now needs tensioned to 3/4" that's a lot, and doesn't leave much play room for a real 3/4" blade.
 

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assuming that you have re-assembled correctly, and are just looking for a fix...

measure the distance on the tension gauge from where the pointer is, and where you want it to be. then place that much in washers above or below the spring on the tension rod assembly.

the pic shows the point of the tension rod resting on a couple of plates in the crook of the frame casting. fwiw my delta tension rod point rests directly on the casting. are those removeable, one or both?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
assuming that you have re-assembled correctly, and are just looking for a fix...

measure the distance on the tension gauge from where the pointer is, and where you want it to be. then place that much in washers above or below the spring on the tension rod assembly.

the pic shows the point of the tension rod resting on a couple of plates in the crook of the frame casting. fwiw my delta tension rod point rests directly on the casting. are those removeable, one or both?
Tim, mine is resting on the frame as well. That would be a lot of washers on the top of the spring, with that many the nut would no longer be inside the bracket. Nice idea, though.

About the plates, I watched a video of an old shop teacher that put a bearing between the rod and the arm to keep it from wearing down the frame. Nice idea, might try it if I ever get this thing working again.
 

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The video Dave posted is excellent! Look at it at this point that shos a tab on the red indicator washer:

Out of curiosity, I would be interested in the blade length. If you have an old dull blade cut it and lay it out on a tape measure fort the easiest way. Otherwise, tape your tape measure to any point on the blade which should be laying flat on a table top and work your way around it with clothes pins to hold it until you reach the start and see what length it reads.
See if it's the standard 93 1/2" length. Be aware that a 3/4" wide blade will max out the tensioning capacity of that saw, or so I have read. I donno for certain, but the indicator may tell you OR the owner's manual.
I would also measure your spring's length and call Iturra Designs for their expert knowledge of that bandsaw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The video Dave posted is excellent! Look at it at this point that shos a tab on the red indicator washer:
Yes, I've seen that video, used it when I disassembled everything. His is a Jet, similar (more so) to Delta than Grizzly's. He skips over the part about how far down you thread the rod before putting it back in the frame, everyone does. "Here's the tab, make sure it goes in the slot." and we're all done. Maybe because of the difference between Jet and Delta it's not that important. From what I've seen of Jet's 14" at my local Woodcrafter's the bracket comes all the way down to the frame, on the Delta it only comes down a little more than halfway. My first attempt I made sure the bracket was at the bottom of its travel, then threaded the rod through the nut until it met the frame, I couldn't tension the blade at all at that setting. If I clamp the bracket at the top of its travel, thread the rod to the frame, then I can't tension anything because the bracket can't move. There has to be a sweet spot somewhere in between, but I have yet to find it. There must be a "hey, it goes here" but I can't find anything on the web.
 

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If I clamp the bracket at the top of its travel, thread the rod to the frame, then I can't tension anything because the bracket can't move.

The position of the rod beyond the nut and bracket, is immaterial during the assembly process. The bracket should be free to move from both extremes of it's travel, doesn't matter where it starts, either end or somewhere in the middle.

422777


422778


Turning the tensioning rod clockwise should raise the sliding bracket upward until it interferes with the opening in the upper wheel cover.

Turning the tensioning rod counterclockwise should lower the sliding bracket down until it touches the frame. Once the bracket touches the frame, further turning of the tensioning rod will only lift the bottom end of the rod up and away from the frame.

Only once you are ready to install the blade, will you need to ensure that the bracket is lowered enough to accept the blade.

Are you positive you received the correct replacement tensioning rod from Delta? Is the threaded length the same as the old rod?
 

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What length is your spring? The link I posted offeres 2 lengths, a 2 1/2" and a 3' long, "high tension" springs from Iturra.
I feel for Ya, but there's only two reasons it ain't workin' that I can imagine:
The wrong part(s) or the wrong assembly order.
Can you compare the threaded rod lengths and the spring length from before your reassembly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The position of the rod beyond the nut and bracket, is immaterial during the assembly process. The bracket should be free to move from both extremes of it's travel, doesn't matter where it starts, either end or somewhere in the middle.

View attachment 422777

View attachment 422778

Turning the tensioning rod clockwise should raise the sliding bracket upward until it interferes with the opening in the upper wheel cover.

Turning the tensioning rod counterclockwise should lower the sliding bracket down until it touches the frame. Once the bracket touches the frame, further turning of the tensioning rod will only lift the bottom end of the rod up and away from the frame.

Only once you are ready to install the blade, will you need to ensure that the bracket is lowered enough to accept the blade.

Are you positive you received the correct replacement tensioning rod from Delta? Is the threaded length the same as the old rod?
That was it! The new rod is threaded more than the old one. I marked the new rod where the old one ended and just screwed it in to that depth, now the 1/4" blade tensions at just about the right spot. It's a little off, maybe 2-3 turns, but that's well within range.

Thanks everyone!
 
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