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Discussion Starter #1
I just added a 6" riser block on my 14" Porter Cable bandsaw. It wasn't too difficult to put on but am now thinking I need a fence and wondering if anyone has built their own. The Kreg bandsaw fences are around $110 and think I could do it for much less on my own but not sure.

I like the blue aluminum fence material from Rockler but does anyone else know what I would need for hardware?
 

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where's my table saw?
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There's a whole lot of ways

Here's some examples:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=bandsaw+fence

A resaw fence which you probably want will be taller of course:
http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...age&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=bandsaw+resaw+fence

They rely on a "T" square design to square it up OR if your blade has drift then you will want it "adjustable".

This one seems pretty reasonable:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kreg-KMS720...974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d7e87f7e

I made my own for a WWT member to show how a quick and easy one could be made from 3 pieces and a bar clamp:


Not that hard to make one from a long clamp and a wooden rail with a groove along the top length to keep the clamp upright. You'd need a table saw or router to make the groove ....or glue up 3 pieces.... 2 for the outside and a narrow one for the center, a bit lower than the other 2. The center piece should be the same thickness as the bar of your clamp. Mine wasn't, so I added a green taped shim, just for this example.
All the pieces are the same length as the table. It should sit square ON the table and you can measure for square TO the table from the slot.
;) bill Attached Thumbnails
 
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I recently picked up one of the magfences from Carter and I love it. It is so easy to position the fence and then activate the magnets to lock it into place.

I have seen that you can buy just he magnets and use those in your own fence build. I also have a feather board with the same magnets and love using it in the band saw, table saw, and even the jointer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow Woodnthings that is some pretty quick and easy work. Looks like it would be effective until I can make something more permanent. I'll look at it Masterjer, my goal is to not spend a fortune on one.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I actually think I will just do the same. I probably won't resaw too often but needed the height for something else. I would like to have a larger table size on the saw though since I will be cutting larger pieces, does anyone have any ideas for that?

Thank you by the way for the info, it helped me realize how simple the solution was!
 

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Malamute said:
I actually think I will just do the same. I probably won't resaw too often but needed the height for something else. I would like to have a larger table size on the saw though since I will be cutting larger pieces, does anyone have any ideas for that?

Thank you by the way for the info, it helped me realize how simple the solution was!
Actually the fence is only part of what is needed to resaw. The right blade makes a big difference. Without it, resawing with a fence is almost impossible.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What blades are recommended for resawing? Is there one that can be used for both general purpose cutting as well as resawing?
 

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Malamute said:
What blades are recommended for resawing? Is there one that can be used for both general purpose cutting as well as resawing?
To answer your second question, no. They are built much like table saw blades. One size can fit all but will also will preform most tasks just okay. I'm not as experienced as some here but the resaw blade is one that is wide and has less teeth per inch.

When resawing the blade wants to flex backward. resulting in the blade curving one way or the other. requiring the wood to be pointed one direction or the other to compensate, which can't be done when using a fence.

There have been threads on this subject recently and I'm hoping others here chime in because they are better at posting links that will help you alleviate a great deal of headaches and unsatisfactory results. Try a search here on the subject.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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where's my table saw?
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lot's of resawing threads here

How to make jigs and carriages for it., what blades to use, etc.

Here's thread I started where I did a lot of bandsaw work:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f13/baileigh-contest-woodnthings-entry-51174/

I use a 3 TPI blade, either 1/2" or 3/4" wide for my resawing operations. You need more tension for a wider blade like 3/4" to keep it stiff which is the secret of resawing as well as fewer teeth to help clean out the sawdust. The "set" of the teeth is greater on a resaw blade than a general purpose blade with more teeth. The smallest blade I use for "tight" radius cuts is 1/4" wide and 6 teeth per inch.

Since I hate changing blades on any saw, I have acquired more than one bandsaw. On the 14" Craftsman saws I use a 1/2" wide blade, on the little 10" saw I got for my son years ago, I use a 1/4" or 3/8" blade. On the 18" MinMax I keep a 3/4" Timberwolf # TPI blade. Resaw sleds here:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/resaw-sled-7552/
 

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When resawing the blade wants to flex backward. resulting in the blade curving one way or the other. requiring the wood to be pointed one direction or the other to compensate, which can't be done when using a fence.
Years ago, I was at a fellows place, buying some rough cut wood. He had a band saw with about a 2" blade for resaw. I can't remember if he didn't have a thrust bearing, or if it was just backed off. I asked about it, and he said he didn't want the blade pivoting on it's back edge, causing the cut to wander. I guess it worked for him.
 

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Pirate said:
Years ago, I was at a fellows place, buying some rough cut wood. He had a band saw with about a 2" blade for resaw. I can't remember if he didn't have a thrust bearing, or if it was just backed off. I asked about it, and he said he didn't want the blade pivoting on it's back edge, causing the cut to wander. I guess it worked for him.
If I could get a 2" wide blade on my saw for resawing I would.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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I just added a 6" riser block on my 14" Porter Cable bandsaw. It wasn't too difficult to put on but am now thinking I need a fence and wondering if anyone has built their own. The Kreg bandsaw fences are around $110 and think I could do it for much less on my own but not sure.

I like the blue aluminum fence material from Rockler but does anyone else know what I would need for hardware?
It's nice to make your own and save money but I love my Kreg and use it almost daily.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would have liked to just make one out of the blue Rockler fencing but don't know if there is a piece to attach to the saw...I'll search more
 

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I would have liked to just make one out of the blue Rockler fencing but don't know if there is a piece to attach to the saw...I'll search more
Have you come up with a fence yet, I made one yesterday using a couple old hard drive magnets that work great. I assume you could buy some magnets if you don't have any, but the old hard drive mags are freaky strong and as long as you leave the thickness of the magnets below the fence and the table you'll have the room to rotate/rock the fence enough to break the grip and pull off or move the fence. Here the link to my fence with some pics...

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/home-made-magnetic-bandsaw-fence-58276/
 

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You can use a piece of wood clamped to the bs, as a fence. It's just as convenient as using a piece of wood for a fence on your ts. I did it before getting a real fence.

Magnetic fence? How do you make sure it's aligned with the blade? (or drift line) Compared to just sliding a fence and pushing the lock lever down, (a couple of seconds) like a Bies, ts fence, it seems it would take much longer to set.

Assuming you have the table marked with the blade drift angle, setting a clamp on, or magnetiic fence, would require measuring at front and back of the table. Like using a crappy ts fence. Why bother? A real fence on a bs, to me, is as important as a good ts fence.

I use a Jet 16" bs fence on my Delta 14" bs.
It's a t square style fence, like a Bies. It's a pleasure to use.

Is there an advantage to a magnetic fence?
 

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You can use a piece of wood clamped to the bs, as a fence. It's just as convenient as using a piece of wood for a fence on your ts. I did it before getting a real fence.

Magnetic fence? How do you make sure it's aligned with the blade? (or drift line) Compared to just sliding a fence and pushing the lock lever down, (a couple of seconds) like a Bies, ts fence, it seems it would take much longer to set.

Assuming you have the table marked with the blade drift angle, setting a clamp on, or magnetiic fence, would require measuring at front and back of the table. Like using a crappy ts fence. Why bother? A real fence on a bs, to me, is as important as a good ts fence.

I use a Jet 16" bs fence on my Delta 14" bs.
It's a t square style fence, like a Bies. It's a pleasure to use.

Is there an advantage to a magnetic fence?
My band saw table is small, so just use my 12 inch sliding combination square. I measure from table edge to the blade, then set it for the thickness I want plus that blade distance. Set the fence close, then just tap it to the end of the CS front and back. Takes just a few sec. I like the mag thing , one because it was free...lol...and it is fairly quick, nothing to tighten down. I am lucky I have an old shopsmith with the band saw attachment, and it is dead on, no blade lead at all, but even it had some, with the mag fence just tap it on one end or the other to compensate for the lead. The other thing is when I don't need it, just pull it off and slap it onto the saw frame, stored and out of the way. Works for me, I don't know that would use it on a table saw. In my case that decision was made already, my TS is aluminum table...lol...odd that Shopsmith made the TS out of aluminum and the BS table out of iron, but they did...
 

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My band saw table is small, so just use my 12 inch sliding combination square. I measure from table edge to the blade, then set it for the thickness I want plus that blade distance. Set the fence close, then just tap it to the end of the CS front and back. Takes just a few sec. I like the mag thing , one because it was free...lol...and it is fairly quick, nothing to tighten down. I am lucky I have an old shopsmith with the band saw attachment, and it is dead on, no blade lead at all, but even it had some, with the mag fence just tap it on one end or the other to compensate for the lead. The other thing is when I don't need it, just pull it off and slap it onto the saw frame, stored and out of the way. Works for me, I don't know that would use it on a table saw. In my case that decision was made already, my TS is aluminum table...lol...odd that Shopsmith made the TS out of aluminum and the BS table out of iron, but they did...
So, if you saw has blade lead, and lets say you want to resaw a 1/2 piece. How do you set the fence to the proper angle, for blade lead? With a typical bs fence, you set it once, to blade lead, and every time you move it, it's always set for the blade lead. Seems like a time saver to me.
I like making jigs, fences, etc, but not for my bs. Unless I wanted to do a serious metal fence.
 

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So, if you saw has blade lead, and lets say you want to resaw a 1/2 piece. How do you set the fence to the proper angle, for blade lead? With a typical bs fence, you set it once, to blade lead, and every time you move it, it's always set for the blade lead. Seems like a time saver to me.
I like making jigs, fences, etc, but not for my bs. Unless I wanted to do a serious metal fence.
So you just tap it over a little more for blade lead. Look I never said this would work as good as a $150 jet fence, I said it was FREE that's it, of course it requires some work to make it work, not much, but some. You don't like it, I get it, but some folks don't have the money to buy the best and fastest most accurate in the world. Some people like me don't use a band saw often enough to justify spending money on a fence. I just thought someone might be interested in a cheap or free if you have the parts fence that works just fine. If this offends you I am sorry, just don't use it, personally I don't care if anybody uses it, works for me, that's all I care about...just because you don't like it, doesn't make it useless
 
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