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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 14" bs with 1/2 hp motor that I got second hand for $100. It has no identifying decals and even though I have done a good bit of research and haven't been able to identify it yet. I have put a good bit of work into with new cool blocks, blade guides, and tires. With the improvements it was working well on 2" or thinner stock. I recently was trying to resaw some 4" rough cut cherry with a 3/8" 3 tpi timberwolf blade and had trouble. Even while keeping the stock on my fence the blade was wanting to migrate inward and pull the wood away from my fence.

I have watched the carter products band saw clinic video on youutbe and have followed his instructions and am still having this issue. Does anyone have suggestions for this? Is my saw out of alignment?
 

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I use a resaw guide that will allow you to pivot in order to stay on the cut line. Then a pass or two through the planer and it's ready to use.
 

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Popsnsons said:
I use a resale guide that will allow you to pivot in order to stay on the cut line. Then a pass or two through the planer and it's ready to use.
Should read resaw. Spell check changed my wording.
 

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there could be several issues

The blade may be dull on one side or both.
The blade should be centered on the wheels.
The "rough sawn" wood may not be at 90 degrees to the fence or may be curved slightly.
The blade may not have enough tension IF you go by the indicator on the back with the spring. Too much tension, if that's even possible is better than not enough.
I use Timberwolf blades myself and occasionally I get one that won't cut straight, but it's rare. A blade that's dull on one side will favor the opposite side. Your blade may have struck something ....?

When my saw has a new blade, and under proper tension it will cut 1/16" veneer nice and straight, up to 8" thick each time.

Cherry is difficult to work sometimes and you may want to insert a wedged shim into the cut as soon as you have enough open kerf.
When a blade gets hot it loses it's temper and won't perform correctly. By keeping the kerf open the saw dust can escape and keep the blade cooler.

I do a lot of resawing of Oak and I would not want to have to follow a line by eye with a post type resaw guide, it just takes too much effort. With my saw I don't need that and I just just my fence locked at 90 degrees to the table.
 

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I have a 14" bs with 1/2 hp motor that I got second hand for $100. It has no identifying decals and even though I have done a good bit of research and haven't been able to identify it yet. I have put a good bit of work into with new cool blocks, blade guides, and tires. With the improvements it was working well on 2" or thinner stock. I recently was trying to resaw some 4" rough cut cherry with a 3/8" 3 tpi timberwolf blade and had trouble. Even while keeping the stock on my fence the blade was wanting to migrate inward and pull the wood away from my fence.

I have watched the carter products band saw clinic video on youutbe and have followed his instructions and am still having this issue. Does anyone have suggestions for this? Is my saw out of alignment?
If you set it up like Alex shows in the video your blade is probably junk.
In n your search to ID the saw did you bother posting pictures of it ?
 

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In my experience, one or both of two things are usually the cause of blade drift :

1) Blade not centred on tyre, therefore slanted left or right as it leaves the wheel.

2) Old or poor quality blade - I usually fit a new blade whenever I have an important resaw job to do. Saves a lot of cursing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've had similar drift issues with a different blade but just assumed that 3/4" was too wide for my saw. The narrower blade has drastically reduced the issue but its still an issue especially on thicker stock. I will probably mess a little with my tires and see if that can make a difference. I may try to use the older rubber uncrowned tires that were on the saw. I had resisted the rubber tires to avoid having to use glue but i will give it a shot.
 
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