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I am building some wall hung cubes for underneath my TV out of walnut. What is the best way to attach these to the wall? Before, I did a solid back that is captured in a groove in the carcass (not sure if I should have done that or not) that seem to be working fine. I do not really want to waste all that wood for a back. Could I put a rail at the top and the bottom? If so, how do I fasten that to the carcass? I'm fairly new to all of this so all your help is appreciated.
 

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John
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I am building some wall hung cubes for underneath my TV out of walnut. What is the best way to attach these to the wall? Before, I did a solid back that is captured in a groove in the carcass (not sure if I should have done that or not) that seem to be working fine. I do not really want to waste all that wood for a back. Could I put a rail at the top and the bottom? If so, how do I fasten that to the carcass? I'm fairly new to all of this so all your help is appreciated.
Hi Jack - I'd suggest hanging them with French cleats. You can install the wall portion of the cleat at the desired height and make sure it's level, hang the cabinet and put one or two screws through a nailer at the bottom of the cabinet to secure it.. Here's some pictures:
http://www.google.com/search?q=fren...QGm7ID4Bg&sqi=2&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1225&bih=765
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess I should have said the size. One of these is 60"l x 12"t x 18"d. So they aren't exactly cubes. Picture a large rectangular cube haha. And they will probably be holding about 30lbs of stuff (receiver, cable box, etc).
 

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John: I thought about using a french cleat. My only question is how do I mount that to the carcass? The edge of the carcass will be tight against the wall. I've attached a drawing that hopefully helps explain what I am trying to accomplish. There will be 2 separate "boxes" that are attached separatley. I just am trying to figure out how to mount one of them, then I'll do the same for the other one.
 

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jack819 said:
My only question is how do I mount that to the carcass? The edge of the carcass will be tight against the wall.
If you go with a French cleat then the back of the carcass won't be flush against the wall, it'll be pushed out by the thickness of the two adjoining members of the cleat.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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Doug S said:
If you go with a French cleat then the back of the carcass won't be flush against the wall, it'll be pushed out by the thickness of the two adjoining members of the cleat.

If you keep the back open, then you could put the cleat on the inside of the box. Similar to the way a floating shelf is mounted.

Mark
 

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John
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John: I thought about using a french cleat. My only question is how do I mount that to the carcass? The edge of the carcass will be tight against the wall. I've attached a drawing that hopefully helps explain what I am trying to accomplish. There will be 2 separate "boxes" that are attached separatley. I just am trying to figure out how to mount one of them, then I'll do the same for the other one.
Hi Jack - I'd hide them inside the cabinet sides. You could cover them with a faux back from the inside after they're hung. You'd loose about an inch of depth this way.

I really suck at Sketchup so I drew an end view up in DeltaCad.
 

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jschaben said:
Hi Jack - I'd hide them inside the cabinet sides. You could cover them with a faux back from the inside after they're hung. You'd loose about an inch of depth this way.

I really suck at Sketchup so I drew an end view up in DeltaCad.
That's what I tried to say. Only I wasn't so eloquent...

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats what I was kind of thinking. How do I mount the nailer and the french cleat (or half of it) to the rest of the carcass? Screws? Is there any other way to mount it without screws?
 

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jack819 said:
Thats what I was kind of thinking. How do I mount the nailer and the french cleat (or half of it) to the rest of the carcass? Screws? Is there any other way to mount it without screws?
You could do screws through back corners which would be hidden on wall. As well as screws through top down as they'd likely be hidden from view. I'd also apply Titebond III glue.

Mark
 

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John
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I agree, glue for sure. If you are using 3/4" ply for the sides, pocket screws would work. You could also just go directly in from the sides and trim the whole works with 1/4 round.:smile:
 

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from a commercial cabinet shop perspective (where I work not my hobby shop lol), I would say pocket hole 4" nailers made from 3/4 ply the width of the cabinet on top and bottom, flush with the back of the cabinet, then screw directly from there into the wall stud. I suck even worse at sketchup ha but maybe somebody could draw it up if they know what i'm saying. put the pocket holes to the rear so they'll be against the wall, rub the bottom of the nailer with a sander so its smooth, and all you have are a few 2 1/2" screw heads showing. hope this helps
 

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If you have a router and a dovetail bit, you could use a Dovetail cleat to hang em. a Stopped Female dovetail is routed into the vertical edges of the shelves. The Male Dovetail is done on a cleat that screws or toggle bolts to the wall.

 

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Hey just a thought. I have been using hanger bolts for a while now and they work great for your app. A hanger bolt comes in many sizes and looks like a double end screw. It will have machine threads on one side and wood threads on the other. If you mount the hanger bolts first then drill a 1 3/8" hole half way through the thickness of your panels then predrill another hole through the edge of your panel into the 1 3/8" hole. You can then slide the carcass onto the hanger bolts and slip washers and nuts onto the bolt and you are flush mounted and real don't have to put any back on it. . Hope all this makes sense.
 

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Here are a couple pics of a floating shelf i made of Jatoba. You can see the bolts are much larger than you will need but I'm positive you can get them in 1/4" which is ideal for your app. never mind can't get the pics to upload. Does anyone else have a problem with getting pics to upload?
 

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