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I am ready to apply finish to my version of a TV Lift Cabinet masquerading as a French Country antique sideboard. Too late now to make the design fit the desired outcome --- i.e., stuck with the construction as is, --- I'm contemplating using a linear actuator to operate a false front drawer panel that opens so the Soundbar can be exposed. The problem is that there just isn't much room in the cabinet to place the actuator horizontally, as the soundbar blocks those positions. I'm not so committed to this automation that I want to rip out the existing stuff and optimize for the actuator. So I thought I would post a shop drawing of the geometry as it exists, and see if anyone has encountered --- and solved! -- a similar problem.
 

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I am ready to apply finish to my version of a TV Lift Cabinet masquerading as a French Country antique sideboard. Too late now to make the design fit the desired outcome --- i.e., stuck with the construction as is, --- I'm contemplating using a linear actuator to operate a false front drawer panel that opens so the Soundbar can be exposed. The problem is that there just isn't much room in the cabinet to place the actuator horizontally, as the soundbar blocks those positions. I'm not so committed to this automation that I want to rip out the existing stuff and optimize for the actuator. So I thought I would post a shop drawing of the geometry as it exists, and see if anyone has encountered --- and solved! -- a similar problem.


Use pulley and cable then can mount actuators anywhere space is available


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Use pulley and cable then can mount actuators anywhere space is available


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was thinking the same thing but how do you make the door lower with a cable system? Potentially spring loaded hinges that always keep the door trying to open and the cable just provides constant closing pressure. The cable may be able to push the door open without an issue but without mocking it up, its hard to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
May Not be Solvable

I have European hinges installed which do a fine job keeping the door forced shut, but require force to open and continuing force to about the 70 degree point on the arc. I want no hinges visible from the outside, since this is a fake drawer front; hence the Euros.

I'm still pondering but today started painting the rear of the cabinet so in a few days, ponder time will be over. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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That would be a great addition to my house as well. Did you manage to install it? A friend of mine was looking for the same the other day on automationstop.com - Allen Bradley Repair and he was really excited with the variety of products he found. Apparently they specialize in this field and have most of the products that Allen Bradley has made. These products are legendarily good to have. Another great thing is that they repair them as well for a nice price in case you need that in the future.
 
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