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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I'm standing here in the isle. All the wood is stored vertical. Every board is twisted or warped. I'm attempting to build a long 9' butter block style top for a counter..
Is this usable? If I clamp this wood is it going to work in the end if I pick the least worst boards? I'm taking 1x2's



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If it is starting to warp, it will continue to do so. You may be able to straighten it out with clamps, but it will always want to go back the way it was. If you plan on jointing and planing it, you may be able to end up with decent pieces.

If it were me, I'd start with something bigger than 1 x 2 (maybe a 2x4 or even a 2x6) and mill it down to get straight pieces. I hope this helps!
 

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That looks like construction grade lumber and not what is usually used for butcher block counters. The vertical storage seems like maybe its not but as stated above get out of the big box stores. there lumber is either over priced not very good or both.

So my question is this where is the counter going and what is it for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nearest wood place is 100 miles each way. No jointer. I found 9 boards that ware not twisted but had to go red oak. $$$
They have alittle wave but I think I can handle.

9' glue up how many clamps would you suggest?
 

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prinler said:
Nearest wood place is 100 miles each way. No jointer. I found 9 boards that ware not twisted but had to go red oak. $$$
They have alittle wave but I think I can handle.

9' glue up how many clamps would you suggest?
My closest HD is 100 miles way. My closest hardwood lumber store is almost 400 miles, but it's worth it. Sometimes you can order smaller pieces on the Internet but if you want to make a quality piece, it is worth the drive.

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My closest HD is 100 miles way. My closest hardwood lumber store is almost 400 miles, but it's worth it. Sometimes you can order smaller pieces on the Internet but if you want to make a quality piece, it is worth the drive.

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And it's worth investing in a jointer and planer. Actually, those tools are imperative for a project like this
 

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I'd say it does look like red oak, but I'm sure the price per board foot it outrageous if you calculate it out. it would be much cheaper to buy rough sawn from a local sawyer and plane it down. in my opinion the planer will pay for itself. as for a jointer, I don't have one. I have been successful enough with using my table saw with a good blade. where are you located, as maybe someone on this forum could direct you to a supplier nearby, also, what is the countertop for? if its a kitchen I would not choose an open grain wood as oak is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Poplar actually. I grabbed the home store worker and gave him a bunch of crap for the poor quality .
I would rather spend a little more for a harder wood that isn't twisted. The cost of driving my truck to the wood store would be just nuts! Not to mention the cost of wood. I guess this is the first of many times I will be disappointed by HD.

This is for a fake counter top. Shown in the photo bellow. It starts with 3 30" unfinished cabinets from HD. The a counter top on top, then a book case on that. Reminds me of a tur-duck-en. Just a buncha stuff in 1.


Furniture Room Sideboard Wall Cabinetry



Off to watch YouTube for some clamping or laminating techniques. Gotta figure out if I should clamp all at once, half and then half? Ect in only own 6 clamps large enough for all the boards.


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Ok as mentioned several times and why I ask everyone to post there general location, State, town etc is it helps give advice.

I have three questions.

Where are you?

What wood was in first picture? Does not look like Red Oak.

What did you end up with? It looks like Red Oak in the second picture.

You definitely need more clamps. That is a rather difficult project to take on without the proper tools and equipment. It also cost a lot more when buying wood the way you had to. Getting a planer will pay for itself in no time with projects like this.
 
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