[nywoodwizard]

I have to build a make up vanity ,any thoughts on using aspen? I've never used it before but it looks suitable for what i need it for.The project will be painted (sprayed of course).I'm also looking for some advise on choosing a good sprayable paint (not my specialty)and some techniques.Seems i can build better than i can finish.The design is usually the hardest,it must be simple but slightly elegant. Customer also requested some hidden compartments,which is dictating some of the design.I also have to build a matching frame that will be hung on the wall. I don't build much furniture but enjoy the challenge when it comes. I'll start sketching up something tonight. :icon_smile:

 

[seawolf21]

Aspen?

I use aspen very sparingly because it is a fuzzy wood. I usually use it for small objects like toys. When I resaw it on my bandsaw, the cut side is fuzzy and needs alot of sanding. I don't know how it looks when done on a tablesaw. I would try a piece first before you make any furniture with it.

Gary

 

[[email protected] Lazy3]

I live where there is an abundance of Aspen wood available, but rarely use it for anything other than wood ceilings. It's a very soft wood, is notorious for end checking and splitting, and is very difficult to get an even finish on. As an example, the last ceiling I did, required 4 coats of sanding sealer, before the any lacquer could be applied. The reason is because of the "fuzzy" areas that occur when the board is being planned, these areas just drink in the finish. Same problem with staining... the wood blotches badly. Aspen wood is rather weak too, as in poor structural strength.
FWIW, I'd build out of birch or Soft [email protected]

 

[woodman42]

:thumbdown: I used Aspen once for a ladder shelf.:no: Never again.

 

[nywoodwizard]

45 degree Lock Miter/Draw lock miter router bits

I've decided to use poplar,its a good all around choice for woodworking,easy to work with and economical.Seems pointless to use a more expensive wood and cover with paint.I'm going to experiment with the 45 degree lock miter or the draw lock miter for the draws.Anyone made draws this way before ? Looking for a way to speed up draw making and assembly but not sacrifice strength. Looks like a nice strong joint and fairly simple to do.There are also jigs available for faster set up time from www.rockler.com

 

[SPalm]

I tried a 45-degree locking miter router bit several years ago and I found it extremely hard to set up. It looks like it should be so easy. Maybe it was just me.

How about a locking rabbet joint? You just make it with the TS or router table with straight bits. It is just like the mitered one, only not mitered. It is a nice drawer joint.

Steve

 

[nywoodwizard]

I've thought of that but there is so much more surface area for gluing from the draw miter and thats the key to a strong joint.I figured set up may be a pain but since you can also purchase the set-up template i figure its worth a try. (See Pic) After a few draws it should become easy.