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This is MDF. I certainly am capable of coping this stuff, it just takes a very long time. And miters aren't my favorite choice when running 1200LF at a time.
 

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This is MDF. I certainly am capable of coping this stuff, it just takes a very long time. And miters aren't my favorite choice when running 1200LF at a time.

The great thing about coping is that you dont have to be 'exact' in your cuts as the coped pieces can be cut a bit long and allowed to cut into the piece they fit against...

That don't happen with MDF crown. It will not 'cut' into anything... It WILL fold over and look bad where they meet.

You CAN easily cope MDF crown but you can't allow any real amount of 'extra' for your coped pieces. They need to be cut the correct length (or darn close to it). :yes:


MDF crown also SUCKS because it tends to 'follow' EVERY imperfection in the wall/ceiling with ease... THIS helps to SHOW those imperfections later on after the stuff is painted. A piece of wood will 'try' to stay somewhat straight but MDF will conform and show more of the wop... :yes:
 

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If I'm installing it, base, crown, and chair rail all gets coped. Makes a better joint in my opinion. It may take a bit more time until you become proficient at it, but it produces a superior finished product.

That crown is cope-able. Just take your time.

Brian
 

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The larger the molding is the more I'm inclined to cope it. I have more trouble with mitered joints with larger molding considering irregularities in the walls. On smaller molding I still prefer to miter it.
 

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since it is paint grade, and you get to "paint" the joint, i would be inclined to miter large/mdf as well. you can work painters compund into any irregular joint gaps.
 
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