I have, I don't see a problem

 

X2...

 

Personally, I don't like putting wax over any finish because it can interfere with a reapplication needed later. If the sheen isn't bright enough, then you may consider a semi-gloss, or gloss as a top coat. If it's still not shiney enough, maybe buff it out. JMO.

 

Yes

 

Ditto. No problems here.

 

Yes but only when it is a project for a pain type of person. (This is a family forum.) Then it is MinWax Antique Oil Finish followed by J&J paste wax. That way I smile every six months or so.

 

I do apply a coat of liquified Minwax paste wax over my poly finishes. I wipe it on and buff it out with a 1/4 sheet palm sander equipped with a white non-woven abrasive pad.

 

I think there will be no problems if you do everything right. The wax is applied in a thin layer using a flat brush with natural stiff bristles and evenly distributed. Open time is enough to remove excess and soak all areas. The second layer is applied after the product has completely dried. Recently, in this way, we restored old furniture in my wife's parental home. While doing all this work, we rented furniture because we applied wax and varnish in three layers and needed furniture while everything was drying.

 

We use Howard’s FeednWax n just about everything. Never an issue.

 

Yes. Results in sheer beauty.

 

Paste wax is fine, however I always use Butcher's wax (named after inventor, John Butcher) on all of my wood finishes. It contains beeswax, along with the carnuba wax in paste wax. The beeswax, although not waterproof, gives extra protection against environmental moisture and accidental spills on a table top. Butcher's wax (when dry) is FDA approved as a coatig for cutting boards/blocks, children's furniture and even marble countertops. It takes a bit longer to dry, but it's well-worth the wait. Just apply a small amount with a dampened rag and wipe it down with a dry cloth, before it dries. When dry, buff it with a terry towel, but not in a circular motion to avoid swirl marks. Also, I use it every so often to renew the finish. It can also be used on stained wood for protection, without a finish. Apply and buff out with the wood grain. I do use use paste wax in my cabinet shop, but only to protect my shop tools and power tool tops from rust.

 

Some finishes such as varnish or lacquer will dry out if you don't wax it once in a while. Polyurethane is such a hard finish the wax won't penetrate into it so all wax would do is make the surface slicker. It won't extend the duty life of the finish like it would other finishes.

 

Have old hand made furniture that we stained and polyeurathaned. Never used anything on them and they are dull and scratched. Finally used some Orange Oil and they are almost beautiful again. Wondering if that's what I should always use, or something better? I did not like the smell, but that may be becasue it was old old. Any help is appreciated.