what is the best glue to join a laminated particle board countertop together i useally use yellow glue along with biscuits .but i've been noticing a little swelling at the joint . is there some other type of glue i should use here . any in put would be helpful. thank you tony e
anyone know what type of glue is best to use when making a joint in countertop
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
26,956 Posts
I don't normally glue a joint together but put a small bead of silicone caulk right at top next to the laminate. The pull up bolts will hold the joint together and someday the countertop will need to be unassembled for removal.
Joined
·
24,017 Posts
In joining two sections of laminated tops disregarding what the substrate is, glue isn't usually used. The two mating edges should be dressed for a tight fit. The undersides are machined to use joint fasteners. Two very common ones are...on the left, tite joint fastener, on the right, draw bolt fastener. If the seam needs to be filled Kampel Seamfil comes in a wide variety of colors to match most laminates.
.
![Knape-Vogt-516-25-ZC-rw-223083-328624.jpg]()
![drawboltfastener.gif]()
![]()
![]()
.
.
.
Joined
·
28,698 Posts
based on your response...
If the counters are post formed with a plastic laminate adhered on and NOT used with draw-tite fasteners you should screw and glue a bottom plate across the seam to support it and help bond it.
If they are a different type .... we don't know... then there may be a better solution. If they are already installed...we don't know, but it sounds that way, I would still plate across the bottom and screw but not glue in case a removal is necessary. \
More details will determine the best answer. :yes:
It sounds like you never got a specific answer for the present situation. A waterproof glue like Titebond 3 will hold up longer than water resistant like Titebond type 2. A small amount brushed on both surfaces will not raise the grain. Any water that migrates into the seam WILL expand the substrate, and that will be an issue.
If the counters are post formed with a plastic laminate adhered on and NOT used with draw-tite fasteners you should screw and glue a bottom plate across the seam to support it and help bond it.
If they are a different type .... we don't know... then there may be a better solution. If they are already installed...we don't know, but it sounds that way, I would still plate across the bottom and screw but not glue in case a removal is necessary. \
More details will determine the best answer. :yes:
Joined
·
24,017 Posts
When mechanical fasteners are used, there is no need for glue. The two tops prepared for joining get pulled together, and Seamfil is used. It's waterproof.
For tops that get installed without laminate, and be laminated after installation, the joint will be machined for joint fasteners, and with this situation a glue can be used. TB III, or plastic resin glue can be used. Then when the laminate is applied it's been planned that the substrate seam does not fall where the laminate seam needs to be. IOW, the substrate joint will be covered by laminate.
Using cleats under the two tops don't allow for them to be pulled together, as joint fasteners do. I've never had a leakage problem even on tops that were joined at the sink.
.
Joined
·
28,698 Posts
You can't rout the slots for the draw-tites on a countertop that is already installed. That why I wanted more details. A support block underneath won't "hurt" and may help if the counter is already installed...we don't know.... :no:
:yes:
Joined
·
1,309 Posts
While Titebond III has been recommended over Titebond II, I will say that I have a maple butcher block cutting board that I made using Titebond II about 15 years ago. My wife actually washes this board in the sink regularly, and I am absolutely neglectful in the oiling. But in 15 years, I have had NO de-lamination occur. So I would say that unless your joint is going to soak in water for periods of time, Titebond II would also be quite adequate.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!