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Pro sawdust maker
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've been building a couple of fun projects and now he wife wants me to build her a TV stand. She went on line and found one that looks fairly simple.

The only question I have is how to build the bottom of it. What seem like a skirt/legs. If anybody could help me with some rough sketches on how to attach/build the carcass and add the legs would be sweet. Thanks a lot.
 

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Build the wider apron section as a seperate base. Then build the case to sit on top. Use a pair of dowels for alignment and you are golden.

Ed
 

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Old School
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24,027 Posts
Hi,

The only question I have is how to build the bottom of it. What seem like a skirt/legs. If anybody could help me with some rough sketches on how to attach/build the carcass and add the legs would be sweet. Thanks a lot.

I wouldn't go to the trouble with dowels. Make the cabinet and the base separate. Use diagonal blocks in each corner of the base. They will strengthen the corners, and be a cleat to screw the base to the cabinet.






 

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Pro sawdust maker
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a lot for the building hints. I am trying to picture this in my mind... I will post updates as soon as I start building it. Hopefully after the 4th. I wish I could start earlier, my wife wants it with the same satin black finish so it should be a fun project to improve my skills.
 

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Pianoman
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708 Posts
Ya know, It looks to be 6 feet long, 34"s tall and 20"s deep...using 1x8s (actual 3/4 by 7and1/4"s) for the base. Simple frame and pannel with two dividers. Build the base so the floor is flush with the top edge of the base apron. The end pannels have 1 and 3/4" styles and rails...using a 1/4" pannel rabbited into the center. The back can be the same...using three pannels...with the center styles centered with the dividers. The facing looks like rails are 1 and 3/4"s and the end styles are 2 and 1/4"s with the center styles being 1 and 1/4"s. The doors look like 3" styles and rails...I`d use 1/2" pannel for the doors so they don`t sound cheap when they close. The top is 3/4 ply with flush edge and small cove under overhang. When the base is done...size the end pannels so they are 3/4"s in from the sides and 1 and 1/2"s from the front and flush with the back. Rabbit the back edge of side pannels to recieve the back pannel...the facing can be face nailed to the ends and dividers...glued filled and sanded. Side pannels can be Kreg screwed to the floor...then fit the back pannel...then fit the facing. I`d stop route the vertical front edges. Now put the top on using trim screwes (small quad headed screwes) fill with Famowood filler or bondo sand and prime. Use the steel or chrome hinges and knobs...looks good on black! Hope it goes well! Rick
 

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Pro sawdust maker
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Holly Cow,

This is better than Martha Stewart ! Thanks a lot for the directions Rick I will have to read that a couple of times since it sounds like a mix of my physics teacher from college and Chef Ramsey from Hell's Kitchen ;)
 

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Pianoman
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708 Posts
Just an observation...it could be built a number of ways. Hope the laquering go`s well! Rick
 

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Journeyman Wood Butcher
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792 Posts
Ya know, It looks to be 6 feet long, 34"s tall and 20"s deep...using 1x8s (actual 3/4 by 7and1/4"s) for the base. Simple frame and pannel with two dividers. Build the base so the floor is flush with the top edge of the base apron. The end pannels have 1 and 3/4" styles and rails...using a 1/4" pannel rabbited into the center. The back can be the same...using three pannels...with the center styles centered with the dividers. The facing looks like rails are 1 and 3/4"s and the end styles are 2 and 1/4"s with the center styles being 1 and 1/4"s. The doors look like 3" styles and rails...I`d use 1/2" pannel for the doors so they don`t sound cheap when they close. The top is 3/4 ply with flush edge and small cove under overhang. When the base is done...size the end pannels so they are 3/4"s in from the sides and 1 and 1/2"s from the front and flush with the back. Rabbit the back edge of side pannels to recieve the back pannel...the facing can be face nailed to the ends and dividers...glued filled and sanded. Side pannels can be Kreg screwed to the floor...then fit the back pannel...then fit the facing. I`d stop route the vertical front edges. Now put the top on using trim screwes (small quad headed screwes) fill with Famowood filler or bondo sand and prime. Use the steel or chrome hinges and knobs...looks good on black! Hope it goes well! Rick

:eek:

sheeesh....you can tell all that from looking at one picture? Holy crap, you're in the wrong line of work!

smitty
 

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Pianoman
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708 Posts
Smitty, I`m just a seasioned cabinet maker. I`ve built way too many! Rick
 
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