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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, after quite a bit of deliberation, I ended up buying a Ridgid 4512.
I thought I wanted a SawStop contractors saw, and I still like the idea, but for more than a thousand dollar difference in price, when I looked at the SawStop, I finally saw that the motor was outside of the back of the saw like the older (maybe all) contractor saws, it really takes up too much space and I cannot justify the cost of a cabinet saw.
I have read different things about the R4512 and was (and am) a bit concerned about the alignment. So, I just took the base unit out of the box and began to check the blade alignment. I do not have a dial indicator, so I am just using a combination square in the miter slot. It appears that I was able to get it aligned pretty close, I guess within a couple of thousandths but obviously that is just a guess. It does appear to move a little bit (again I guess 1 or 2 thou) when the blade is lowered. It seems pretty consistent when the blade is raised, so for the price I think I can live with things like this as long as it stays aligned as is.

The issue that I ran into is with setting the blade to 0 degrees and 45 degrees.
It gets to 0 pretty easily, but it is not at the end of the travel, I can go past 0 degrees, more on this in a minute.
When I tried to move it to 45, the bevel handle stops before it gets to 45, so I assume that I need to loosen what they call the 45 adjustment screw on the top of the table, the problem is that I cannot seem to loosen this screw. It is an allen head and it will not move, it feels like the wrench jumps rather than the screw loosening.
So, does anyone have any experience with this particular screw and know whether it just needs some penetrating oil, or might it have some lock tight on it and maybe need some heat to break it free?
Back to the 0 degree setting, should I adjust the 0 setting to be the max that the bevel handle travels, or do you guys make sure to set it back to 0 using the indicator or other means?

Lastly, if there are other table saw options that offer good quality for the dollar, feel free to point me to them as it is certainly not too late to return this saw and replace it with another.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you have the saw adjusted up against the stop you won't be able to turn it. I'm guessing this is the case because they don't put anything on them.
Thanks for the input, but no, it is not at the stop, I was trying to change the 45 screw when the blade was at 0. I just went out and looked at it again to make sure that I was not doing something like you suggested.
I looked under the table and the screws are just sticking out the bottom of the table.
The screw is still too tight to budge though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You want 0 degree to stop at 0 and not over travel it. It sounds like you have the wrong size or type of wrench on that Allen screw. You sure it's not a star type or something?
Thanks for the feedback on the 0 degree stop, I was thinking that was what I wanted to do.

I wish it was the wrong sized allen and that was the problem, but I don't think that is the case.
I think it is a 4mm fastener. I first tried one of my allen wrenches and when it did not want to work, I changed to the wrench that came with the saw. I cannot see any galling or rounding on either the wrench or the screw, but I sure cannot seem to get this thing to move.

Can the table take any heat, like a few seconds from a propane torch then trying to move the screw again?
 

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A six inch dial caliper can be used in place of a dial indicator for checking the fence alignment. They can be had for a few bucks these days rather than $150 & up for a digital as the case thirty years ago.

Some think the back of the fence should be .001" or .002" wider at the back of the blade for kick back reduction but I set mine the same front and back. On a long rip I think it makes for a more accurate rip.
 

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Thanks for the feedback on the 0 degree stop, I was thinking that was what I wanted to do.

I wish it was the wrong sized allen and that was the problem, but I don't think that is the case.
I think it is a 4mm fastener. I first tried one of my allen wrenches and when it did not want to work, I changed to the wrench that came with the saw. I cannot see any galling or rounding on either the wrench or the screw, but I sure cannot seem to get this thing to move.

Can the table take any heat, like a few seconds from a propane torch then trying to move the screw again?
I wouldn't do that. Sounds like the stops operate the same way as older c-man/ridgid TS's operated ( through the table top). I've never had them not adjust in or out. When this 45degree problem is resolved, i'd suggest backing them both out so they are not in contact with the arbor carriage. Sawdust can accumulate on the stop surfaces and easily throw the blade angles off by a couple of thousandths. I back mine out all the way and use a sixty digital angle cube.

Hope the OP gets this resolved. Almost sounds like it's over threaded onto a part of the adjusting screw that has no threads? Hence no back out? Have you tried driving it through the table top into the cabinet and then reinserting it from the top?
 

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John
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Thanks for the feedback on the 0 degree stop, I was thinking that was what I wanted to do.

I wish it was the wrong sized allen and that was the problem, but I don't think that is the case.
I think it is a 4mm fastener. I first tried one of my allen wrenches and when it did not want to work, I changed to the wrench that came with the saw. I cannot see any galling or rounding on either the wrench or the screw, but I sure cannot seem to get this thing to move.

Can the table take any heat, like a few seconds from a propane torch then trying to move the screw again?
Torch should not be an option!!!
I pulled up the parts explode looking for a locknut... no luck there but I did find the operator manual. Check page 46:

The adjustment screws must be below the saw table surface
so the workpiece doesn’t catch on uneven edges. If unable
to make this adjustment, take the product to an authorized
service center.

A statement like that in an operators manual normally says that it is a known problem. While it may be a PIA at the moment, I think you will be happier returning the thing for an exchange. If you fool with it to much you may void the warranty.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All,
Thanks for all of the feedback, really do appreciate it.
I knew that I should not heat it up, especially with a torch, but that was what was running through my mind last night since it was being a little difficult.

I had some obligations today, but finally had a chance to look at it again. Embarrassed to admit it but I had some hex sockets and did not see them in the socket drawer last night when I looked. Fortunately I did look again today BEFORE I went to buy some.
I was able to get them to loosen, they were loaded with lock tight. I was able to get them to adjust the 0 and 45 degree throws on the blade, but now I have another issue with this I can either have the bevel indicator register at 0 degrees or 45 degrees, but not both.
I am now beginning to get a little upset I realize this is not the end of the world, but it would really be nice to be able to dial in various bevels and have them at least be close to what I need them to be.
I could obviously make a new mark for the 0 or 45 and set the factory line to the other, but I would think that any bevel other than 0 or 45 would be inaccurate.

So, please let me know your thoughts, should I want/expect this bevel gauge/indicator to be at least close to accurate, or is that something that I should not expect at this price point?
Should I just purchase a digital bevel gauge (tiltbox or other) and use that to set the blade bevel?
Assuming that I decide this issue is unacceptable and return the saw, should I try another R4512 and hope it will be better, or are there other suggestions/recommendations for a table saw?

Thanks again.
 

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Maybe a touch of buyers remorse? I don't know much about these new saws so I looked up your 4512. If I was looking for a new saw that would be on my list for sure. I like the craftsman hybrid also but it costs more.
 

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John
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All,
Thanks for all of the feedback, really do appreciate it.
I knew that I should not heat it up, especially with a torch, but that was what was running through my mind last night since it was being a little difficult.

I had some obligations today, but finally had a chance to look at it again. Embarrassed to admit it but I had some hex sockets and did not see them in the socket drawer last night when I looked. Fortunately I did look again today BEFORE I went to buy some.
I was able to get them to loosen, they were loaded with lock tight. I was able to get them to adjust the 0 and 45 degree throws on the blade, but now I have another issue with this I can either have the bevel indicator register at 0 degrees or 45 degrees, but not both.
I am now beginning to get a little upset I realize this is not the end of the world, but it would really be nice to be able to dial in various bevels and have them at least be close to what I need them to be.
I could obviously make a new mark for the 0 or 45 and set the factory line to the other, but I would think that any bevel other than 0 or 45 would be inaccurate.

So, please let me know your thoughts, should I want/expect this bevel gauge/indicator to be at least close to accurate, or is that something that I should not expect at this price point?
Should I just purchase a digital bevel gauge (tiltbox or other) and use that to set the blade bevel?
Assuming that I decide this issue is unacceptable and return the saw, should I try another R4512 and hope it will be better, or are there other suggestions/recommendations for a table saw?

Thanks again.
I dunno, I haven't got much faith in any non-fixed stop and even those only after being checked. For setting bevels I use a digital angle cube if it has to be dead bang. If it doesn't need to be precise, the scales are usually close enough.
 

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Go to Amazon and buy a magnetic angle cube. Mine is a brand called iGaging. I think I might have paid 20 bucks for it. Its the only tool I use for setting angles. It takes only seconds to use it and its accurate to 100th of a degree. My indicaters on all my saws are wrong and I have no desire to adjust them.

Im sure some people will tell you that you dont need angle cubes and dial indicaters for woodwork, in fact, I know they will. I see it posted here all the time. I can tell you one thing for certain though. Before buying my cube, I was shopping for a new miter saw. No matter how much checking and adjusting I did, I could never cut perfect or even close miters. When my cube came in, I put it on my miter saw and my 45 degree stop was set at 44.85 degrees. My sqaures showed it was pretty true but the cube said different. I adjusted it to a perfect 45 degrees using the angle cube and now I get perfect miters!The only complaint I have is now I try and set up all my saws perfectly and that can get frusterating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
dandan111,
Haha, no buyers remorse here, I just want to make sure that my expectations are where they should be. I have a job site saw which is more accurate than this as far as the bevel indicator goes... well, at least the 0 and 45 indicators match where I have the stops set. That being said, the smaller saw has lower resolution on the bevel scale.
It really just appears that the scale (just a sticker really) was installed just a little too high, if I felt motivated, I could probably relocate it and be a little more happy.
I agree this saw is pretty much on a short list as far as features and price are concerned. Unfortunately there have been too many reports of alignment problems, some of which are reportedly still occurring. I am trying to be sure of my decision to purchase this saw, before I assemble it. I did not want to take the time to assemble it and then check the alignment only to find that I had a problem which needed to be returned.

jschaben,
Right now the bevel indicator is set to 45 degrees when the blade is set to 45. When I 0 the blade (using a square) the indicator shows about .75degrees, I just went to look at it as I thought it would be much more than that since it is between the 1st and 2nd marks, I had to take a close look at it to realize that the marks are supposed to represent .5 degree increments. This is not nearly as bad as I initially thought when taking quick looks. Initially I thought it was 2 or more degrees, and that I could not get it close enough, now I think I can split the difference and be pretty close.

jschaben and bassblaster,

I was already talking myself into buying an angle gauge, I have actually came close a couple of times, but have talked myself out of them somehow.
I will be getting one now.


Again thanks to all that have provided input on this, I do appreciate it.
 
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