BTW, more on topic, when he pushed the 1/2" wide piece of cardboard with another small piece of material, he created a concentrated force in the middle of the length ....not what would be happening during a resaw. In resawing the force is distributed over the entire height of the workpiece.... about 6'' - 10". Adequate beam strength to avoid deflection is still an issue, but wider bands, like 1" or 3/4", need greater tension to maintain the "beam" and that amount of tension may be beyond the ability of a 14" bandsaw.
Any pressure applied to the blade will cause it to deflect evenly on either side of the center of the area between the thrust bearings. That deflection may be miniscule and not detectable to the naked eye, but the maximum deflection will still be at the center between the thrust bearings. That is assuming the density of the board is consistent throughout the width. Matthias put his finger at the center of the cardboard to show an exaggerated version of the effect of applied pressure on the blade.
Rikon markets a bandsaw they say has a 14" resaw capacity. One would think they built it to handle the tension necessary for whatever is the proper blade to resaw a board that wide. So maybe you can get the tension necessary for a 1" blade from a 14" bandsaw. Matthias mentioned metal fatigue when placing a wide blade on a smaller wheel. Lenox makes a Flex Back blade that looks like it solves that problem.
The tech guy at Lenox didn't even flinch when recommending their 1" Woodmaster CT. All I told him was I had an 18" bandsaw and needed to resaw 8/4 sapele up to 9" wide. What I have is the same blade MiniMax uses when demoing their machines. I'm sure they want the best results when trying to sell their bandsaws. I've seen that blade in other manufacturer's demos. So at least one blade manufacturer and a few bandsaw manufacturers believe a 1" wide blade is the way to go when resawing wider boards.
For re-sawing I prefer a 1/4" blade. Less drag, less friction. Wide blades produce more friction which can cause all kinds of problems. In fact I have gone to just one type of band saw blade which for me has proven to be the best all around blade for everything I do on the band saw. I use my BS a lot re-sawing, ripping to width, cross cutting, curves, tenons etc. I hate changing blades and re-setting the guides so I buy only one type of blade 6 at a time, 1/4" 6 TPI hook tooth carbon steel. I tension the blade just a little more than the gauge indicates for the width. I run the blade until it breaks or I hit a nail or some such and then I just throw on another. These blades are also very inexpensive, $12 to $15 on the web.
If I remember correctly, Matthias said something about super sharp blades not being as much of a problem when resawing. So if you're looking at bandsaw blades being an expendable item, then maybe that works.
When I try to imagine what's going on inside the cut, based on what Matthias demonstrated in his video, I see a wider kerf allowing sawdust to get past the teeth and collect at the back of the blade, where there is nothing to eject the sawdust. A narrower kerf should reduce that.
I can fully understand shallow gullets loading up before they reach the bottom of the cut and, having no place to go, getting smashed in between the blade and wood. Mills have very wide blades with deep gullets that can only be achieved with less TPI.
At it's widest, there might be 6 teeth in contact with the log in the above picture. If you're resawing a 6" piece with a 4 TPI blade, you'll have 24 teeth contacting the wood. That would seem to place additional stress on the motor and the blade.
So it seems the people who do this for a living agree with Matthias. You need a wide blade with deep gullets to effectively resaw. The wider the resaw, the wider the blade and the deeper the gullet. The deeper the gullet, the less TPI.
I've gone through 6 or more Woodslicer blades. Those blades dulled so quickly I blamed everything but the blade. But in the end, the problem was always solved with a new blade. Once I set up the saw with the Woodmaster CT, I discovered what resawing is supposed to be.