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I found this table saw online that appears to have a lot of the features that I'm looking for (Thanks to knotscot for the wonderful guide.)

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/4199941211.html

I like the fact that the Grizzly G1011 is a belt drive cabinet saw and has the versatility to run at 110 and 220. All of that is perfect.

But am I going to regret buying a saw that only has 1 1/2hp? I was looking for a saw that I could use on hardwood flooring tasks, and to build cabinets, doors and furniture.

I'm brand new to woodworking but I have a number of projects that I must complete or my wife will kill me. Literally kill me. If I leave the house as it is for too long, and you don't see any new posts from me, you should send help to dig up the backyard. :icon_smile:

Thanks in advance for any help you all may be able to provide.
 

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Sawdust Creator
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Buy thin kerf blades and it's instantly the equivalent of a 30-40% power increase.

You'll have no problem with flooring or plywood. You may have difficulties with 2-3 inch thick stock, but nothing that can't be overcome by slowing down.
 

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Nope, I ran one for years and it did just fine. Sure, more motor will cut faster, take bigger bites, and so on....but we're hobbyists; doesn't make much difference. For what you outlined that saw will be more than capable.
 

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Ditto what others have said. Get the saw aligned well, and choose good blades that are suitable for the task. That saw has a good stout motor on it....the guts are actually really similar to some of the older PM's, Jets, Bridgewood, GI, and many others. That particular fence isn't awesome, but it'll do. Looks to be a very solid deal at $200 in that condition.
 

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I found this table saw online that appears to have a lot of the features that I'm looking for (Thanks to knotscot for the wonderful guide.)

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/tls/4199941211.html

I like the fact that the Grizzly G1011 is a belt drive cabinet saw

correction: the linked saw is a a contractor's saw. it has table, not cabinet, mounted trunions and it's motor is not enclosed within the saw base. rather, it hangs out the back like almost all older contractor saws did.

and has the versatility to run at 110 and 220. All of that is perfect.

But am I going to regret buying a saw that only has 1 1/2hp? I was looking for a saw that I could use on hardwood flooring tasks, and to build cabinets, doors and furniture.

set up properly with a sharp blade, there's little that saw won't handle in a hobbyist's shop.

I'm brand new to woodworking but I have a number of projects that I must complete or my wife will kill me. Literally kill me. If I leave the house as it is for too long, and you don't see any new posts from me, you should send help to dig up the backyard. :icon_smile:

Thanks in advance for any help you all may be able to provide.
what you'll probably regret more than a 1 1/2hp motor is the right tilt nature of that saw. more prone to kickbacks than left tilt saws, according to shopnotes magazine.
 

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A right-tilt is no more prone to kickbacks than a left-tilt as long as you don't tilt the blade toward the fence and run stock between them. Just do bevel cuts like that with the fence to the left of the blade.

Regarding the saw in question: If sometime down the road you decide you need more power, you may be able to do a motor swap.

Bill
 

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Unless you have to have it right now I'd keep looking and save up a bit more money for a nicer saw. I ran a quick national craigslist search and found a Grizzly 1023 with a Biesemeyer for $375.
 

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where's my table saw?
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I've never owned a right tilt

I have owned several table saws in the past 50 years, and still have most of them. They are all left tilt, so changing to a righty would be a relearning experience. I am right handed and a left tilt works best for me, because my strong hand is pushing the work. The work is on the left side of the fence, as is the blade. So most all the control of the work is done with my right hand, left hand may just get things started if at all.

So, based on your "handedness" you may not get along with a righty and you won't find this out until it's too late.
IF you never tilt the blade and leave it vertical, there will be no difference and you can locate the fence on the right of the blade just as you would on a lefty. But ..... a bevel cut will require you to locate the fence on the left of the blade to avoid trapping the work as dodgeboy77 suggested.

The left tilt has become the industry standard and it's difficult to find a newer right tilt saw these days. In my opinion that's because of the right handed majority of the population, but I could be wrong. :blink:

Starting out and having no prejudice or preference either way, it may not matter. But it may make a difference in resale as you have found a good saw at a low price in this case.

Me... ? I would wait for now and look for a left tilt and if necessary, pay extra for that feature. :yes:
 

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While the saw looks to be in good shape, it's over 20 years old. Personally, I don't like the grated tops, I prefer solid cast iron. If the saw was installed in a total surround, those tops could be removed.

It still has the original "jet rail" type fence system. As for the right/left tilt question, it's not that big of a deal. I've had both, and earned a living with them. You can get used to anything. An exception to that were my first two wives.

So, my take on this saw is that I would wait for a cabinet saw, or a contractors saw, with an updated fence system and solid tops.





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I'm more curious about your marriage than your table saw. What was the courtship like? Did you not see this coming? Or is it you that has changed? Have you gotten lazy?

:laughing:
 

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where's my table saw?
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his personal life would NOT revelant here

Start a new thread if you want to play psychologist or family counselor. It's easy to make an off hand comment and derail/hijack a thread "unintentionally" ...just sayin' :yes:
 

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Dude...calm down. I think it was a joke off the wife will kill him comment.
 

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I would hate the location of the on off switch. That being said if the saw runs good my onion is that it is probably worth what they are asking. As to the right and left thing, I have a Jet left tilt and a grizzly right tilt. I wanted another table saw to be able to leave a dado blade set up on it when I am building a set of cabinets and other such projects. I hate changing the blades back and forth. Also it is great when you don't have to move the fence and later have to remake something that I screwed up. Anyway back to the right left thing. My thinking was if I get a right tilt then I could cut bevels on the right side of the blade on my left tilt and opposite bevels on the left side of my right tilt. This has proven to be successful for me. I also thought that it would be a big adjustment for me since I am right handed. At first it felt very foreign to stand on the right side of the blade and feed sheet goods through, but after a month or two of use I hardly even notice. I can honestly say that I will go to whatever saw has the normal blade on it, or more likely, what ever saw does not have 10,000 things sitting on the outfeed table.
 

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where's my table saw?
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you just made my point Dude

Dude...calm down. I think it was a joke off the wife will kill him comment.
it's already started. :thumbdown: I know exactly why...I said "unintentionally" ....duh.

I will not play the Dr Phil game and offer only relevant advice as I did above.
 

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Aw man, why can't I find saws looking like that for $200? Has the thing EVER been used? LOL
 

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I can honestly say that I will go to whatever saw has the normal blade on it, or more likely, what ever saw does not have 10,000 things sitting on the outfeed table.
:laughing::laughing::laughing::yes:, Now there's an excuse to have multiple table saws! Extra storage....
 

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I see around 200 bucks. The alternative is a craftsman that's out there everywhere for around 150....I'd say the grizzly has a useable fence so no upgrade needed

200 seems fair enough.
 
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